[QUOTE=cyccommute;22786282]No, they aren’t. Use better cables. Use better housing. As well as never having had brakes freeze, I’ve never had a cable corrode. It’s not just “a matter of time”. It’s a poor mechanic indeed that blames his tools.
And here's me thinking you were a chemist. Are the cables used in bicycles in fact totally impervious to corrosion?
You have certainly implied that brake cable freeze is a very common occurrence. Many others…including myself…have pointed out that they ride in bad winter weather and have never experienced a brake cable freezing.
Used to be relatively common where I live. But nowadays most people using disc brakes tend to use hydraulics.
I didn't have those issues when I lived up north where I got really bad winter weather. But it was colder and drier.
Quit moving the goal posts. In your earlier statements you said that a brake bleed is easier than changing a brake cable. Your “bubble bleed for shortening a hose” is the equivalent of cutting off the end of a cable. And I can’t think of any “minor adjustment” on a hydraulic system that would introduce air. There’s nothing to “adjust”. Even replacing pads wouldn’t open the system.
What the...? If you invent wacky scenarios out of thin air with no prior input from me and I refute you by explaining what are the situations where a bubble bleed is necessary, how is that moving the goalposts? The only goalpost that could have moved was the one you invented in bad faith with malicious inventive misreading of my comment.
But I know you were really proud of your "gotcha!" moment.
Anyway the adjustments where air might be introduced are adjusting the cable angle in the caliper via the banjo bolt or adjusting the hose twist in the lever via the hose bolt.
You should get your basics together.
The procedures I see on bleeding mineral oil brakes start with forcing the old oil out from the caliper with a syringe. Fresh oil is pushed up from the bottom so as to displace air in the easiest direction. After the old oil is displaced, oil is pumped through the system from the top but it isn’t gravity feed. Swapping hoses is going to leave you with a hose that is completely empty…i.e. full of air…so a simple “gravity bleed” isn’t going to get the air out.
You can do it that way. If you like wasting time. Gravity bleeding gets the air out just fine. Google the shimano funnel.
Again, This is basic stuff. I know you don't have hydraulic brakes and thus don't have a clue how to service them but acting like a master on the subject is just embarrassing.
As to tools, you are again misrepresenting the hydraulic system. To be fair you are missing the inner cable for the cable system but if you are changing hoses for the hydraulic system you have to add
4mm hex
2.5mm hex
open end wrench for the bleed port
mineral oil
barbs
olives
brake bleed kit which contains 5 to 6 more tools
hose for the bleed port
something to catch oil in
a whole bunch of rags
Your tool kit is far from complete.
Barbs, olives, oil and hose are as much tools as cables are. If you remember I also mentioned the bleed. Gravity bleeding requires the funnel and a piece of hose. As tools.
No, I don’t mash housing with diagonal cutters. I do cut them with cable cutters and grind the end or just make a good blunt cut. But cable cutters are general tools that are used cables like derailer cable and cable housing. A bleed kit costs about the same as a set of good cable cutters and only has one use.
Cable cutters are pretty rare for someone not wrenching bikes. Also again, the funnel. I think thats like ten bucks.
Stuff gets misplaced all the time. If you are trying to fill a 1L vessel 25ml at a time, that’s 40 brake bleeds. I’ll agree that brake bleeds don’t need to be done all that often so it would take years to fill a 1L vessel…perhaps decades…in a home setting.
personally I tend not to misplace hazardous materials. But that's just me.
Just about any of them. You could pull the pads out of an Avid BB7. There’s a tab that extends outside the caliper body. It’s not easy but removing the pads from a hydraulic system without removing the wheel is equally as difficult. What hydraulics can you remove the pads without removing the wheel? More importantly, why would you want to.
All deore and higher shimanos, all road shimanos, all sram, all hopes, all higher end tektro and trp, all trickstuff, all maguras. I mean I could keep going but every mid and higher hydro caliper allows for hot swapping pads. So you can pull them out from the top side of the caliper.
You're right. Swapping BB7 pads without taking the wheel out is difficult because it's not really possible. The spring is in the way like in all mechanical calipers. And taking them out from the intended direction from the bottom when the wheel is in is just idiotic.
No, I haven’t. I’ve never even seen a broken mechanical caliper and I’ve seen hundreds of them from high end to the worst possible copies of the Avid BB5. I’ve never even seen on where the caliper was frozen from corrosion. They are incredibly robust.
indeed. And so are current hydraulic calipers.
It’s not that the topic is “precious” to me but that you are misrepresenting hydraulics. The brakes are not simple. They require maintenance that mechanicals don’t. They have complicated procedures for bleeding them. Look at the shop rates for a brake bleed ($30 to $100, depending on the system) compared to roughly $20 for cable and housing replacement.
I suppose I could ask my LBS about how much bleeding is but I doubt it's any more than cable swapping.
Please read what you quoted. It’s right there. I’ve ridden in just about every weather condition imaginable up to and including hail storms. I’ve ridden…and crashed…in more freezing drizzle than any sane (and intelligent person) would.
Ie. You ride occasionally in a relatively arid environment. When you start riding daily, get back to me.
No, I don’t check my brakes before I go out because I don’t put bikes away if something is wrong with it. I fix problems while I’m thinking about them. If there is something that I can’t fix right away because I don’t have the parts, I choose another bike. I have many more than one.
I am not surprised. Personally I always give my brakes a good squeeze before I set out just to make sure everything works as intended.
How do you get “wet slush all over” the bike? Slush on the lower part of the bike, I can see but how do you throw slush up on the brake cables? Most all of the bikes that I own have cables that run on the top tube or directly from the lever to the caliper along the fork. I have had derailer cables freeze up but most of the bikes I use for winter now have the derailer cables running along the top tube as well. I haven’t had a derailer cable freeze up on those either.
And you've ridden in all sorts of conditions? Right right...
Are SRAM brakes not modern? They are sold now. And not all brakes sold today (or within the last 10 years) are Shimano nor mineral oil brakes. The bleed procedure for DOT brakes is pretty much the same for all DOT fluid brakes. But, again, my objection isn’t (necessarily) to the brakes themselves but to your representation of them as some how much easier to work on than cable systems. I’ve done bleeds on DOT brakes, including SRAM, and on mineral brakes. Neither one is a simple procedure and far more complicated than replacing a cable and housing.
And with that you've demonstrated what I suspected from the start. Your reading comprehension is at such a level that continuing is pointless. You either misunderstand and/or misinterpret maliciously. I suspect it's the latter.