What have you been wrenching on lately?
#6376
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,543
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 527 Post(s)
Liked 1,803 Times
in
817 Posts
Finished rehabbing a GT Windstream for my neighbor's very tall grandkid. The swoopy chainstay beltstay keeps out of the way of the Gates drive. Removing the rear wheel on this bike requires removing the chain guard belt guard, as the belt is much easier to slip off the front chainring beltring.
Last edited by RCMoeur; 06-04-23 at 12:21 AM.
#6377
Slowfoot
Saw this on eBay from a dealer in Turin. It was nasty but I had a feeling so I made an offer.
It's cleaning up nicely. Maybe late 70s Sannino before he standardized his style and started his company in Turin. There's not much info on him.
Red paint in there, not rust. Mostly his bikes were red. The frame had been rattle can painted white.
Internal RD cable. Portacatena holes. 126 spacing.
I rolled out a small dent in the bottom of the down tube.
After rolling a dimple remains.
Filled with silver solder using oxy acetylene
Filed and sanded.
A previous owner had used letter punches to engrave a word in the right stay cap. Very irritating.
More silver solder. I was nervous doing it but it came out okay.
Likes For dmarkun:
#6378
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,800
Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 426 Times
in
248 Posts
Allez Catastrophé
Used the wrong tools to remove headset cups and fork crown race.
usually I can just tap them out with a screwdriver. I know- you’re thinking buy the right tool for the job
This was after dissolving the quill stem stem in lye.
any way. Now I’m stripping the decals. Bummer velodecals is gone.
usually I can just tap them out with a screwdriver. I know- you’re thinking buy the right tool for the job
This was after dissolving the quill stem stem in lye.
any way. Now I’m stripping the decals. Bummer velodecals is gone.
Likes For mrv:
#6379
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,800
Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 426 Times
in
248 Posts
Originally Posted by Nemosengineer;[url=tel:22906410
22906410[/url]]Paint is stripped. Yea Baby... Next up is cantilever bosses and necessary braze-ons.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Likes For mrv:
#6380
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Murrieta Ca.
Posts: 537
Bikes: Teledyne Titan, Bob Jackson Audax Club, Bob Jackson World Tour, AlAn Record Ergal, 3Rensho Katana.
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 623 Times
in
245 Posts
Well Here We Are... Post paint strip reviled the frame had a zinc phosphate coating that's why it looks dark gray in the the post strip photos, lucky for me it was a very thin coating. Striping of this coating is required to have a brazeable surface, it only took 6 hours to strip that coating using various grades of scotch brite and four brass brushes...
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Brakes Revision 1. Due to the position of the springs of the Avid cantilevers being on the forward side of the brakes and the tight clearances of the frame a change to a more traditional cantilever brake was required. So I present to you "Cheap and Cheerful" Dia-Compe 980 cantilever brakes, the fit works in this application.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Noodle Soup... Under bottom bracket cable routing is required for best routing of the shift cable. So I chased down Cinelli noodles as this is the C&V forum it just was the right thing to do. It only took 2 hours to bring three of these to useable condition, I only need one for this bike so I have two extra for a future project.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Wednesday the frame and stuff will be delivered for braze, so the heat is on and I'm still waiting for parts... I'm very excited, things are going well.
: Mike
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Brakes Revision 1. Due to the position of the springs of the Avid cantilevers being on the forward side of the brakes and the tight clearances of the frame a change to a more traditional cantilever brake was required. So I present to you "Cheap and Cheerful" Dia-Compe 980 cantilever brakes, the fit works in this application.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Noodle Soup... Under bottom bracket cable routing is required for best routing of the shift cable. So I chased down Cinelli noodles as this is the C&V forum it just was the right thing to do. It only took 2 hours to bring three of these to useable condition, I only need one for this bike so I have two extra for a future project.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Wednesday the frame and stuff will be delivered for braze, so the heat is on and I'm still waiting for parts... I'm very excited, things are going well.
