[New Bike] Going from easy gear to hard gear...
08-31-22, 07:46 PM
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Probably 5503.
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09-01-22, 06:18 AM
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It's also possible that a previous owner removed the 30, then adjusted the lower limit screw to prevent the FD from dropping past the 42, then set the cable tension so that the lowest click corresponds to the 42, and then a properly set upper limit screw would prevent upshifting past the 52. That would prevent the FD tossing the chain onto the BB shell, and/or the cable going really slack when the STI releases the cable tension all the way.
The front shifter works only 1 up or 1 down.
If that bike originally had a triple and the shifter is still there, just put a 30 on and adjust everything and ride. You could put a 39 middle ring which might be more useful.
The 30 can't be "too low" for a steep grade. A 30x23, which would be your lowest gear, isn't as low as the 34x32 modern bikes have. Plus, you could shift to a smaller cog if you're spinning too much.
If the 30 works you can ride virtually everything while you decide if you want to change things and it's the cheapest way.
I have a triple bike I ride sometimes. It was built with 52-39-30 and a 11-25 cassette. A wide gear range and I've done a ton of climbing on it, at least a couple million feet.
The 30 can't be "too low" for a steep grade. A 30x23, which would be your lowest gear, isn't as low as the 34x32 modern bikes have. Plus, you could shift to a smaller cog if you're spinning too much.
If the 30 works you can ride virtually everything while you decide if you want to change things and it's the cheapest way.
I have a triple bike I ride sometimes. It was built with 52-39-30 and a 11-25 cassette. A wide gear range and I've done a ton of climbing on it, at least a couple million feet.
9 speed 105 from the Octalink era...
cassette looks like 12 to 23, to my eye...
cranks, given what you say is on the crank, COULD be a triple crank... look at the backside of the crank, if there are 5 empty bolt posts (female), one each on each crank arm near the axle/spindle center - then it can take a granny gear - usually a 30. Best, cheapest way to get the gearing needed for climbing ... IF the Brifters are also triple... Lift the rubber hood on the left/front shifter - under that will be a Model #... triple model numbers/names usually end on an '03'...
Shimano 9 speed Octalink Crank - BB/inboard side
Triples are great for a broad range of gears, and the shimano triples from that era work great - when properly set up. 'Bikie' fashion has poo-poo'd triples, but they have always worked well for me.
And if the motor is good, who cares? Ignore fashion, function over fashion.
Dial your guads up to 450 and droop the naysayers... LOL!
Ride On
Yuri
cassette looks like 12 to 23, to my eye...
cranks, given what you say is on the crank, COULD be a triple crank... look at the backside of the crank, if there are 5 empty bolt posts (female), one each on each crank arm near the axle/spindle center - then it can take a granny gear - usually a 30. Best, cheapest way to get the gearing needed for climbing ... IF the Brifters are also triple... Lift the rubber hood on the left/front shifter - under that will be a Model #... triple model numbers/names usually end on an '03'...
Shimano 9 speed Octalink Crank - BB/inboard side
Triples are great for a broad range of gears, and the shimano triples from that era work great - when properly set up. 'Bikie' fashion has poo-poo'd triples, but they have always worked well for me.
And if the motor is good, who cares? Ignore fashion, function over fashion.
Dial your guads up to 450 and droop the naysayers... LOL!
Ride On
Yuri
I think the previous owner removed the smaller 30T gear and did other modifications
the front derailleur works only 1 up or 1 down.
09-01-22, 07:33 AM
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the front shifter/derailleur works only 1 up or 1 down.
Yes, I think the previous owner removed the smaller 30T gear. please check the pic bellow
The front shifter works only 1 up or 1 down.
Yes, originally the bike had a triple(please check the pic bellow), I'll look for the 30 in market
Thank you all so much for the help!
I think the previous owner removed the smaller 30T gear and did other modifications
the front derailleur works only 1 up or 1 down.
Yes, I think the previous owner removed the smaller 30T gear. please check the pic bellow
The front shifter works only 1 up or 1 down.
Yes, originally the bike had a triple(please check the pic bellow), I'll look for the 30 in market
Thank you all so much for the help!
I think the previous owner removed the smaller 30T gear and did other modifications
the front derailleur works only 1 up or 1 down.
If it turns out the shifter is a double only you could still put a 39 on, I'm pretty sure you can't use a 36 but there may be a 38 non-Shimano that might work.
