Originally Posted by
ivane07
Hey all! First post here.
Some stats:
1.71m, riding a 52 Specialized Allez Elite 2018
After injuring myself on a bike that's too big (I know) I replaced it with a 52 Allez Elite and, following advice, got a bike fir right away. Now, I know that size charts are only a reference and a professional fit can throw that off. But according to the Specialized I should be on the top end of a 52 or a low end of a 54, which is great, so I sized down to a 52.
I book my appointment at my country's biggest LBS (by far) only to be recommended a size 49 (I don't mind) but with a 60mm stem.
I don't think a 60mm stem belongs on an adult road bike?
Now, I know that proportions matter a lot in bike fitting. But I'd have to have some sort of abnormality (T-Rex arms) to need a 60mm stem on a size 49 bike @1.72. The fitter was adamant it was okay and that he has fitted a lot of 60mm stems.
It left me wondering what size of bike would I need to use a normal (90mm-100mm) stem. A size 44? A kids bike?
Now my handling is severly impacted with the 70mm stem he fitted me on my 52 (because I complained) and riding no handed is very scary.
Note: he also adjusted my saddle for reach. Also said that if I could see my front hub that was "perfect". I though the general rule of thumb was the opposite?
Any comments welcome.
OK, everything else aside - you're on the bike you're on... so the idea is to make it fit.
1st thing is to get the saddle position in a good spot for you - height and saddle setback. I'm not gonna go into 'How' - there are a ton of references out there. But once you get height within 4-5mm or so, the saddle setback decides everything else. It's NOT adjusted to find the best 'reach' - reach and 'Drop', bar rotation is adjusted once the saddle is set.
if you already had a saddle 'setback' on a prior bike - I would start with that - it may be way off, but your knees/legs/muscles would be accustomed - especially if you're a frequent rider (3-5+ 1hr+ rides a week or more...) Then do adjustments in 1 cm increments so you don;t screw up your knees/muscles - DON'T DO Metric Centuries or longer rides after making an adjustment - give legs some time to adjust (4-5 rides min...). most common setback measure is to measure distance saddle nose to center of bottom bracket via vertical plumb line - drop plumb line from seat nose - measure horizontal. THIS ASSUMES some std saddle Dims - 270-275 saddle length, key is where you actually sit - where sitzbones are placed on saddle ... for me that's 220 from nose approx +-2-3mm. KEY - make sure bike is LEVEL when you measure and adjust saddle setback - you'd be surprised at how many floors are way off 'level' !!!
THEN after saddle position - you work on reach/drop - that then depends on how much 'lean' you prefer in the most used 'position/posture', for many riders that's hands on hoods.
now my litany for 'posture' - arms bent at elbows, elbows tucked close to torso (as comfortable, for all of this), shoulders dropped not held up near ears - NOT straight arming or A-Framing arms and body !!!
start with whatever Stem length you have/like - ride that, then adjust as to what you might wish - more aero or more upright. A lot depends on your torso core/hip/and back strength AND how much mass you're carrying in your torso and your FLEXIBILTY... some easily go forward, others are challenged...
When I help someone adjust their 'fit/position', there are always objectives stated before! Then we work from saddle and cleat position 1st! Ride for some days, then work on bar/stem.
The idea is also to get a good balance which allows the least fatigue, best power, least chance of focused injury (hands-carpal tunnel, knees, hips etc...)
And it always means min. of 2 or more sessions - first saddle, then stem - often that will take additional changes...
Saddle is not adjusted to create a 'reach', your reach is adjusted after you find a good saddle setup. This, itself has many contentious disagreements - but once you have overall setup completed, you might find you have a very light touch on the bars most of the time - and this is often independent of the amount of body lean in a 'position'.
Given your Height, and assuming some median human proportions, a saddle setback of 6 to 6.5 cm would be a reasonable start point. Could easily go greater - likely not less...
But then, there are plenty of riders (road bike) who ride with less - much harder on the knees, patella, meniscus...
OLD SCHOOL BS =
if I could see my front hub that was "perfect" or the opposite " Hub view hidden behind Bars" . Vast majority of riders will be all over the place on where they see the Frt hub. Body proportions and ultimate preferred 'posture' will decide what you see...
If this fitter didn't ask a bunch of questions regarding what you'd like to achieve, Qs about yourself and how, why you ride, and what you have been riding (and current posture); then he didn;t do the home work.
good luck
let us know how you fair...
remember this is just an outline ! internet fitting is impossible. obviously even fitting in meat space often doesn;t seem to work.
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT : stem length has a great effect on perceived 'stability' of the front end. short stem will feel more 'twitchy' , longer stem will feel more 'directional/stable'.
As speed increases, small changes in your 'steering' can have greater effects - think riding downhill at 30+ mph... most riders are surprised how 'twithcy' a bike becomes at higher speeds - often that due to their own steering/arm instabilities.... Being stretched too far is also an issue - there's a 'sweet spot' for most riders.
EDIT2: You don;t happen to be in Barcelona, Espana area ??? LOL!