Originally Posted by
specialmonkey
Nice work Joe. What's wrong with the pipe cutter, it seems like a clean cutting option? That guy seems to have all of the other tools, I still need proper headset tools.
I love a good set of questions! My issue with the tubing/pipe cutter is that those work by essentially 'flowing' the material away from the 'cutting' blade. I say 'cutting' because no actual material is removed. It all goes somewhere and with a tube as thick as the innicycle steerer, it is a substantial amount that gets pushed in toward the ID. After using a tubing cutter, you'll have neither a flat cut surface nor a clean ID so a decent amount of filing will need to be done to get the top cap to fit properly. With a hacksaw blade and cutting guide, a quick deburr on the cut edges is all that is required.
Proper headset tools can be easily improvised with some threaded rod and either some washers or even sockets. Ideally, the cups are pressed in by only making contact with the flat surface under the bearings, especially on the upper cup. There is a small feature on its upper edge that helps keep water/dirt from getting inside and it can be easily distorted by too much pressure. Can it be used to press the cups in? Probably. If I had my way, would it be? No.
Originally Posted by
specialmonkey
In general what's the appeal of threadless? It seems you might like it for a more aggressive position? Why would I want it (I typically like bars and saddle even)?
The reason I wanted threadless was for the handlebar options combined with the fact that most threadless stems do a better job of clamping handlebars than quill stems do. There are 31.8mm quill stems available but they are limited in size, they aren't cheap, their aesthetics are lacking (IMO), and I don't fully trust how they clamp the handlebars (one in particular). I could typically accept one or two of those, but all four had me searching for a better option. There are 26.0mm modern-style handlebars, too, but again I've had issues with that clamp size (threadless stem) and there aren't a ton of options.
As I was designing a completely need headset, I took that opportunity to allow for running the handlebars as low as possible, given the trend toward shallow drops these days. I found that it worked well for me on the bike I was building in the process. Now, you like many others, want to run the bars quite a bit higher. The nice thing about threadless for that is you have quite a few stem choices (length and angle), and should you decide on certain days you don't want the bars way up, you can quickly swap stems or flip your existing stem to lower them.
Originally Posted by
specialmonkey
I've read threadless is an inherently better design? I can see the increased stiffness, easy removal/Rinko, and multiple stem option (and availability of new stems) benefits ... would a con be height adjustability? Looks might be another, if you are a stickler for classic & vintage.
The only way threadless is inherently better is stiffness. There's no doubting that larger diameter threadless stems are going to flex less than quill stems, especially for a given weight. You mention height adjustability as a con, but that depends on the specifics. For instance, some threaded forks have such a short steerer that you essentially get no height adjustment with a quill stem (think 50cm or smaller frames). Standard threadless requires resetting bearing preload for any stem adjustment but the way the innicycle adapter works, you only set the bearings once just like a threaded system. You are free to adjust the stem up and down, flip, or swap without ever needing to touch the bearing preload.
I'm working on a more classic stem option to pair with the innicycle headset. I recognize that many modern stems don't look quite right on a skinny tube frame.
Originally Posted by
specialmonkey
Is the Technomic one of the quills that scares you? What about quills too far down (or up?) in the steerer, I read in another thread steerer tube walls are only appropriate for the quill wedge in a particular region of the steerer, too high or too low (or maybe just one of those), could be dangerous?
Technomics are pretty tall but I've seen worse. Too high is definitely bad because you lose surface contact. Too low and you can run into the butted (small inner diameter) portion of the steerer tube and not be able to properly anchor the stem (as referenced in my comment above about small frames).
Originally Posted by
specialmonkey
Where can we see the thru axle project, and any other works you might have going?
This story on that project was recently posted:
https://cyclingtips.com/2020/06/mode...with-forkmods/
It all started here:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...p?f=1&t=149055
The only other current item of note is the short pull arms for TRP HY/RD calipers that I created for my disc bike with pre-hydro Campy levers. If you're bored:
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...ike-build.html