Two thoughts on Simple Green. 1) the factory grease is deep inside the rollers and hardest places to get lubrication to. We have no means to get anything like it that deep. Simple Green strips it out. And 2) long soaks of Simple Green with certain high strength steel has been known to compromise its strength and lead to failures in use. Chains soaked in SG have broken while riding. Not a metallurgist so I do not know the mechanism and Simple Green wasn't around when I took Materials and Metallurgy a long time ago.
I do know that high strength steels can be compromised and fail when least expected; perhaps years and thousands of miles later. I rode a compromised Columbus SL fork down 2000' on my fix gear 3 years and 8000 miles after the freshly built fork was nickle plated but not heat treated. Plater knew it had to get the $60 heat treat but didn't say anything. I arrived home on a bike that shuddered wildly every time I touch the front brake. Tried spreading the fork with my hands. I'm barely strong enough to permanently spread a not so strong fork of ordinary steel. The right blade immediately bent at at the crown 30 degrees. There was a crack 2/3s the way around. Another on the other blade of 1/3.
The little "moral" of this story - that bike won my heart over that day. A "mountain" fix gear, designed to be able to re-cog to any available fix gear cog without messing with chain length. I was doing that ride to prepare for its second Cycle Oregon in very hilly country. Got to the ride high point, screwed on the tiny cog for all the descending and could not get the chain to behave. It kept going tight, then loose. Finally set it too loose and just babied the bike down using plenty of both brakes, never going fast at all and just cruising through the fun, fast turns. One of those turns I loved to come into fast and brake hard at the last second and fly around on its banking. Would have folded that fork instantly.
That mechanical was really dumb. I run a Miche track hub. Threading for the lockring is Italian standard, not English/ISO. Bigger diameter. On ISO track hubs, a special bell-shaped lockring is needed to use a 12 tooth cog or the chain will sit on the lockring (and occasionally fall into the spanner holes). Well, on a Miche hub, the 13 tooth needs that same bell lockring. That was why my chain misbehaved. The bike (Jessica J from conception) waited until I was going to have this learning experience to have the failure we doomed it with when the fork was built, plated and not heat treated. And like I said above, won a big piece of my heart.
Back to chains - I no longer take them off and clean them. I wipe them clean running them trough a rag. (Left pinkie around the seatstay, fingers and rag arond the chain and I pedal the bike with my right. Sometimes take a q-tip and clean between the rollers but not usually. Wipe ring and cog teeth clean with a rad. Cassettes with a sock. Nothing fancy. Drip TriFlo or the wet MTB Finish Line onto each roller/inner/outer plate, spin the cranks a few times, do another wipe and call it good.