Thread: FD won't shift
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Old 11-24-22, 01:05 AM
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urbanknight
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
Presumably, this is a road bike. Yes or no? FSA Gossamer came in two spindle configurations, 24 mm and 30 mm. Which one is it? Bearings for these spindles can be either press-fit or outboard threaded. If it's outboard threaded, is it an FSA bearing or Shimano, because the widths are different.
It's a gravel bike, the first I have ever owned so I don't know much about how they are configured. 30mm spindle with FSA outboard bearings.

Originally Posted by oldbobcat
The purpose of chain line is to establish a kind of neutrality over gear combinations. The innermost and outermost rear cogs need to be equally accessible from the inner and outer front chainrings. The most straightforward way to check this is to lay a yardstick over the space between the chainrings (presuming it's a double) and cog #6 (presuming it's an 11-speed). The point is, you want midpoints. The yardstick should be parallel to the center line of the bike. If it isn't, you have to fiddle with the shims. On a 130 mm axle, the 11-speed cassette moves the chain line about 0.95 mm inboard from 10-speed. It might just be possible that this crank wasn't meant to be used with 11-speed systems. I can't tell because you haven't told us about the bike or shown us photos. But establish the chain line first.
The shifting works very well with the stacked spacers on the NDS, but you may be on to something here. It's a 135mm rear spacing, and maybe the aftermarket crank is meant for 142mm?

Originally Posted by oldbobcat
Also be aware that Shimano 11-speed front derailleurs use virtually no slack in the cable, unlike previous 8-, 9-, and 10-speed generations. Then there is the matter of the converter pin, whose position is determined by the pull angle of the cable as it emerges behind the bottom bracket.
Now that is something I was unaware of and need to read up on.
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