OP needs to post pics of what he has so we can get the right info. Like thru axels are a no go. I use nutted plates and the long arm brace that gets slagged for no reason. I do agree that those 2 hose clamps for the brace QR is really dumb. I made a strap like on SA bikes and use a 6 mm bolt, not difficult to unscrew at all.
No doubt there's easier ways to make one, like tig welding some thin steel or just having a one piece partial shell. I'll be doing this for the Simcoe roadster I bought last year. It came with an alu one, but I think I can make one way better.
This case took me all summer to do in at least 12 steps needing 2 days for epoxy setting each step. I doubt anybody else has the patience to do all this. LOL. I made the inside first.
I goofed both pieces the first try. One too bulky then the cover I thought I needed to chop a cutout to get in on, wrong. I still didn't get it perfect, The top should of had more arch and the bottom less. The chain bangs when too loose. It is an echo chamber as well. LOL.
First step is cutting a 1" piece of styrofoam to form. Then 3 layers of CF, the middle where to crank goes needs to be pushed in. Then whittle down the edges, sand out wrinkles and try to get a smooth finish layer. Then epoxy glued the thin metal strips and hours filing them down perfect. You have to make sure to angle it a bit for the cover to go on. Finding a place for the mounting bolts is another bother. Very complicated. The end cap was done last, maybe could be used without. It's attached to my DIY chain tugger. All this adds to flat fixing time.
The hole by the crank is so big because the arm had a big stump. So I later got a slimmer Sugino crank.
CF is $40 for 1 meter x 48 or 54" wide.
No doubt my heavyweight is the most complicated ever made. LOL. Most of it took 3 changes before getting it finalized, disc mount and all.
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Also look at how I mounted the shifter pointing up on the TT. FAR better than anywhere else. I can turn it with either hand. NO cable flop, zero chance for damage.
