Originally Posted by
rch427
Yeah, the worst-case scenario would be re-selling it, but the trouble is that in order to find out if it works out, or doesn't, I'd first have to build the frame up with the correct period components, and that would run another $1,000-1,200. While I wouldn't be throwing that away if I re-sold the frame, it would tie that investment up until I somehow found another frame I was interested in putting them on.
Because of the time and place when this framebuilder was working, I don't think I've ever seen any example from them that was taller than 59 or 60cm.
And why do you need period correct components? Ok, I get it that it is from a famous Italian frame builder and therefore has some pedigree to it. That majority of the responses here encouraging you to “don’t do it” might just be blocking you from making some discoveries about pushing the limits of bike fit, handling characteristics, and individualized notions of a compact aesthetic.
I have a few questions for you in no particular order: 1) what is the height of the head tube? 2) is your torso length proportional for the typical 6’2” person? 3) what seatpost size does your frame take? 4) what handlebars were you proposing to use again? 5) what is the spacing of the rear dropouts? 6) why are you smitten with the concept of running a 3-speed hub again? 7) what type of riding do you do? Is there a niche that this undersized bike could be assigned to that fulfills some specialty function for you?
I think classic and vintage folks do far too few “resto-mods”. I say
think modern. You’ve got a too small grail frame. I say make lemonade out of lemons. To me this is a perfect excuse to do a a super-climber/super-descender type build. Remember, extra long stems steer slower in tight quarters but the flip side is that they are stable as hell on fast descents. If your seatpost diameter happens to be 27.2 you have a great opportunity to run a shock absorbing modern carbon post in, say - a 350mm length up near the limit line where it will give max flexion for a dampened ride quality. You could get a Ritchey Flexlogic post with maximum setback in a 27.2 that would pair well with slightly upsized crank arm length to make for correct leg extension for your inseam
and prompt you to have huge amounts of leg clearance for out of the saddle climbing while also permitting a Greg Lemond-esque scootched far back pedal/femur angle that makes seated climbing feel like you’re cheating thanks to the shifted over the rear wheel dynamics of the thing. Skip the dorky Nitto Technomic stem in favor of a 13 or even 14cm chromoly Salsa or Ritchey 5 degree upward rise stem that accepts either 25.4 or 26.0 shallow drop road or gravel handlebars. In this configuration, you might even find that your undersized frame is now a bit
too big! You could also run a nitto quill adapter with a threadless stem that is
not ugly. Lots of choices I would think that would look cool as h*ll if you think outside the box a bit.
I know it isn’t squarely in the C&V era but my Veritas titanium build implemented precisely what I proposed above.
I’m 6’ tall with a 33.5” cycling inseam. This compact frame has a 52 cm center to center top tube and a 42 cm seat tube with sloping geometry. The head tube is ~139mm tall. Yes, the bars are shallow drop and the Ritchey 13cm stem has a 5 degree upward rise but even with a bad back I can ride the drops for long distances in comfort. This type of fit is not for everyone I get that. This is my #2 road bike but I love it.