And if that is a long cage rear derailleur, which would have come on a triple bike, then you could certainly go with a 32 on the rear cassette. That would give you a 39x32 low gear, More expensive than just turning it back into a triple but it would climb easier than 42x23.
09-01-22, 09:44 AM
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I think it's possible to make it so the big ring is where the center ring should be and the middle ring is where the small would be. I don't think someone would put a double shifter on there but it's possible. You could disconnect the cable from the derailleur and pull it while shifting and see what it does. Better to get someone knowledgeable if you're not sure.
If it turns out the shifter is a double only you could still put a 39 on, I'm pretty sure you can't use a 36 but there may be a 38 non-Shimano that might work.
And if that is a long cage rear derailleur, which would have come on a triple bike, then you could certainly go with a 32 on the rear cassette. That would give you a 39x32 low gear, More expensive than just turning it back into a triple but it would climb easier than 42x23.
If it turns out the shifter is a double only you could still put a 39 on, I'm pretty sure you can't use a 36 but there may be a 38 non-Shimano that might work.
And if that is a long cage rear derailleur, which would have come on a triple bike, then you could certainly go with a 32 on the rear cassette. That would give you a 39x32 low gear, More expensive than just turning it back into a triple but it would climb easier than 42x23.
IF it's a Triple FD, then no problem, if a double FD, then it depends on the limit screw adjustment... OP's pic doesn't show Front D clearly.
Here are 2 pics to distinguish between 2x & 3x
Shimano 105 DoubleFront Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra Triple Derailleur
note the difference in the chain cage - inboard arm of triple is broader and hangs lower than outer arm
I found an interesting chart for Shimano Brifter Shifts and Trim positions, though not comprehensive for all models. Note the middle column of 'positions' can be confusing, because it shows positions relative from looking DOWN at the Front Der... so the Right hand position is the Big Ring and left of those would be the Middle/Inner ring and granny..
SHimano Front Brifter Shift adjustments by model
.
OP, without finding the Model number of the front Brifter, it would take someone knowledgeable with SHimano Brifters of that era to be able to distinguish between 2X and 3X.
If it is 2X, then the easiest way to get lower gearing is to go with a broader range cassette, like 12-30 or 12-32...
That Rear D is the long cage RD of that era and depending on B screw adjustment and dropout hanger config, should handle a 32, but prolly for sure a 28 or 30 rear cog.
...Off for a ride, before the heat sets in...
living where I do, has turned me into a weather wuss... LOL! no longer a 'hard man' of cycling (except when I have to...) LOL!
Ride on ... comfortably
Yuri
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09-01-22, 10:06 AM
#30
Miles to Go
Many front STG shifters were sold as 2X or 3X with the adjustment limiting the shifter to 2X. I personally would verify the model number of the shifter (printed on the shifter). Internet search will show you where. If you shifter is good for 2X or 3X, verify that the crankset has not been moved inward by sighting the middle ring which should be pointing around the middle of the cassette. If these two are positive, install (or have installed) a 30T ring and adjust the shifting.
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09-01-22, 10:17 AM
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IF, the Front Brifter is only 2x, As big john notes, you may be able to setup the shifting for just the middle and low/inside (30) rings. .
Yuri
Yuri
09-01-22, 01:57 PM
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IF, the Front Brifter is only 2x, As big john notes, you may be able to setup the shifting for just the middle and low/inside (30) rings. Depends on the Front Der...
IF it's a Triple FD, then no problem, if a double FD, then it depends on the limit screw adjustment... OP's pic doesn't show Front D clearly.
Here are 2 pics to distinguish between 2x & 3x
Shimano 105 DoubleFront Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra Triple Derailleur
note the difference in the chain cage - inboard arm of triple is broader and hangs lower than outer arm
I found an interesting chart for Shimano Brifter Shifts and Trim positions, though not comprehensive for all models. Note the middle column of 'positions' can be confusing, because it shows positions relative from looking DOWN at the Front Der... so the Right hand position is the Big Ring and left of those would be the Middle/Inner ring and granny..
SHimano Front Brifter Shift adjustments by model
.
OP, without finding the Model number of the front Brifter, it would take someone knowledgeable with SHimano Brifters of that era to be able to distinguish between 2X and 3X.
