Originally Posted by
Awesomeguy
I totally try it out right now, my only issue, is i don't have one of those stands to troubleshoot, i might have to order it, since, taking it to the shop each time , can be a bit much .
You don’t need a stand. The likely problem…cable tension…is something that you can check with the bike sitting on the ground. Assuming that you have Acera shifters, shift into the large chainwheel and let go of the shifter. Then, without pedaling, push on the same lever you used to shift into the large chainring.
If the cable is properly adjusted, the derailer should be up against the stop and won’t move. Dollars to donuts, I would bet that your front derailer will move outboard just a little bit when you push on that shift lever.
An alternative would be to shift to the inner ring so that all tension is relaxed on the front shift cable. Pull on the cable (gently) to see if there is any slack in the cable. Front derailer cables need to be a little tighter than rear ones. If there is slack, use the barrel adjuster to take up the slack.
If the derailer moves, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster by turning it away from you as you sit on the bike. You probably won’t need more than a quarter of a turn.
If you don’t what to hold the bike up while you do this, get a toe strap or belt or some other strap. Find a pole and wrap the strap around the pole and the stem. You can do a lot to a bike with strapped to a pole. I often do work to my tandem this way because getting it up on the rack is a bit of a chore. Since this is a static job…you don’t need to spin the crank nor spin the wheels…strapping it to a post works really well.
I even have a nail hammered into a post for my porch for this purpose.
Lean the bike against the post
Strapped down. The bike won’t fall over and you’ll have your hands free to make adjustments.
