So mine doesn't have bar end shifters, it is a grip shift. I guess I don't understand how the shifting cable would change tension if I don't touch it? I also was a bit confused when he put the rear wheel back on and then had to
completely readjust the settings on the rear der. At least with my previous 2 wheelers, albeit none with a hub motor, taking off the rear wheel and then replacing never required adjusting the shifting. With the trike, he
had to completely reset all the shifting intervals and stops on the rear der. I guess I am really concerned that he may not have assembled it correctly - or at least the way it was originally. I "thought" there was a spacer and washer
that I lost (in my defense, I had put my old dog to sleep the day before and was not very focused when I pulled the wheel). The company that installed the hub motor system told me to be sure "they note where the spacers go" if
I have a shop change the rear tire. When the mechanic reassembled it, each side of the axle had 1 washer, 1 torque washer and 1 axle nut. Is it possible I did lose some bits and that is causing a misalignment which is causing
the chain rub on the front der and the movement of the chain off the cog? This is what concerns me the most, as it would have long term consequences on the system I suppose. If that's not possible, then I guess maybe it's the
shifter calble, although the movement is toward the outside of the big cog, not toward the smaller ones. I can pedal and see the chain go from having a even gap between the big cog and the chain protector disc, then the chain
starts to climb the cog at an angle and the gap disappears. If I don't shift it back a tiny bit, then it feels like it starts to slip. Does that make any sense? I'm trying to understand because I have 30 days warranty on the work the
guy did and want to be sure it's working right before that time is up. There are NO shops around me that will work on a recumbent, amazingly, and the mobile service is a big flat fee regardless of the problem.