If it is 2X, then the easiest way to get lower gearing is to go with a broader range cassette, like 12-30 or 12-32...
That Rear D is the long cage RD of that era and depending on B screw adjustment and dropout hanger config, should handle a 32, but prolly for sure a 28 or 30 rear cog.
...Off for a ride, before the heat sets in...
living where I do, has turned me into a weather wuss... LOL! no longer a 'hard man' of cycling (except when I have to...) LOL!
Ride on ... comfortably
Yuri
IF it's a Triple FD, then no problem, if a double FD, then it depends on the limit screw adjustment... OP's pic doesn't show Front D clearly.
Here are 2 pics to distinguish between 2x & 3x
Shimano 105 DoubleFront Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra Triple Derailleur
note the difference in the chain cage - inboard arm of triple is broader and hangs lower than outer arm
I found an interesting chart for Shimano Brifter Shifts and Trim positions, though not comprehensive for all models. Note the middle column of 'positions' can be confusing, because it shows positions relative from looking DOWN at the Front Der... so the Right hand position is the Big Ring and left of those would be the Middle/Inner ring and granny..
SHimano Front Brifter Shift adjustments by model
.
OP, without finding the Model number of the front Brifter, it would take someone knowledgeable with SHimano Brifters of that era to be able to distinguish between 2X and 3X.
If it is 2X, then the easiest way to get lower gearing is to go with a broader range cassette, like 12-30 or 12-32...
That Rear D is the long cage RD of that era and depending on B screw adjustment and dropout hanger config, should handle a 32, but prolly for sure a 28 or 30 rear cog.
...Off for a ride, before the heat sets in...
living where I do, has turned me into a weather wuss... LOL! no longer a 'hard man' of cycling (except when I have to...) LOL!
Ride on ... comfortably
Yuri
I think it's possible to make it so the big ring is where the center ring should be and the middle ring is where the small would be. I don't think someone would put a double shifter on there but it's possible. You could disconnect the cable from the derailleur and pull it while shifting and see what it does. Better to get someone knowledgeable if you're not sure.
If it turns out the shifter is a double only you could still put a 39 on, I'm pretty sure you can't use a 36 but there may be a 38 non-Shimano that might work.
And if that is a long cage rear derailleur, which would have come on a triple bike, then you could certainly go with a 32 on the rear cassette. That would give you a 39x32 low gear, More expensive than just turning it back into a triple but it would climb easier than 42x23.
If it turns out the shifter is a double only you could still put a 39 on, I'm pretty sure you can't use a 36 but there may be a 38 non-Shimano that might work.
And if that is a long cage rear derailleur, which would have come on a triple bike, then you could certainly go with a 32 on the rear cassette. That would give you a 39x32 low gear, More expensive than just turning it back into a triple but it would climb easier than 42x23.
Many front STG shifters were sold as 2X or 3X with the adjustment limiting the shifter to 2X. I personally would verify the model number of the shifter (printed on the shifter). Internet search will show you where. If you shifter is good for 2X or 3X, verify that the crankset has not been moved inward by sighting the middle ring which should be pointing around the middle of the cassette. If these two are positive, install (or have installed) a 30T ring and adjust the shifting.
09-01-22, 02:01 PM
#33
Miles to Go
I was suggesting that you look at the STI shifter on the handlebar to ensure that it is a triple shifter (which may be used as a double shifter if adjusted that way).
09-01-22, 02:22 PM
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A good chance that the Brifter is also a Triple...
A couple things... 2X brifters never work really well with triple cranks, because the ring spacing is different... Doubles are slightly wider between rings and 2x brifters are set for that. SO doable, but not great... To make a 2x Brifter shift consistently to the inner ring (middle ring on 3x crank), one has to set the limit screw a bit further towards the BB, to get the shift done cleanly. This then allows room for possible chain drop... A 3x brifter set up for 2x using a 3x crankset works fine in the 2x mode, because spacing is not the problem.
OP - IF you can't find the model number on the brifter, there is one thing you can try.
The Brifter will still shift (or try to shift) to the expected 3rd ring/granny, even with the FD limit screw set to not allow the FD to move further inboard.
So, riding (or on a service stand) shift to the inner/middle ring. Then continue to press / shift further with the Brifter... If the Brifter continues to go thru shifting process, you will note a light 'clicking' as the Brifter attempts to shift to the inner/ 3rd ring... this would indicate a 3x brifter .
