Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,212
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3462 Post(s)
There are as many break in procedures as there are leather saddle users. I would never suggest putting the saddle in a bucket of warm water, and doing a Mink Oil slather before even using the saddle. But if you really want to, go ahead, it is your saddle and your bum.
When I wanted to expedite things, I might soak the saddle for 15 seconds in cold water. Yup, seconds, not minutes.
And when my saddle is two thirds or three quarters of the shape that I want it to have, that is when I apply Brooks Proofide. Even though I use fenders on most bikes, thus tire spray from underneath is minimal, I still apply Proofide to both top and bottom. Some suggest only needing application to the bottom if you do not use fenders.
The Proofide (or other hydrophobic applications) are important for water repellency, avoid any chance of rain until you have applied that. But, once that is applied, the leather does not take shape to your bum as well, that is why I put off the Proofide application until I get the shape mostly where I want it.
I keep a waterproof saddle cover with my spare tube, so the cover is always with the bike in case of unexpected rain. On days with intermittent sprinkles all day long, I just leave the cover on all day.