Drop to straight/lever and shifter questions
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Drop to straight/lever and shifter questions
I have been repairing bikes and donating them to a homeless organization. Recently a person donated 2 matching bikes to me to refurbish and re-donate. Both bikes are Schwinn World Sport 10 speeds. I have also received a donation from a bike shop of 2 straight handlebars. I think these bikes would be more functional for the folks who receive them without the drop bars. I have included a picture for my questions. Can I get away with leaving these friction shifters in place? After I change the bars, can I just use some regular inexpensive brake levers like would be on a MB? Since these bikes are 2 x 5's is there an option for using those combination brake and shifter sets? TIA!

#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,621
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2001 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,049 Times
in
714 Posts
Yes, they do......if you don't put any priority on being able to stop. I'd either adapt the straight bars with suitable brake levers or toss the "safety levers" and use the drop bars without them.
Likes For HillRider:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,124
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 818 Post(s)
Liked 438 Times
in
290 Posts
Sure.
Yep. You need short-pull levers, which all of them from this era will be. You probably have a set or two laying around.
Not really. I'm not aware of any indexed shifting options for 2x5 that will fit on flat bars, and almost certainly nothing stem-mounted. For what you're trying to do, keeping those existing friction shifters are the best bet.
Not really. I'm not aware of any indexed shifting options for 2x5 that will fit on flat bars, and almost certainly nothing stem-mounted. For what you're trying to do, keeping those existing friction shifters are the best bet.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,187
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3226 Post(s)
Liked 676 Times
in
449 Posts
Safety levers aren't great, but they do work. I had two bikes with them.
Likes For Kontact:
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies. I was considering this change firstly just because I want to have the experience of doing it. Secondly, this bike, as it is now seems small to me. I am 5' 5" so I assume shorter than the average person who might end up with these. I know you can't "cure" an improper frame size by these types of changes, but I think raising the bars and seat would improve it somewhat. Also, many of the homeless I see are juggling possessions etc. and I think the drop bars would add to the awkwardness. I do have a bike co-op close by where I can probably get the levers cheaply, especially now that the shifters won't have to be changed.
Does anyone know offhand what size bars these use? I can take them off first and measure, but I may want to go to the co-op first. Online I see a lot of 25.4. I assume you would just measure the diameter of the bars where they fit into the stem?
Does anyone know offhand what size bars these use? I can take them off first and measure, but I may want to go to the co-op first. Online I see a lot of 25.4. I assume you would just measure the diameter of the bars where they fit into the stem?
#7
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 388
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
99 Posts
I have been repairing bikes and donating them to a homeless organization. Recently a person donated 2 matching bikes to me to refurbish and re-donate. Both bikes are Schwinn World Sport 10 speeds. I have also received a donation from a bike shop of 2 straight handlebars. I think these bikes would be more functional for the folks who receive them without the drop bars. I have included a picture for my questions.
V brake levers won't work properly with old caliper brakes, you'd need to find cantilever brake levers also that will work with non-indexed gears. Road and MTB handlebars are different diameters so you'll need to check the stem clamp and grip/lever area for a match.