This doesn't always work because a major part of the shifting process is the pull/tension on the cable and brifter from the FD spring... Without the spring pull, the cable isn;t going to 'pulll' or move in the brifter - but you might still hear the very light 'click' of the brifter... Best is to find the model # under the rubber brifter hood.
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: as big john noted , if the cable was pulled taut for the brifter & FD to be fully 2x, the Brifter may not cycle to the 3rd shift position and the 'click' may not be audible... best to determine the model #...
Last edited by cyclezen; 09-01-22 at 02:30 PM.
09-01-22, 02:44 PM
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Yup, just as big john expected and noted, limit screws adjusted to work with the outer & middle rings as a Double.
A good chance that the Brifter is also a Triple...
A couple things... 2X brifters never work really well with triple cranks, because the ring spacing is different... Doubles are slightly wider between rings and 2x brifters are set for that. SO doable, but not great... To make a 2x Brifter shift consistently to the inner ring (middle ring on 3x crank), one has to set the limit screw a bit further towards the BB, to get the shift done cleanly. This then allows room for possible chain drop... A 3x brifter set up for 2x using a 3x crankset works fine in the 2x mode, because spacing is not the problem.
OP - IF you can't find the model number on the brifter, there is one thing you can try.
The Brifter will still shift (or try to shift) to the expected 3rd ring/granny, even with the FD limit screw set to not allow the FD to move further inboard.
So, riding (or on a service stand) shift to the inner/middle ring. Then continue to press / shift further with the Brifter... If the Brifter continues to go thru shifting process, you will note a light 'clicking' as the Brifter attempts to shift to the inner/ 3rd ring... this would indicate a 3x brifter .
This doesn't always work because a major part of the shifting process is the pull/tension on the cable and brifter from the FD spring... Without the spring pull, the cable isn;t going to 'pulll' or move in the brifter - but you might still hear the very light 'click' of the brifter... Best is to find the model # under the rubber brifter hood.
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: as big john noted , if the cable was pulled taut for the brifter & FD to be fully 2x, the Brifter may not cycle to the 3rd shift position and the 'click' may not be audible... best to determine the model #...
A good chance that the Brifter is also a Triple...
A couple things... 2X brifters never work really well with triple cranks, because the ring spacing is different... Doubles are slightly wider between rings and 2x brifters are set for that. SO doable, but not great... To make a 2x Brifter shift consistently to the inner ring (middle ring on 3x crank), one has to set the limit screw a bit further towards the BB, to get the shift done cleanly. This then allows room for possible chain drop... A 3x brifter set up for 2x using a 3x crankset works fine in the 2x mode, because spacing is not the problem.
OP - IF you can't find the model number on the brifter, there is one thing you can try.
The Brifter will still shift (or try to shift) to the expected 3rd ring/granny, even with the FD limit screw set to not allow the FD to move further inboard.
So, riding (or on a service stand) shift to the inner/middle ring. Then continue to press / shift further with the Brifter... If the Brifter continues to go thru shifting process, you will note a light 'clicking' as the Brifter attempts to shift to the inner/ 3rd ring... this would indicate a 3x brifter .
This doesn't always work because a major part of the shifting process is the pull/tension on the cable and brifter from the FD spring... Without the spring pull, the cable isn;t going to 'pulll' or move in the brifter - but you might still hear the very light 'click' of the brifter... Best is to find the model # under the rubber brifter hood.
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: as big john noted , if the cable was pulled taut for the brifter & FD to be fully 2x, the Brifter may not cycle to the 3rd shift position and the 'click' may not be audible... best to determine the model #...
09-01-22, 03:34 PM
#37
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Why it might currently have shifting issues... first, some term usage understanding - I would understand the following - 'low' on a crank ring is the inner/smaller ring, high the large outer. 'step down' is going from outer ring to inner, and so on.
so. some possible reasons why it shifts consistently from outer to inner ring and doesn't shift properly/fully sometimes from inner to outer ring.
1. Brifter is gunked up with 'dirt' - solution - spray the heck out of the internal of the Brifter with WD40 - I mean spray until it's dripping huge quanitites of WD40 out of the shifter - do it numerous times. work the shifter after each 'bath' - no harm will come to any of the parts or covers... bar tape damage? that depends...
