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Poor Man's Parts Cleaner

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Old 08-20-21, 02:15 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
What about using an ultrasonic toothbrush...? Best of both worlds...
I would supplement it with my Sonic Screwdriver …
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Old 08-20-21, 02:21 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Come on ... stop wasting bandwidth... move along. I have negative opinions about other opinions expressed above... certain participants go back and delete their inflammatory off-topic opinions.
Pastor, it's not perfect, but the ignore function works pretty well.
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Old 08-20-21, 02:31 PM
  #53  
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I'm afreid if I use my inlaws' empty kimchi bottles for this my bike will ferment.
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Old 08-20-21, 04:01 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You are on your way towards understanding. I’m not sure what you mean by a “chain break in process” as a chain is useable out of the package without any thing being done to it. I clean my chains once when I install them. They don’t get cleaned again. After 3000 to 4000 miles, I replace them with a cleaned chain. Even with what most people would consider abusive treatment of the chain, I get what other people usually claim in chain mileage. All of the ultrasonic cleaning, multiple washes, multiple solvents, passing of bones over the chain, and ancient chants in dead languages that most people will tell you that you have to do doesn’t get them significantly more mileage out of their chains. It’s just extra work.

Coleman fuel, by the way, is basically odored mineral spirits. We call it “white gas” but it isn’t gasoline. The flash point is a bit lower (0°F) which makes it a little more flammable then mineral spirits but not nearly as flammable as gasoline. It does have an elevated benzene content which makes it more hazardous to handle…please use gloves with any solvent…but it’s still less toxic than gasoline which has a much higher benzene content.
The chain is initially useable of course. I ride with the factory grease on it for 100 miles to deburr the machine marks. If this is unclear, Google Friction Facts or Zero Friction. Then, I clean and hot wax. I get 10,000 miles until 0.4% wear at which point, I replace.
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Old 08-20-21, 07:04 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I happen to have several working brain cells that I used to get a degree in chemistry along with 40 years of experience working with chemicals. Years of safety training seminars have taught me that lots of people didn’t survive such dangerous practices.
I am a few credits shy of a chem degree, sold industrial chemicals long ago. All your comments are correct. My original post has to do with just a poor man's clean up. Most folks on this post don't always get the connection between the metal or plastic being cleaned vs the solvent used. Like folks who use chlorinated solvents to get grease off only to find etched aluminum remaining. And the safety levels of solvents(flash points, vapor pressures, fumes, etc).

The basic reason I like ultrasonic is it cleans out friction points that are sleeved or pinned(not bearings). Yes its overkill cleaning but it is a time saver. I do the occasional derailleur or brake on a vintage bike.

Mineral spirits is indeed a safety factor over gas. Lacking a garage, I only use solvents outdoors. Some high school friends were using solvents in a garage with a heater, the solvents went up and they suffered terrible burns.

Nobody thinks about pH of cleaners! Just as nobody thinks about the base chemicals of lubes. The average guy should just use basic products and not overthink the topic. Thanks for your input. Good to have a fellow chemist to consult
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Old 08-21-21, 08:55 PM
  #56  
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A proper ultrasonic cleaner also doubles up as a coffee maker.
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Old 08-21-21, 09:23 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
I like the toothbrush approach cause of the reuse principal and, well I just like handling stuff and getting greasy!
Off topic but... Some time back our dental insurance company sent toothbrushes for everyone. I don't know the reason other than advertising as I would like to think everyone has one already but apparently that isn't the case. We had a great number of people outright state that they either wear dentures or they don't brush their teeth. As a result, boxes of these toothbrushes were left at the time clock.

I started taking one every day. Then I started taking two or three. Eventually I was taking them out by the handful. My coworkers suck, but I have clean nooks and crannies on my bikes. Oh... I brush my teeth with them before using them on the bikes.
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Old 08-22-21, 06:57 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
The whole ultrasonic bath thing for cleaning bicycle parts is pretty silly to begin with. There is nothing on a bicycle that needs to be that clean nor will it stay that clean.
I so agree, Stu. The whole idea of u/s cleaning was to save time and mess, but in the end its nothing but a fiddly mess in its own right.
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Old 08-23-21, 11:59 AM
  #59  
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A car mechanic friend uses brake cleaner for everything. You can get it in a can, or an aerosol. Unlike carburetor cleaner it doesn't leave a residue and it cuts grease well, since it's designed to get everything that's even closely related to grease off you car's friction surfaces. Works for me too. I suspect it's functionally similar to mineral spirits, but it's at least specifically formulated for a task similar to cleaning a chain.

I would appreciate any responses from the posters that know more than I do.