Likes For grumpus:
#8
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 11,944
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3725 Post(s)
Liked 3,168 Times
in
2,112 Posts
I would just leave the bikes alone get them functional lubricated and give them to people who could use them. If you have parts on hand that you are willing to donate to the cause then yeah convert them but don't spend much money on them just a little in labor and maybe some chemicals or minor stuff as needed.
Likes For veganbikes:
#9
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 271
Bikes: Bianchi Nyala, Bianchi Volpe, Bianchi Campione D'Italia, Trek 640, Luxus folding bike, Schwinn Speedster, Bianchi Torino, KHS Aero Sport, probably something else around here somewhere
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Liked 189 Times
in
95 Posts
Don’t let the naysayers dissuade you. It’s a simple enough conversion, and I agree, probably better for the folks who will be getting them.
keep the stem friction shifters or get some cheap bar mount friction shifters. They’re about 15 on Amazon. The stem mounts will be fine though.
Dirt common 25.4 bars will work great.
the stem is probably 25.4, but if it happens to be 26.0 it’s easy to shim with a beer can.
you’ll need brake levers for anything that didn’t have v brakes. If you can scavenge some from an old mtb or an upright Schwinn or something like that, great.
and you’ll need new brake lines.
if you have this stuff laying around it’s pretty easy and a bike like that takes well to an upright conversion.
but if you don’t have this stuff around then the cost will quickly exceed the cost of the bike
keep the stem friction shifters or get some cheap bar mount friction shifters. They’re about 15 on Amazon. The stem mounts will be fine though.
Dirt common 25.4 bars will work great.
the stem is probably 25.4, but if it happens to be 26.0 it’s easy to shim with a beer can.
you’ll need brake levers for anything that didn’t have v brakes. If you can scavenge some from an old mtb or an upright Schwinn or something like that, great.
and you’ll need new brake lines.
if you have this stuff laying around it’s pretty easy and a bike like that takes well to an upright conversion.
but if you don’t have this stuff around then the cost will quickly exceed the cost of the bike
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,112
Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 913 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times
in
221 Posts
You'll need Short pull Brake levers.. Center pull, Canti, ROAD disc,and Side pull brakes use Short pull levers. Measure from the Lever Pivot to the Center of the cable ferrule hole.. Short pull levers measure about 28mm... LONG pull levers (for long reach V-brakes and MTB Disc) measure about 32 to 35mm... This will make finding the correct pull Levers easier when they are just tossed in a box at a Co-op. TEST the lever clamps on YOUR Chosen flat bar to ensure they will fit... and don't let any Burrs on the ends of the bar trick you, Clean the burrs off with a file Before testing.
MTB standard lever bar clamp diameter is 22.2 mm or so.. Road levers are a 24mm lever clamp size, roughly.
oh, and a mismatch of pull length will have you not stopping well, and possibly winding up seeking a new front wheel, front fork, frame, and a good denture sculptor... so don't ask or assume, just MEASURE.
MTB standard lever bar clamp diameter is 22.2 mm or so.. Road levers are a 24mm lever clamp size, roughly.
oh, and a mismatch of pull length will have you not stopping well, and possibly winding up seeking a new front wheel, front fork, frame, and a good denture sculptor... so don't ask or assume, just MEASURE.
Last edited by maddog34; 01-14-23 at 06:08 PM.
Likes For maddog34:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,354
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 437 Times
in
319 Posts
I converted my old (new in 1975) Motobecane from drop bars to "normal" (sort of "moustache" shaped) bars. The stem-mounted shifters work fine. I got an inexpensive set of brake levers to complete the transformation.

