I'm a stubborn, almost old man, but thanks for all the encouragement and discouragement. Whilst I generally agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it, I know this mechanism can be rebuilt to almost new (in better operation than it current was/is now). I got it broken free, glad I tried one more time w/o putting more heat because there IS plastic, specifically what looks to be like the cross-section cut of a schedule 80 grey electrical pipe as shims. The first shim, behind the smallest cog is AL and it's actually extruded/drawn AL bent around a die (you can see the union where the two ends come together). The second/third/forth shims are all plastic where the second shim is now pretty much destroyed due to my slight heating yesterday (not level thickness so that MUST be replaced). I'm going to A. Look for a used one (probably a .00003% chance of finding one. B. 3D print a couple out of PETG and pick the one closest yet a wee-bit bigger in all dimensions and then wet sand/hone to the correct dimension. C. Or, find out if some schedule 40 6061 AL pipe might fit the bill and have a friend machine all AL ones for me. I also inscribed with a Dremel (small hash) on the free wheel housing notches and the cogs so they go back in the exact same spot, even though they are not keyed except for the largest cog. I know, attention to detail I guess. Finally, here in lies the problem with internet information. I don't recall seeing (even on all of Sir Sheldon Brown's articles on free wheels) any caution about heating cogs and destroying plastic shims etc. So let it be known, if you want to take apart an older 80's Suntour 6sp free wheel like I have shown in this post, then do NOT use heat.
