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Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

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Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

Old 05-15-20, 11:13 AM
  #7701  
Mushrooom
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988
It's aluminum. That's probably just sag from it being on a wall display.
Don't mean to be offensive, but do you really think that pro riders from the 90s could race with these things, but that putting them on a wall would warp them? I mean, come on.
This guy...
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Old 05-15-20, 11:49 AM
  #7702  
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Originally Posted by Mushrooom
Don't mean to be offensive, but do you really think that pro riders from the 90s could race with these things, but that putting them on a wall would warp them? I mean, come on.
This guy...
Did you really take that comment seriously?
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Old 05-15-20, 11:50 AM
  #7703  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988
Did you really take that comment seriously?
I did, actually! You never know nowadays, apologies. Now the joke's on me!
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Old 05-15-20, 12:12 PM
  #7704  
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Originally Posted by Mushrooom
How can I make sure that my frame wasn't involved in a crash? I'd like to learn some more on that. The paint is all original and practically as new. The original levers were scratched, but that's about everything I saw. Original wheels (Shimano 600) were also true, round and in pristine condition.
The construction of Vitus frames like yours means the obvious crinkles that we can see in a steel frame might not show here, if indeed it suffered a front end collision.

Your frame was also anodized IIRC so paint wouldn't chip (since there is no paint as we usually think of it). I too have been surprised by the resilience of a front wheel when the frame or fork takes the brunt of the impact. I suppose the top tube joining area (apologies for poor terminology) could be the primary area that was affected.

I'd look closely where the tubes, including the fork tubes, are joined together. Maybe others will chime in, or it may be worth a post in the main C&V section to see what folx think.
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Old 05-15-20, 02:51 PM
  #7705  
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Originally Posted by Mushrooom
How can I make sure that my frame wasn't involved in a crash? I'd like to learn some more on that. The paint is all original and practically as new. The original levers were scratched, but that's about everything I saw. Original wheels (Shimano 600) were also true, round and in pristine condition.
You could try putting a straight edge across the top and down tubes in the areas that look bent.

Beautiful bike in any case.
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Old 05-16-20, 04:40 PM
  #7706  
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Originally Posted by Mushrooom
How can I make sure that my frame wasn't involved in a crash? I'd like to learn some more on that. The paint is all original and practically as new. The original levers were scratched, but that's about everything I saw. Original wheels (Shimano 600) were also true, round and in pristine condition.
Save yourself the hassle and take it to a frame builder. He'll fit it into a jig and can check if the geometry of the frame is within specs. No point messing about. If it's bent, he should be able to advise on your available options.

Last edited by Schlafen; 05-16-20 at 04:41 PM. Reason: Spellin' yo
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Old 05-17-20, 09:36 AM
  #7707  
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Finally 10 posts. I can share my upgraded vintage bike now.
It's a late 90's Giant Peloton 7000 cr-mo. 9.5kg as pictured.
Oddly enough can't find much info about these bikes. The only original part left, is the frame with original gold paint.
Came with a 7 speed Shimano Exage EX300 with downtube shifters, which was replaced with a full Force 22 groupset.
Rode it with a 11-26 cassette for a while after which I replaced the Force short cage derailleur for a 10 speed Apex medium cage (11speed WiFli for cheaps), 50-34 rings, 11-32 cassette. Campag something wheels with 25mm Michelin Pro4 tyres (28mm actual width) clearance galore, so, will go up to 30mm when the tyres will need replacing. Shimano boat anchor clipless pedals.
I use it as my daily commuter now, so had to rise the bars, but I normally rode it slammed. Carbon handlebar, alloy seatpost (carbon seat post in the mail) also will replace the saddle at some point but it works well for now.
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Old 05-17-20, 08:02 PM
  #7708  
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That's sharp.

54cm frame size?
Fit looks tall, but with a shorter top tube and stem.

Nice bike.
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Old 05-18-20, 11:02 AM
  #7709  
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Originally Posted by chainwhip



That's sharp.

54cm frame size?
Fit looks tall, but with a shorter top tube and stem.

Nice bike.
Thanks, 54 indeed. 100mm stem. I usually ride it slammed, like below. Long'ish legs? Fits like a glove, with a sprinkle of toe overlap 😁

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Old 05-18-20, 11:20 AM
  #7710  
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Originally Posted by PhilPub
Now here's a strange coincidence, I believe the Bowman Pilgrims is named after the Pilgrims' Way, which runs across some beautiful countryside through Southern England, including my stomping ground in the Weald of Kent. One of my first rides with the new wheels was along the Pilgrims' Way and the above photos were taken on a lane just off it. Here's an older picture on the Pilgrims' Way itself with the old wheels.



If you ever fancy a pilgrimage, it's a lovely bit of road!
Wow! Heck of a coincidence! Indeed, the frame is named after the Pilgrims Way and the new updated model for 2020 is now called the Weald. I would love to make that trip. Funny roads and cars dont bother me but airplanes do!
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Old 05-18-20, 01:47 PM
  #7711  
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Originally Posted by billytwosheds
The construction of Vitus frames like yours means the obvious crinkles that we can see in a steel frame might not show here, if indeed it suffered a front end collision.

Your frame was also anodized IIRC so paint wouldn't chip (since there is no paint as we usually think of it). I too have been surprised by the resilience of a front wheel when the frame or fork takes the brunt of the impact. I suppose the top tube joining area (apologies for poor terminology) could be the primary area that was affected.