47-year-old bike is still pretty comfortable.

47-year-old bike is still pretty comfortable.
Likes For sweeks:
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 388
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
99 Posts
It is a lower end Schwinn I am sure people collect them but it has stem shifters, "safety levers" and a Hi Tensile steel fork it is not worth a ton of money and in the end could provide a bike for someone. When a bike has to highlight "brand name components" not a good sign of a great collector machine.
I would just leave the bikes alone get them functional lubricated and give them to people who could use them. If you have parts on hand that you are willing to donate to the cause then yeah convert them but don't spend much money on them just a little in labor and maybe some chemicals or minor stuff as needed.
#13
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 9,851
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2455 Post(s)
Liked 2,834 Times
in
1,732 Posts
Just pre set them where they'll end up anyway

#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Grumpus: They are both mint, appear to have been bought together. Same size and I am going to check if they have consecutive serial numbers. I understand what you are saying about selling them as is, and donating the money. I received these after requesting donor bikes on a local FB page, and told the person donating that they would be going to a particular organization. I did this before I actually saw the condition of the bikes. I need to follow through on this, though what you suggested may make more sense.
Likes For louky:
#15
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 11,944
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3725 Post(s)
Liked 3,168 Times
in
2,112 Posts
People get nostalgic about bikes from their youth, even if they were W*mart specials. Safety levers were required by law so can be more a measure of the bikes' vintage than their desirability. And yes, when there are stickers proudly proclaiming "18 speed SIS" you know it's not going to be the greatest, but basic specification didn't stop us from having fun BITD.
Agreed - if they're going to be donated I'd just get them working properly, not worth the effort of "upgrading". Could be that someone prefers a "racer" to a mountain bike shaped object anyway.
Agreed - if they're going to be donated I'd just get them working properly, not worth the effort of "upgrading". Could be that someone prefers a "racer" to a mountain bike shaped object anyway.
I don't recall ever reading if those levers were mandated by law. Generally they are found on lower end bikes from what I do recall but I am unsure about mandates but it is possible though this bike is from the 80s so past the 70s bike boom.
louky No don't it is a low end bike read the above. Yes you may get some money for them there are certainly people who have gotten max dollars from a bike that wasn't worth it but the bikes are better off donated and as is (or as little as possible for functionality) Unless the goal is to just donate money the bikes are a better item because they aren't money so they can't go to any overhead or anything like that they can be used as bikes or someone else can try to sell them but in the end they are better as bikes than they would be as money. If these were Paramounts or a higher end Schwinn the conversation would be hugely different but these are almost 40 year old low end bikes. Fine bikes, potentially very rideable but nothing desirable except maybe one or two people and finding that one or two persons interested enough to spend the money to make it barely worthwhile is a lot of work and not worth it.
Make sure the bikes work as decently as possible and give them away and you have done a good thing : )
Likes For veganbikes:
#16
Junior Member

#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,354
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 437 Times
in
319 Posts

Srsly, they look the same to me. I wanted a set of Rivendell "moustache" bars, but they weren't available for some reason, so I went to a random bike shop and found a pair displayed on a wall. $24, IIRC.
EDIT: Nice old lugged-frame Trek!
Last edited by sweeks; 01-15-23 at 09:58 AM.
Likes For sweeks:
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've made a little progress and have a couple of more questions. The current drop bars measured 25.4 mm (it had a thin sleeve on it). The quill stem measured 22mm +. If I am understanding all of the comments, I should be able to use a set of flat bars (or curved bars) from the co-op that measures 25.4 in the middle and a set of levers off an older MB that has a short pull. Could I also get a stem adaptor, and use the handlebars that were donated from a local bike store? These are take-offs from ebikes that are being replaced an on a particular model since the people buying the bikes are requesting swept bars. Here is a link to the adaptor. Amazon.com : UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm 25.4mm 150mm : Sports & Outdoors
Is one of these ideas better than the other? I've included a pic of the donated bars and the current stem.
Is one of these ideas better than the other? I've included a pic of the donated bars and the current stem.

