Originally Posted by
Tourist in MSN
The fork needs to be the right fork for the frame as the frame designer specified. The two key factors besides wheel diameter is the axle to crown headset race distance, and the fork rake or offset.
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I built it up myself, so the parts were what I wanted.
But a titanium touring bike is not cost effective, a titanium frame instead of a steel frame only knocks a few pounds off the total weight, and when you are piling on a bunch of camping gear, a few pounds of weight savings is not noticed. So, only think about a titanium touring bike if you really want it, not because it will make your load lighter as it won't.
Very pretty! I'm definitely not buying a titanium bike anytime soon though I'd probably go for a road bike if I were to buy one.
I'd assume the Surly fork that came with the frame is the correct one, although the one I had manufactured for the kit matches all those angles exactly, just with a 20" wheel. If the first couple of trips work out, I think I'll probably build frame up so I can get the gearing I want.
Originally Posted by
Doug64
I set up all my families' touring bikes (6) with mountain bike gearing. We all run triples, 44/32/22 cranks, 11-34 cassette, mtn. rear derailleur, and road front derailleur, which will still works well with road brake/shift levers. It takes a shorter bottom bracket to maintain an 45-46 mm chainline. Using the same parts on all the bikes makes things simple for maintenance and parts. Most shops can do that for you.
Nice set ups. I've never thought about running a mountain drivetrain with road shifters. And now you've got me considering a LHT. That's awesome you've got your whole family touring! I'm trying to see if any of my friends would join me.
I'm not too worried about the mechanics, I love to work on my bikes. If I worked in a bike shop, I could probably save myself some money rather than needing new projects to tinker on all the time . . .