Originally Posted by
Doug Fattic
You mentioned using a 7sp internally geared hub? The ones made by Shimano have an axle width between nuts as 130mm. The axle diameter is 10mm. This has been the standard forever. Their 8 speed model is 132mm. Some other brands have a width of 135. Before you make your frame, you should decide on what hub you are going to use. IGH need a non-turn washer to keep the hub from rotating. These non-turn washers are designed for dropouts with 10 mm of slot width.
Most frame builders use a "true" or "builder's wheel" to check that a wheel centers during the building process. This is a good reason to get your rear wheel before you begin building the frame. I never trust my expensive fixturing to get that just right.
Like Andy said, brazing the chain stays to the BB wheel usually closes in the space between the dropouts by at least a couple of mms.
Is this frame you are making going to be a city type of bike with upright handlebars?
To all, thank you very much for all input/help. Much appreciated. Doug, yep - city bike (Electric) actually with crank engine and old school handlebars. The inspiration for the design is the schwinn bikes. My battery will be hidden inside the «tank».
So, next step for the project is to find suitable wheels. A ton to choose from and a bit confusing for an amature but i’ll manage. I do aim for a 28 or 29 inch size and 2.1-2.5 width. I have enough space.