Jax Rhapsody

I like to coast and although some coasters coast better than others, sometimes I back pedal while doing so, even ever so unintentionally slightly, I might engage the brake, or back pedal for other reasons.
They often have large sprockets on them, My Diamondback Drifter¹ had a sprocket bigger than what you find on walmart cruisers. It was a 22 or 25 I think. Slows them down. I'm not fond of cruisers with wrap around chain gaurds either, because it necetates a smaller crank chainring Like the Next LaJolla, or Kent Onyx. But I swap them out anyway, but a bike like a cranbrook will have a conventional 38-40 tooth, and are faster bikes.

I like going fast and a coaster on say a Cranbrook or Nel Lusso is barely adequate at stopping those bikes at their top speeds with factory 40/17 gearing. The braking distance on one going 12mph is just a few feet shorter than full lock, with level pedals.
Ultimately the reason is braking power is dependant on pedal position. Pedals at 3&9 o'clock, and 2&8 o'clock are like the most optimum pedal positions for braking. Pedal orientation is an extra step I'd rather not have in planned braking. Anybody trained to drive a commercial vehicle knows total stopping distance is; perception distance, reaction distance, brake lag, and stopping distance. In case of a coaster brake stopping without full lock-up; pedal position screws up brake lag, stopping distance, and reaction distance. How quick the brake engages and how hard it stops depends on pedal position. Even if you're going slow, emergency braking might not be there, especially if something jumps out at you, and you happen to be at 12&6 o'clock or 1&7 o'clock, and need to stop under 8'. I don't want to think too much about braking to brake, just brake when I need to with however much power I put in to it.

Plus I like going fast. I had a cruiser once that had a 52/62 crank I found on a Murray MTB. I ran it on the 62t chainring. Full speed stopping was some planning.

I've never cold set a frame, I've always just forced a frame to bend just enough to drop in a wider hub. Only once I had to physically bend the rear triangle to get it done. I just stepped on one side and pulled.