2. shift cable was set taut BEFORE the FD inner set screw was proper adjusted and the outer set screw is also set to 'tight'/close to the final outer position. To shift properly UP to the outer ring, the FD needs to be allowed to move very slightly past the final position. This allows the Brifter mechanism to lock into position. if the set screw is too tightly set, the brifter won;t lock. That combined with dirt from use, will keep the shift from happening consistently. A good service tech will know exactly how to fix/set.
I recommend that BOTH Brifterrs get the WD40 treatment every 4-5 years. Brifters seem to last forever, and function well, if kept clean... I have a pair of 5510s from around 2000, and they work flawlessly, in spite of many miles.
hmmm... learn something new from this... I also have a set of Ultegra 6510 shifters, which are on a double. I now see on the chart that they can also be used with a triple... nice ! learn something new every day!
Ride On
Yuri
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09-01-22, 04:15 PM
#38
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LOL! That was one of a few which was 'designed' to work with both 2x and 3x... See the chart I posted earlier... So good for both. Can be set up nicely as 3x if you get a 30 triple inner ring.
Why it might currently have shifting issues... first, some term usage understanding - I would understand the following - 'low' on a crank ring is the inner/smaller ring, high the large outer. 'step down' is going from outer ring to inner, and so on.
so. some possible reasons why it shifts consistently from outer to inner ring and doesn't shift properly/fully sometimes from inner to outer ring.
1. Brifter is gunked up with 'dirt' - solution - spray the heck out of the internal of the Brifter with WD40 - I mean spray until it's dripping huge quanitites of WD40 out of the shifter - do it numerous times. work the shifter after each 'bath' - no harm will come to any of the parts or covers... bar tape damage? that depends...
2. shift cable was set taut BEFORE the FD inner set screw was proper adjusted and the outer set screw is also set to 'tight'/close to the final outer position. To shift properly UP to the outer ring, the FD needs to be allowed to move very slightly past the final position. This allows the Brifter mechanism to lock into position. if the set screw is too tightly set, the brifter won;t lock. That combined with dirt from use, will keep the shift from happening consistently. A good service tech will know exactly how to fix/set.
I recommend that BOTH Brifterrs get the WD40 treatment every 4-5 years. Brifters seem to last forever, and function well, if kept clean... I have a pair of 5510s from around 2000, and they work flawlessly, in spite of many miles.
hmmm... learn something new from this... I also have a set of Ultegra 6510 shifters, which are on a double. I now see on the chart that they can also be used with a triple... nice ! learn something new every day!
Ride On
Yuri
Why it might currently have shifting issues... first, some term usage understanding - I would understand the following - 'low' on a crank ring is the inner/smaller ring, high the large outer. 'step down' is going from outer ring to inner, and so on.
so. some possible reasons why it shifts consistently from outer to inner ring and doesn't shift properly/fully sometimes from inner to outer ring.
1. Brifter is gunked up with 'dirt' - solution - spray the heck out of the internal of the Brifter with WD40 - I mean spray until it's dripping huge quanitites of WD40 out of the shifter - do it numerous times. work the shifter after each 'bath' - no harm will come to any of the parts or covers... bar tape damage? that depends...
2. shift cable was set taut BEFORE the FD inner set screw was proper adjusted and the outer set screw is also set to 'tight'/close to the final outer position. To shift properly UP to the outer ring, the FD needs to be allowed to move very slightly past the final position. This allows the Brifter mechanism to lock into position. if the set screw is too tightly set, the brifter won;t lock. That combined with dirt from use, will keep the shift from happening consistently. A good service tech will know exactly how to fix/set.
I recommend that BOTH Brifterrs get the WD40 treatment every 4-5 years. Brifters seem to last forever, and function well, if kept clean... I have a pair of 5510s from around 2000, and they work flawlessly, in spite of many miles.
hmmm... learn something new from this... I also have a set of Ultegra 6510 shifters, which are on a double. I now see on the chart that they can also be used with a triple... nice ! learn something new every day!
Ride On
Yuri
Thank you for the answers.. really helpful
09-02-22, 07:19 AM
#39
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I wonder why the previous owner went through the process of removing the 30? I didn’t use the 30T on my Bianchi for over a decade, but leaving it on never bothered me (and it was a godsend when I started grinding up those west coast climbs…).
09-02-22, 06:10 PM
#41
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Probably got yelled at for posting a triple in the hot or not thread.
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