#19
Junior Member
Trek cleaned up well and almost ready to hit the road, just needs front tire and warmer weather.
Op, perhaps you want to go with the cruiser look, so I could ship you the moustache bars. Pm me.
Last edited by XxHaimBondxX; 01-15-23 at 12:41 PM.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,354
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 437 Times
in
319 Posts
That's adding what might be considered unnecessary complexity, plus spending an extra $20 or so on the project. Also, it might be my overactive imagination, but those heavy e-bike bars will look terribly out-of-place on those nice old bikes.
Likes For sweeks:
#21
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 388
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times
in
99 Posts
In your opinion, but I'm not trying to sell it to you.
As difficult as listing it on eBay - yeah, too much effort.
There's nothing wrong with 7 speed cassettes (but getting hard to find good quality replacements. Freewheels are well past their sell by date; I've been surprised that a couple of bikes I've worked on recently (Trek, Liv) still use freewheels.
I got bored of looking through old govt documents searching for the appropriate regulations, maybe I'll try again later.
I got bored of looking through old govt documents searching for the appropriate regulations, maybe I'll try again later.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,290
Bikes: Kirk Custom 85 team Miyata (modern 5800 105) on the sale block , '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 100 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2039 Post(s)
Liked 2,118 Times
in
1,198 Posts
Thanks for all the replies. I was considering this change firstly just because I want to have the experience of doing it. Secondly, this bike, as it is now seems small to me. I am 5' 5" so I assume shorter than the average person who might end up with these. I know you can't "cure" an improper frame size by these types of changes, but I think raising the bars and seat would improve it somewhat. Also, many of the homeless I see are juggling possessions etc. and I think the drop bars would add to the awkwardness. I do have a bike co-op close by where I can probably get the levers cheaply, especially now that the shifters won't have to be changed.
Does anyone know offhand what size bars these use? I can take them off first and measure, but I may want to go to the co-op first. Online I see a lot of 25.4. I assume you would just measure the diameter of the bars where they fit into the stem?
Does anyone know offhand what size bars these use? I can take them off first and measure, but I may want to go to the co-op first. Online I see a lot of 25.4. I assume you would just measure the diameter of the bars where they fit into the stem?
I have helped at a bike charity off and on for years and that work would not be something they would invest time in, when you have a totally functioning bike ready to go, better to invest the time in other areas
certainly can't cure a small bike with bars and a flat bar would make no difference in reach, while a north style bar would reduce reach.
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,290
Bikes: Kirk Custom 85 team Miyata (modern 5800 105) on the sale block , '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 100 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2039 Post(s)
Liked 2,118 Times
in
1,198 Posts
I've made a little progress and have a couple of more questions. The current drop bars measured 25.4 mm (it had a thin sleeve on it). The quill stem measured 22mm +. If I am understanding all of the comments, I should be able to use a set of flat bars (or curved bars) from the co-op that measures 25.4 in the middle and a set of levers off an older MB that has a short pull. Could I also get a stem adaptor, and use the handlebars that were donated from a local bike store? These are take-offs from ebikes that are being replaced an on a particular model since the people buying the bikes are requesting swept bars. Here is a link to the adaptor. Amazon.com : UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm 25.4mm 150mm : Sports & Outdoors
Is one of these ideas better than the other? I've included a pic of the donated bars and the current stem.

Is one of these ideas better than the other? I've included a pic of the donated bars and the current stem.

if you can find a flat bar that fits the stem and brakes that fit the bar have fun, but again no huge added benefit when dealing with a bike for charity (and i have done conversions like this for myself. end up more style and some times more upright riding position
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or whole biked 57,58)
#25
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 11,944
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3725 Post(s)
Liked 3,168 Times
in
2,112 Posts
In your opinion, but I'm not trying to sell it to you.
As difficult as listing it on eBay - yeah, too much effort.
There's nothing wrong with 7 speed cassettes (but getting hard to find good quality replacements. Freewheels are well past their sell by date; I've been surprised that a couple of bikes I've worked on recently (Trek, Liv) still use freewheels.
I got bored of looking through old govt documents searching for the appropriate regulations, maybe I'll try again later.
As difficult as listing it on eBay - yeah, too much effort.
There's nothing wrong with 7 speed cassettes (but getting hard to find good quality replacements. Freewheels are well past their sell by date; I've been surprised that a couple of bikes I've worked on recently (Trek, Liv) still use freewheels.
I got bored of looking through old govt documents searching for the appropriate regulations, maybe I'll try again later.
There was nothing wrong with 7 speed back in the day but now we are up to 12 speed so 7 speed is at the bottom end these days and has been for a while. Old vintage stuff is great but the "new" stuff has gone downhill and then you do have a couple actual downhill groupsets that are specific to downhill bikes.
Sadly a lot of companies are still using low end parts. Trek is using a lot of quill stems and freewheels and charging way too much money for them, Jamis built a new frame and fork in their Coda line up so they could have a lower end option then the sport with a quill stem and freewheel and tourney. It is a sad fact that we are still racing to bottom sometimes. I think decent vintage bikes are great but modern bikes with low end vintage-esque components is just silly.
I remember doing a comparison which happened to be e-bike specific but had a similarly spec'd Trek and Gazelle but for less money you got more with the Gazelle. It is sad that the more expensive bike has worse parts on it.