Here is the end result of the trimming of the saddle:
It is a bit tough to see, but this is it on the bike around the brake caliper.
With the wheel in place you can see the tight clearance against the brake disk bolts:
And the finished result:
The hitch is rock solid now. I have some anti-seize paste on the bolts. The bracket and clamps are mild steel so they can rust, even though they are painted. I am hoping the anti-seize paste prevents the bolts from seizing in the blocks, but also isn't going to allow them to back out. I will have to check them routinely just to see. I don't have any immediate treks planned with the trailer in tow so I won't have the hitch loaded all that much for a while. In any case, it is always a good idea to check the bolts.
With the saddle trimmed down I will have to test to see if I can get that on and off with the wheel on. That would be nice if I could, but not a deal breaker if I can't. It will be a lot easier with the wheel off, for sure, even if it is possible, though.
Next up is the new wheel build. It also appears I am going to need to make a new "axle" section for the trailer. I was hoping to get access to a lathe to turn some custom axles for conventional cone/race hubs to work with the existing stub axle set up. However, that is going to be more of a challenge all the way around than just biting the bullet and making a whole new axle section that allows the supporting of the conventional cone/race hubs from both sides. That is OK. At the end of the day, that is the type of set up I was going to go after with a whole new trailer build so this will get me in that direction without some axles that won't be very useful down the road. I can keep the existing set up for my "around town" set. The trailer sits outside so if the current wheel set deteriorates a bit over time that isn't the end of the world, but I would hate to have the new set exposed all the time. Down the road I hope to be able to resolve that predicament.