There might be some curious people reading this thread that want to learn more about Rohloffs. And the OP might still pursue getting one. On the touring board I wrote up a more lengthy post a few years ago that compares my Rohloff experience with derailleur bikes for touring, that link is here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1...l#post21144689
Assuming you buy a chain drive bike with the stock 16T Rohloff sprocket, you will have to decide what chainring size you want for setting your gearing range. For riding around home, I use a 44T chainring, that gives me a nice range from first gear up to 14th gear. But when I take the bike on a tour and put a lot of weight on it, I need lower gearing for hill climbing, I use a 36T chainring for that (and four less chain links). My frame was designed for a Rohloff, it has an eccentric bottom bracket for chain tension adjustment. If you wanted a belt, you need a frame that has the means to install a belt, usually that is a split seat stay.
I followed the advice at this link, I cut a little notch in one tooth on the chainring and on the sprocket, I am careful to always put a chainlink with outer plates on those notched teeth. When my sprocket gets quite worn, I can visually see that every other tooth has more wear than the other teeth because of the way that every other link on a chain elongates with wear.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html
I built up my Rohloff bike in 2013. And I think I tried at least three different places to mount my shifter before I settled on the HubBub adapter. If you are using drop bars and I assume the vast majority of people would want drop bars for a rando bike, you will have to decide where you want your shifter.
https://www.cyclingabout.com/rohloff...op-handlebars/
I picked the HubBub adapter because I wanted my shifter out to the side where I could have my hand on the shifter while I also had some leverage for steering, I did not want my shifter close to the steering axis. I learned that when I was going up some steep hills in rough 4X4 terrain in the middle of Iceland with a heavily loaded touring bike and there were too many times when I wanted to downshift further but my shifter was not located where I had good ability to steer on a rocky road, and part way up one of those hills I decided I would buy the HubBub Adapter when I got home. I have been using bar end shifters on some of my bikes for years, so putting the shifter on the right side bar end made perfect sense to me, as on a couple of my bikes my shifter is located there too. But, for rando use, leverage for steering is not a priority so you might want something else. The stock Rohloff shifter is a twist grip shifter. The shifter on the right bar end using the HubBub adapter below.
The hub can put a lot of torque on the frame, you need a way to lock the axle so it will not spin in the dropouts and you need a frame strong enough so that the frame does not break. Mine has an extra long non-driveside dropout slot and there is a knob on the hub that sits in that slot, the dropout takes that torque. Different frame designers use different methods.
Some people worry that it will be hard to remove a wheel, I find that it comes out and goes back in with about the same effort and time spent with a derailleur bike. But frames with horizontal dropouts can be more time consuming.
Maintenance is very simple. Periodic oil changes is about it, and occasionally flipping or changing sprockets.
More on oil changes here, but where they suggest a cup of tea, I prefer a glass of red wine:
There are two different cable systems, my bike uses the EX box. The other one uses an internal gear cable. The bike frame cable guides were likely installed with the type of cabling that the frame designer had in mind if the frame was designed for a Rohloff.
And if you can't figure out why I bought a Rohloff in the first place, I built up that bike to go to places like this.