Do I need to start a new topic to ask if any of these cleaning methods will fix an old sticky Shimano brifter that doesn't want to ratchet?
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Old 08-23-21, 01:11 PM
  #60  
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Some thoughts, the well heeled reloader has an ultrasonic cleaner for their brass. A tumbler wight be a way to polish components since walnut shell media and brass polish makes for shiny stuff.
For general grease removal I use brake cleaner or Simple Green for small stuff and S100 to wash the bike. That usually removes all the crud I care about. I use solvent based chain lube which takes care of cleaning as well.
In answer to the last post, Shimano Rapid Fire and STI shifters sometimes respond to flushing with solvent followed by some penetrating oil and sometimes not.
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Old 08-23-21, 10:10 PM
  #61  
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All I see when someone mentions hot wax

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Old 08-24-21, 06:14 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Duke7777
I would have agreed with this statement until about a year ago. For decades I had used mineral spirits, WD-40, degreasers, and lots of various brushes and rags. I was getting sick and tired of it. Last year I bought an ultrasonic cleaner to clean chains, as I was converting all my bikes to hot wax (a decision I'm very happy about). Now that I have the ultrasonic, I use it all the time for other parts and love it. No more breathing fumes, and little or no scrubbing. Saves time and does a better job. No more accumulation of stinky used mineral spirits.
Can you please explain this?
"I was converting all my bikes to hot wax"
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Old 08-24-21, 09:14 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by peterraymond
A car mechanic friend uses brake cleaner for everything. You can get it in a can, or an aerosol. Unlike carburetor cleaner it doesn't leave a residue and it cuts grease well, since it's designed to get everything that's even closely related to grease off you car's friction surfaces. Works for me too. I suspect it's functionally similar to mineral spirits, but it's at least specifically formulated for a task similar to cleaning a chain.

I would appreciate any responses from the posters that know more than I do.
Effective but expensive. I probably wouldn’t use it for everything but it has it’s uses.

Do I need to start a new topic to ask if any of these cleaning methods will fix an old sticky Shimano brifter that doesn't want to ratchet?
Like this. WD-40 actually does a pretty good job with this problem because it has mineral oil in it. No extra oil needed.

But for general cleaning, mineral spirits and a rag will do the job a lot cheaper. The key is to not use something that makes everything oily. Oil based chain lubes just cause maintenance issues that make everyone who uses them lose their minds about cleaning.
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Old 08-24-21, 09:43 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by peterraymond
A car mechanic friend uses brake cleaner for everything. You can get it in a can, or an aerosol. Unlike carburetor cleaner it doesn't leave a residue and it cuts grease well, since it's designed to get everything that's even closely related to grease off you car's friction surfaces. Works for me too.
Just be aware that if you take a torch or flame to any un-evaporated brake cleaner, it releases horribly toxic phosgene gas and kills quickly. Auto mechanics know this well.
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Old 08-24-21, 10:37 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by gbsk
Can you please explain this?
"I was converting all my bikes to hot wax"
I lubricate the chains by immersing in molten wax. There are pros and cons, but I like it.
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Old 08-24-21, 10:52 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by clubman
Just be aware that if you take a torch or flame to any un-evaporated brake cleaner, it releases horribly toxic phosgene gas and kills quickly. Auto mechanics know this well.
Well, don’t do that!

Not all brake cleaners use chlorinated solvents. If you are going to use brake cleaner on bicycles, choose the nonchlorinated ones or use Finishline Speed Degreaser which is the same stuff.
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Old 08-25-21, 09:40 AM
  #67  
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Wikipedia talks about at least 22 types of waxes. And cross country skiers and alpine ski races certainly use wide variations within a type. Straight paraffin is easy to find, but tends to crack and flake and doesn't seem like it would be very good for chains. Beeswax seems like it would be better, but I'm sure there are specialized chain waxes that are far from the goal of "poor man's" expressed in the OP. Maybe there is a best answer, but, like oils, wax contains hydrocarbons. It seems strange to have a digital divide: wax good, oil bad.
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Old 08-25-21, 11:15 AM
  #68  
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My Method:

1. Clean factory wax off new chain with mineral spirits
2. Install and lube
3. Ride, ocasionally lube and clean if it makes me embarressed to be in public with it.
4. When shifting suffers, remove old chain and dip once in a trash can.
5. Repaeat steps 1-4.
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Old 08-25-21, 11:40 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Well, don’t do that!

Not all brake cleaners use chlorinated solvents. If you are going to use brake cleaner on bicycles, choose the nonchlorinated ones or use Finishline Speed Degreaser which is the same stuff.
I've head that cautionary. As I recall carb cleaner is comparatively less hazardous to use for degreasing, but brake cleaner the nuclear option for getting a surface clean. I've got a project bike that will need the headset cups and maybe the bottom bracket glued in. I was going to use brake cleaner as the surfaces have been full greased before.
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Old 08-26-21, 08:16 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Skip the WD-40 and buy a can of mineral spirits. The only difference is the 25% mineral oil in the WD-40 that you don’t need and that leaves a film of oil on everything you “clean” with it.
Is mineral spirit called "white spirit"? Thats what comes up in google?
If so, the fumes are quite strong from it.
Thanks
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Old 08-26-21, 08:43 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua
Is mineral spirit called "white spirit"? Thats what comes up in google?
If so, the fumes are quite strong from it.
Thanks
Yes, although there are different grades. Odorless mineral spirits has a lower aromatic (benzene/xylene) content which makes it less objectionable. It also increases the flash point.
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Old 08-26-21, 05:34 PM
  #72  
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Fantastic, now I know what to do with all my old sanders!
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