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Old 12-02-20, 03:37 PM
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travbikeman
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Location: Martinsburg WV Area
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Originally Posted by RubeRad
You don't say what kind of tires/rims/bike. The wider the tires, the lower the pressure, the better tubeless works. It should work great for any MTB tires 2" and up, and it's worth it to make sure you get tires that are rated Tubeless-Ready, because then you don't get weeping sidewalls, etc.

I went through a few iterations of having trouble getting my rims/beads to seal well, but then I started doing 'ghetto' tubeless, where instead of rim tape, I sacrifice an innertube, slice it all the way around and splay it out over the rim, then put the tire in, blast air to inflate, with the splayed tube squeezed between the rim and bead. Once the bead is well stuck in there, deflate and add sealant through the removable presta core. (Or you could scoop/pour sealant in before inflation, but it could be messier that way)
I now have VELOCITY AILERON rims/wheels that were built by Pro Wheelbuilder with 36 spoke rear rims to better handle my riding. It's going on a Scott Sub Cross 30 with new Panaracer GravelKing SK 700x43.

I decided to just put tubes in for now, and wow that was tough getting the tires on. Going to wait until I lose more weight and possibly get a gravel/touring bike that I will fit these new wheels to. Will then test out tubeless.

Was more curious if going tubeless would help cushion the ride on rails to trails and canal trails like the C&O.
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