: Mike
__________________
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
#6381
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,470 Times
in
2,079 Posts
The British Invasion, Part II
I'm rebuilding 3 British bikes. The first was a 1980 Raleigh Record Ace which I've finished and I've been riding it. The second is a 1979 Viking "European" model which is made of straight gauge Reynolds 531 with campy drop outs. By the late 70s, Viking bikes were built in Northern Ireland. I finished that yesterday and took it out for an 11 mile ride. It's a good riding bike. With suntour ratcheting shifters and a shimano light action rear derailleur, the shifting is very good. The bike originally came with 700c wheels but it fits wheels with 27 by 1 and 1/4 tires nicely. This bike was a parts bin build other than the cables and housing and the 531 sticker which I purchased for the bike. I have no idea why I picked up this frame but I'm glad I finally got it on the road. The last pic is the catalog page for the bike. It originally came with campy gran sport derailleurs.
Last edited by bikemig; 06-07-23 at 03:19 PM.
Likes For bikemig:
#6382
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 558
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
246 Posts
I'm rebuilding 3 British bikes. The first was a 1980 Raleigh Record Ace which I've finished and I've been riding it. The second is a 1979 Viking "European" model which is made of straight gauge Reynolds 531 with campy drop outs. By the late 70s, Viking bikes were built in Northern Ireland. I finished that yesterday and took it out for an 11 mile ride. It's a good riding bike. With suntour retrofriction shifters and a shimano light action rear derailleur, the shifting is very good. The bike originally came with 700c wheels but it fits wheels with 27 by 1 and 1/4 tires nicely. This bike was a parts bin build other than the cables and housing and the 531 sticker which I purchased for the bike. I have no idea why I picked up this frame but I'm glad I finally got it on the road.
Apparently back in the 70's, before the brand was sold, Viking bicycles were actually pretty decent. Should be a nice road touring bicycle
Likes For VintageSteelEU:
#6383
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,470 Times
in
2,079 Posts
The brand was bought by some Indian company, if I remember correctly. I had the displeasure of getting one of those new ones back on the road (curbside find, step over frame, given away to a friend). Absolutely abysmal build quality, they couldn't even get V-brake bosses welded on evenly. Managed to get it working properly again, but gosh, I wish they actually paid some more attention to design and build quality.
Apparently back in the 70's, before the brand was sold, Viking bicycles were actually pretty decent. Should be a nice road touring bicycle
Apparently back in the 70's, before the brand was sold, Viking bicycles were actually pretty decent. Should be a nice road touring bicycle
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viking_Cycle_Company
Here is some info on the N. Ireland Vikings:
https://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2014...e-vikings.html
Likes For bikemig:
#6384
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,744
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 2,921 Times
in
976 Posts
The tinkering has been nonstop, with a lot of time going into refinishing the road rash out of a set of Campy levers that were courtesy of your friend and mine, @Mad Honk McDuck along with new pivot washers. Repro hoods and a lot of elbow grease, and they're looking pretty darn good if I say so myself. The one on the left looked a lot like the one on the right.
After I got those done I was able to take back the drillium Weinmann levers and put my Falcon back together which was the donor for my Paramount build. The wheelset, rear derailleur, crankset, bars, stem, and seatpost ware replaced and the placeholder Brooks Pro is going to be changed to a B17 Imperial that's on it's way from @philbob57. The cranks are contemporary Holdsworth 48/34 from the UK that look proper and are well-suited to the local terrain (after I put a bigger freewheel on), I had a Pat. 11 NR rear that I bought from Sal Corso when I freelanced for Stuyvesant Bicycles almost 45 years ago. Old logo Giro d'Italia bars,narrower than I like but should be fine for the times I ride this one, and I flat-out forgot what stem is on it. SR fluted post. The wheels are high-flange Dura-Ace laced to VO rims from @recarcar. It's sitting pretty once again.
