View Single Post
Old 05-16-22, 02:17 PM
  #10372  
the sci guy 
bill nyecycles
 
the sci guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 3,328
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 789 Post(s)
Liked 350 Times in 190 Posts
Originally Posted by SoSmellyAir
Thank you for the detailed explanation. Do you have the reach and stack numbers for your frame?

OK. My preference is for a threadless steerer and headset, so I may have to keep looking.

That was my assumption as well given that the paint looks pretty good for a bike old enough to have a quill stem. I suppose a decent automotive body shop can do a good job painting an aluminum bike frame?

Yes, no way to ascertain without the original paint scheme and R1000 decal. The bike does not have a FD, so it is certainly possible that the current drivetrain is not original.
Yeah I searched for almost 2 1/2 years for my 2000 R1000 - both the model year, colorway, and frame size. I'm short so finding a 52 is hard.
I had found a 1999 R1000 that I didn't want to pay the asking price for & regretted passing on it for almost a year straight - but then I found the frame I really wanted and I don't regret it anymore obviously lol

I did buy an 1999 R300 the year before, rebuild it with flat bars, then swapped for drops again to sell it - I made it a 1x8 as well.



You can find the geometry of the 2000 models here: 2000.pdf (https://vintagecannondale.com/year/2...cannondale.com) (page 62, 2nd box down)
It's not the best scan so the numbers are a little hard to read.
__________________
Twitter@theSurlyBiker
Instagram @yankee.velo.foxtrot
the sci guy is offline  
Likes For the sci guy: