May 5th 2022 I flew to Glasgow from Boston to cycle the Outer Hebridies, The Hebridean Way as they call it is a 200+miles long sign marked trail that spans the Outer Hebridies.
Due to prevailing winds this trail is usually cycled South to North and after some research I found that the month of May has the lowest rainfall of the year...statistically speaking.
I landed in Glasgow at 2PM and proceeded to find Luggage Poing - a luggage storage facility located directly at the airport. Upon finding they close at 4PM I frantically started building my bicycle from my 2 suitcases. My bicycle has S&S couplers and it fits in one suitcase but with all the panniers and bikepacking bags and gear I chose to split things into two suitcases which proved to be amazingly stress reducing move.
I made the 4PM deadline and was on my way. The early rain gave way to partly cloudy skies and I was on a mission to make it out of the city somewhere to pitch my tent for the night.
I needed to cross the River Clyde first and join a bicycle route 7 heading towards Loch Lomond. The adjustment to riding on the left side of the road, navigating roundabouts and turn finding was slightly more challenging than usual and the choice of crossing over Erskine Bridge was hyperurban but thereafter I found myself on a pleasant route 7 navigating canals and vilages.
It did not take too long to reach the town of Balloch, at the southern end of Loch Lomond. There I abandoned route 7 and embarked on the west side of the lake towards two potential campground locations. It was almost 9pm when I arrived at Luss Beach Campground where I was actually able to contact off hours warden and pay for a campsite, get a shower and spend my first night in Scotland.
Day 1 stats: Distance 34.94 mi, Elev Gain 1,074 ft
The next day I embarked towards the west shore of Scotland and a town of Oban. There was a path that doubled as a bicycle trail for about half the distance of Loch Lomond
The dedicated trail ended before I reached Crianlarich and I was introduced to Scottish narrow roads. It was an eye opening experience. Absolutely no shoulder to cycle on seems to be the norm here. I exchanged yields with the drivers along the way and found them to be courteous and patient.
I did not have enough speed to reach the ferry at 1PMish. I reached Oban around 3PM, purchased a ferry ticket for the next day, had fish and chips on the wharf, found a room in a guesthouse and slept like a log.
Day 2 Stats: Distance 68.80 mi, Elev Gain 2,693 ft
The next day I casually enjoyed an excellent bagel with smoked salmon and a latte at the waterfront plaza, got acquainted with some cyclists heading in the same direction and boarded the ferry to Castlebay on the island of Barra. We reached our destination late afternoon where I proceeded first to cycle south to Vatersay where the beginning of the trail of the Hebridean Way was. When I reached the end of the road I was slightly disappointed not to see any kind of marker to mile 0.
I started pedaling the trail and soonafter I came upon cyclists taking selfies of themselves by a rusty pole. It turns out I overshot the mile 0 in all my excitement. I took their group photo and they gladly took a photo of me.
I followed the Way through a beautiful landscape of white sandy beaches, windswept folling sheep pastures and occassional rock houses.
I pedaled past the turn off to the ferry as the last ferry has already gone, past the local airport to the northen end of Barra and a nice campsite at Scurrival.
Chatting with the landowner I found out that bad weather was coming in a few hours. High winds and rain. His face showed it all, it was going to be bad.
Day 3 stats: Distance 22.91 mi, Elev Gain 1,354 ft