I'd look closely where the tubes, including the fork tubes, are joined together. Maybe others will chime in, or it may be worth a post in the main C&V section to see what folx think.
To my eyes, the top tube, down tube and fork all look like the bike to a front end impact.
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Old 05-18-20, 04:04 PM
  #7712  
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Originally Posted by Fivethumbs
To my eyes, the top tube, down tube and fork all look like the bike to a front end impact.
Same. It has the "about the pounce" look of a bike that took a head on collision. Bummer.
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Old 05-18-20, 04:22 PM
  #7713  
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Apologies for getting a lot of attention in this thread. There sure are a lot of lovely bikes here and I enjoy following the different builds posted every now and then.

Fivethumbs Schlafen delicious billytwosheds romperrr seypat Jimbo1983

Just to try to clarify once and for all the case of the bizarrely shaped tubes on my 992, it seems to me that practically every 992 frame I look at has this odd shape (even the ones billytwosheds posted). I agree, it is more apparent on some frames than on others. It also seems easier to spot on larger frames. My bike was inspected by a professional and he said that even though it looked odd, there wasn't anything he could point out as problematic. I wrote an email to the original owner (in France) to try to clarify the history of the frame. It is very unlikely that I'll get an answer, but I'll be waiting to read what he has to say about it.

I put together a collection of images of 992 frames where you can clearly see that odd subtle bump near the headset. I doubt that all of these frames were involved in a frontal crash. It most probably has something to do with the original design. Maybe it was more prominent on certain years of production. I can only speculate at this moment. Anyway, hope this helps.













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Old 05-18-20, 04:32 PM
  #7714  
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Or maybe I'm just dead wrong and don't know what to do about it.
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Old 05-18-20, 05:12 PM
  #7715  
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Originally Posted by Mushrooom
Or maybe I'm just dead wrong and don't know what to do about it.
That's a good mindset and I hope you're not wrong.

The image you shared that looks the most like yours (to me) is this one:



I suppose what makes me worries is that the center of the tube does not appear to follow a straight line. As the top tube was "shaped" into an oval towards the end, I would assume the center of the tube would remain constant unless the ovalized end was not meant to be flared evenly, and then we have the rise and dip.

The only thing I might look at is checking the head tube angle in relation to the top tube and downtube. If those angles are off by a few degrees or more, then the likelihood of a past collision jumps.

Or just say eff it and ride the darn thing
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Old 05-19-20, 02:41 PM
  #7716  
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Originally Posted by billytwosheds
That's a good mindset and I hope you're not wrong.

Or just say eff it and ride the darn thing
That was my plan all along!

I finally got a word from the original french owner today. I made sure that he understood that he could be honest with me, as our transaction dated from last year and there was no point in complaining after all this time. He said that there never was a single accident. He agreed that there was a weird undulation on the tubes in the places I pointed out, but he doesn't recall any particular incident that should explain its existence. He was also puzzled as to how that could have been done to the tubes without affecting the headset or damaging the front wheel. I guess the mystery will go on. It rides beautifully nonetheless.
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Old 05-25-20, 12:26 PM
  #7717  
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That's a big frame!
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Old 06-01-20, 01:35 AM
  #7718  
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'89 Schwinn Paramount w/brifters


After a few hours researching Chorus vs Centaur brifters went with the Centaur not much less performance wise and somewhat cheaper.
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Old 06-03-20, 11:07 AM
  #7719  
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Hi Garboplex, which fork did you use for the bike? I'm looking for a carbon fork that can fit my '78 Holdsworth frame.. Any suggestion?Cheers! D
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Old 06-05-20, 02:39 PM
  #7720  
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Just finished up my son's puch but ran into some problems.



For groupset I used sram apex, everything went well except for the front derailleur which doesnt want to reach unless I tension tha xable super tight. So now it'll shift bit makes a very loud clicking sound on the down shift.
I figure the problem is the clamp on adapter which brings the derailleur closer to the frame by a few mm, then a the problem is compounded with outboard cups that pushes the crank further away. Anyone solve this problem? Was told the newer sram have a further reach? Thanks.
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Old 06-05-20, 09:07 PM
  #7721  
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I can't see anything obvious wrong. I am not familiar with the apex derailleurs, but is the cable clamped properly on the derailleur. It looks like it goes too far under (below) the clamp screw when it is on the big ring.
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Old 06-05-20, 09:26 PM
  #7722  
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Originally Posted by bikeaddiction1
I can't see anything obvious wrong. I am not familiar with the apex derailleurs, but is the cable clamped properly on the derailleur. It looks like it goes too far under (below) the clamp screw when it is on the big ring.
I'll buy you a beer if that's it...lol. thanks will try. Here's my current project
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Old 06-06-20, 05:19 AM
  #7723  
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I think I'll be sneaky and post this here Just finished and ready to ride "Ex" flat bar hybrid 93 Giant Innova turned gravel bike with sti's. Frame and fork restored then mostly rebuilt with parts I had, some new.




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Old 06-06-20, 07:38 AM
  #7724  
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Originally Posted by N2motorsports
Here's my current project
Nice.
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Old 06-06-20, 10:01 AM
  #7725  
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recently completed 1988 nishiki olympic w/campy potenza






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