Pressing in the bearings was nerve-wracking, as it's not something I have a lot of experience with. I used a board with a hole in it, a 10mm QR axle, some washers, and axle nuts to pull the bearings through. Chilling the bearings in the freezer for a few hours and applying a light coating of Tri-Flow to the bearing seats in the hub shell seemed to help.
I don't have any pictures of reassembling the spacers and plug wiring for the DS, largely because I used dabs of rubber cement around the wires and needed to work quickly before it dried.
Pressing on the end caps was nerve-wracking as well. They were understandably a tight fit, and I struggled to keep everything aligned in the C clamp while applying force. Shutter Precision no doubt has nice jigs for doing this.
While doing this, I also needed to make sure that I pressed the hub shell far enough onto the axle so that it would hold the magnet in the right spot. Too far to either side, and the magnet would drag against the coil. So I made sure the magnet was stuck to the DS coil, and pressed until a "pop" indicated that I had pushed it just past center and made it jump to the other side. Releasing the pressure from the vise allowed the hub shell to move back slightly.
At this point, I stuck on the NDS portion of the hub shell and squeezed around it with fingertips to make sure it was seated evenly. It's a close fit, but not a tight one. Good thing, because I needed to twist it slightly to make sure the spoke holes were staggered correctly.
Finally, I pressed on the NDS end cap. Because it's the longer one, it was easier to align before getting to the press-fit portion.
What a relief it was that when I turned the axle with my fingertips, the "notchy" dynohub feeling had returned, and there were no sounds of metal rubbing. I threw the partial wheel in the stand and hooked up my multimeter to check if it still made juice:
Whew! All that remained was to reinstall the NDS spokes and true the wheel. I couldn't resist trying a "trick" mod of using red aluminum nipples while I was at it. The spokes are long enough to extend past the screwdriver flats, so I'll see how they hold up. I've only used brass nipples up until now.
At this point, I think I'm done. It seems that Shutter Precision relied on the press-fit between the hub shells and the magnet disc to seal the hub at the joint, but since I've been in there I'm considering running a thin glue (or something) into the parting line for a little insurance.
Hope this was illuminating!