A sharpend spoke is a very handy tool for just about anything, put a 90* bend in it and it works well for removing things such bar plugs located in your bars and bearings that have rolled into the middle of your hub.
When un-bending your bent derailer hanger leave the derailer on so the threads don't get mishapen, then put an allen wrenh in the bolt, this gives you 2 levers to ebnd carefully with (wrench and derailer cage).
Your pedals and BB are opposite threads for each side to prevent forces of nature from ruining your bike, your crank arm bolts are not opposite threaded, that is why the forces uncrew your non-drive side crank arm...combat the forces with a large 8mm allen or 14mm socket.
Use tire levers to take off tires with flat tubes, use hands to put tires on with new tubes so you don't pinch.
When trying to remove stuck bottom brackets with the park tool and your favorite ratchet, if you can't keep the tool in the cup while cranking it, try taking the ratchet out and threading an old axle or piece of all-thread into your spindle, then putting a nut on the axle to hold the tool against the cup while you back it out with a large crescent wrench with BOTH hands.
If you can't get your chainline right and you don't want to use chainring spacers or put the chainring on the backside of the spider because thats just uncool and non-hipster like, try putting a BB lockring behind your cog to space it out a little more.
If you can't afford the fancy park tool that puts your star nut perfectly straight in your steerer tube, get it started all cadywhompus like then find a socket that has the same OD as your forks ID and use that to get it to sit level.
If you can't afford the fancy park tool to install bearing races on your fork, try putting the fork in a vice upside down and tightening the vice until its just barely touching the fork and you can still move the fork up and down, then tap the bottom of the steerer tube (where the fork legs attach) with a hammer to seat the bearing race. It will be pushed on from both saides at once so it will go on straight.
If you can't afford the fancy park tool to cut your steerer tube perfectly straight, a miter saw with a metal hacksaw blade will cut at a 90* angle, you can also use the miter saw to cut pieces of 1-1/4 PVC pipe to make spacers for your SS casette MTB hub instead of buying up your shop's whole supply of aluminum spacers for $2.50 each or buying a $20 SS spacer kit.
Why un-bend your frame when you can just re-dish your wheel?
Soda cans make great seatpost shims for fitting 27.0 seatposts into your 27.2 frame.
If your chain gets tight, then loose, then tight, then loose your chainring is probably bent. Find the tightest spot on the rotation, loosen all chainring bolts half a turn, hit the front of your chainring with a large hammer a couple times, tighten all chainring ring bolts, repeat.
Tighten 'til it gets loose then back it off a quarter turn...
-Connor