Originally Posted by
cyclezen
now you're on smaller bikes with lower profiles, taking you away from what you state as wanting a more upright position, less stretch (because you can't) ...
you have been stating things which go against each other ... here you're first post, with key statements Bolded.
not really...
smaller bike frame - the one i've checked and measured, had handlebar on similar height as mine bike, but they were shorter ! which means my hands were closer and my torso was higher.
Originally Posted by
cyclezen
M or L doesn't mean anything... do you wear M or L shoes ?
in this situation M means ~53-54, L=56 (depends on a brand of course)
Originally Posted by
cyclezen
you've gotten a bunch of ideas, point and counterpoint on stem length. Yes a shorter stem will seem more 'repsonsive' - there is a fine line (personal to each rider) of what is responsive or overly twitichy - you rmeasure.
But the overwhelming comments are also that you saddle is poorly positioned.
And if you do reposition the saddle rearward, you'll likely also need to lower it a bit. And BTW, the sizeable nose down of the saddle is part of the poor position also. There are a lot of possible causes why you now have the nose down this much. When the best saddle position is determined, you'll likely not have near as much as current nose down.
The 56 tarmac is a good size for your body Dims, with good range of adjustment. Going to the smaller bikes you show would just make finding a comfortable position even more difficult.
Aero - when you want to be in the drops. Can you ride in the drops now? (rhetorical) Hoods and top are good for a more 'comfort' position.
At this point I think the best tact is to learn by doing, experiment per your ideas, and see how it works out.
i did a ride today with saddle 15mm more rearward - my kneecap was above axle (with crank arms horizontal), and i've put 100mm stem. for first 90-100km it was fine.
last bigger climb (about 600m up at 90%FTP) was fine, however later we had flat/a bit down road and I pedal while being on drops for 5 mins (at 85%FTP), and after that i started to feel my right knee, outside below kneecap - maybe it's a coincidence, maybe not (but few weeks ago i did 3000m and 120km and i felt completely fine after, and ready for more, but now, i can feel pain in my knee when i walk, and no biking for next few days)
last 15-20km i had to go very carefully, with minimum power, most climbs i had to do standing (as there was no pain at this position). - total 135km, 2500m.
First thing i'll do is to return to my previous very forward saddle position.... i'll return to my previous settings and slowly try to identify problem...
yes, it's against all DIY bikefitting tutorials from internet, but do they take into account my flexibility? my hamstrings or hipflexors, hip rotation ? i doubt...
the same with saddle tilt - i'm still experimenting, but again, my hip rotation can affect that. (i try to keep middle part of of the saddle flat)
my bikefitter told me that we set saddle like that, to maximise my power. maybe he knows something more ....