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Old 05-19-21, 08:54 PM
  #17  
Andrew R Stewart 
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Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

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Originally Posted by headwind15
Hi, I am sort of shocked by the response to your post. I don't know about the frequent posers and their experience with in regards to a frame with a drop out that was brazed in a little higher than the other. Over the years, I don't know how many frames I have built, screwed up/ seen with this exact issue. Preferably it would have been nicer if Pinerello had spotted this before chroming the frame. It might have been possible to heat the seat stay when it was only braze tacked together and pull the drop out down 1/2 mm or whatever. I just brazed a frame together a few month ago... same thing. I figured it out before painting it, so I took a file to the vertical drop out and presto, it's fixed. Sometimes I have had to put a little brass in a vertical drop out and file it down until the wheel sits properly. I bought this cheap aluminum Force bike with vertical drop outs. Wheel with perfect dish... off center. Off to the file again, now it's fine. I can tell you if the frame is somehow out of alignment (drop outs to the left or right) this is not going to center the wheel/ fix it. Unless it was in a car accident and off by a centimeters (not millimeters). I still think your best opinion is as Doug Fattic said bend the drop out down slightly, and then use some epoxy as filler so the axle has something the right height to sit on. Chrome will be intact/ wheel will sit centered.

!!! This
For those of us who have built frames, and more then just one in a class setting, getting the rear drops "perfectly" located is not a simple cut and paste. I have done much the same as headwin15 describes. Andy
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