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Old 12-02-21, 12:48 PM
  #110  
mprince
Dont fix whats not broken
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 302

Bikes: Steelman Stage Race, Dura-Ace 9s

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Mr "M-word" (eww) - you are going about this in a very haphazard manner. Not sure why you think setting your bike up is paint by (your) numbers with questionable math and frame measurements, since as you say all road bike geometry is pretty much the same. There are three basic things to get right in fit, IMO in a pretty specific order

1. Saddle position/height - this has nothing to do with your reach to the bars, it is about getting your lower half set up in an efficient biomechanical position. This is the foundation, and there is old-school math (.883 or .885 or 1.095 x cycling inseam) as well as general rules of thumb (KOPS, degree of knee bend, heel on pedal, etc) to help with this. My advice is to pick one method and set as your baseline. And the saddle should be level to a couple of degrees (at most) tilted down. Start here and don't change this for a bit.
2. Cleat setup - this does not apply to you with those goofy pedals, not sure why you are so obsessed with the minutia of fitting with pedals like that, but whatever.
3. Bar/stem setup - without the proper foundation (saddle position) at best you are guessing if you jump into this too early

Once you get a baseline across all of the above, then start making small adjustments over several rides, never changing more than one thing at a time.

Those are the "what", I am not going to tell you the "how", as you don't take constructive advice too well. It would be interesting to know how you arrived at the saddle position per your most recent photos...
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Last edited by mprince; 12-02-21 at 12:53 PM.
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