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Old 03-01-22, 11:14 AM
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79pmooney
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,909

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

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I had a ~1980 Japanese built Schwinn that made a super fix gear. I picked the frame up cheap, minus fork, from the local bike shop I'd been in many times after I wrecked my fix gear. (Doored.) The Schwinn had been hit by a car. Rear triangle pushed far to the side. I straightened it and brush painted it black with epoxy, threw the part on from my previous bike and rode it until it was stolen in a college town. Loved the ride. Never noticed the model. Probably a "Sport something". It wasn't high end and feather light but it did (clearly) have butted main tubes and probably not cro-mo stays but better quality hi-ten. Workmanship wasn't spectacular but was very good. Quality dropouts - nice on fix gear though not essential.

I am one who would far rather have horizontal road dropouts than the open-to-the-back track ends. Much easier to deal with when removing the wheel. My fix gears are all road bikes and flats happen out on the on road. Sometimes at night, sometimes in the rain ... For commuters and other fix gears where you are not changing cogs, road dropouts with the locating screws allow you to dial in chain tension. Now, road wheel insertions in non-optimum light conditions can be done fast with correct chain slack and no brains or judgement is required. (If you live car-free and your fix gear is your car - as mine was for decades - those flats and wheel insertions happen when the judgement and brains got left at home.).
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