Badger6

This is exactly what I am talking about...

You provide a meaningless number about your inseam...how about you provide a metric or imperial length of your inseam length? That would be a really useful thing to know, to get a baseline sizing, not a percentage. If you walked into my shop and said, "Hey, I have a wonky inseam, it is 46% of my total height," I'd just look at you and say, "Okay." And then the conversation would turn to "give me a number I can use to relate to a bike frame size." Like, how long is your inseam standing on the floor barefoot? I don't actually own or work in a shop, but you get the idea, I think.

Your approach to the bar position is disastrous as well, but you've already been given solid advice on getting it right, so I will summarize in a simple to follow step-by-step: (1) by changing out stems, and removing/adding spacers if necessary, find the right position for the bar tops, then (2) evaluate the drops, if they still don't work for you, consider a different bar with a different bend and drop. Oh, and rotate the bar so the tops make a level (0° deflection from the ground) transition to the hood. You can adjust this a bit later if necessary, but I strongly advise against it. And, level your saddle, if you need a little bit of tilt on it, fine, tip the nose down 2-3°, which is not very much.

You need to stop this changing everything all at once business. Get methodical, one thing at a time in a logical order (most of your issues would be solved by figuring out: saddle position relative to crank axle (or pedal top), then bar tops relative to saddle, then make minor tweaks from there as you ride and figure out what works better). And if the bike doesn't fit, get a new bike. If you don't know what size bike you need (which seems like a real possibility), go talk to a shop. And DO NOT under any conditions start prattling on about your inseam percentage relative to height and short torsos with orangutan arms.