After I got those done I was able to take back the drillium Weinmann levers and put my Falcon back together which was the donor for my Paramount build. The wheelset, rear derailleur, crankset, bars, stem, and seatpost ware replaced and the placeholder Brooks Pro is going to be changed to a B17 Imperial that's on it's way from @philbob57. The cranks are contemporary Holdsworth 48/34 from the UK that look proper and are well-suited to the local terrain (after I put a bigger freewheel on), I had a Pat. 11 NR rear that I bought from Sal Corso when I freelanced for Stuyvesant Bicycles almost 45 years ago. Old logo Giro d'Italia bars,narrower than I like but should be fine for the times I ride this one, and I flat-out forgot what stem is on it. SR fluted post. The wheels are high-flange Dura-Ace laced to VO rims from @recarcar. It's sitting pretty once again.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#6385
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Murrieta Ca.
Posts: 537
Bikes: Teledyne Titan, Bob Jackson Audax Club, Bob Jackson World Tour, AlAn Record Ergal, 3Rensho Katana.
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 623 Times
in
245 Posts
The frame, wheels, brakes, and braze on bits have been delivered to the frame builder. Like a consultation with a surgeon the black marker was taken out, lines and marks were made and notes were taken. The green light was given and soon the torch will be lit...
: Mike
: Mike
__________________
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
#6386
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,744
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 2,921 Times
in
976 Posts
The big PX10 got the Retrofrictions from @75lechamp. I put them on a Simplex band but the rear lever wouldn’t hold its position. They seem happy on this Huret band which is nicer finished than the Prestige band I had. In any case, they shift the SLJ6600 like butter.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
Likes For ascherer:
#6387
Newbie
Motobecane (GT?)
Found this on FB marketplace. It is s missing the rear wheel and discovered upon getting it home that the lugs for the eater bottles, rear brake housing and pump mount had been "removed". Sad, but the frame has no dents or bends. Has Araya/Miche wheel, Suntour Cyclone derailleurs and shifters, Weinmann 610/999 centerpulls, SR crank and seatpost, Vetta saddle and looks like Shimano something brake levers (replaements). There are fairly new hoods. I was not looking for a new project, but I do have an orphan 27" rear wheel (and whitewall tires).
I read in another post here that this has (could have?) Swiss threaded bb cups. Any ideas?
Thanks, DA
I read in another post here that this has (could have?) Swiss threaded bb cups. Any ideas?
Thanks, DA
Likes For DAbiker2023:
#6388
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 558
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
246 Posts
Found this on FB marketplace. It is s missing the rear wheel and discovered upon getting it home that the lugs for the eater bottles, rear brake housing and pump mount had been "removed". Sad, but the frame has no dents or bends. Has Araya/Miche wheel, Suntour Cyclone derailleurs and shifters, Weinmann 610/999 centerpulls, SR crank and seatpost, Vetta saddle and looks like Shimano something brake levers (replaements). There are fairly new hoods. I was not looking for a new project, but I do have an orphan 27" rear wheel (and whitewall tires).
I read in another post here that this has (could have?) Swiss threaded bb cups. Any ideas?
Thanks, DA
I read in another post here that this has (could have?) Swiss threaded bb cups. Any ideas?
Thanks, DA
Likes For VintageSteelEU:
#6389
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,448
Bikes: are fun!
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 466 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times
in
272 Posts
~~~
I worked out a stubborn crank arm situation today. I found these 49d arms for pretty cheap a while back and nabbed ‘em to try out 165 mm crank arms. I like the length very much, but this particular NDS arm always creaked and had questionable threads. Figured I’d find a set in better condition at some point to swap in when it was time to replace the BB. Now’s that time and the threads gave up. A $20 gear puller from Napa resolved it sans drama, which is always nice. This was after trying to work the NDS arm off by riding with the bolt backed out given it was already a goner.
Pretty soft…will use a bolt in the threads should I need it again.
BB shell Evaporust soak while it’s accessible. It was getting a touch crusty as a year-round bike.
Last edited by Sir_Name; 06-10-23 at 07:26 PM.
#6390
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,543
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 527 Post(s)
Liked 1,803 Times
in
817 Posts
I've never had much good luck with jaw pullers on stripped cranks, even after patient application of penetrant and other methods of persuasion (heat, concussive force, strong language). Could be that the resistance that resulted in the puller threads stripping is also mighty enough to laugh off the puller. Glad it worked for you.
__________________
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
#6391
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,448
Bikes: are fun!
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 466 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times
in
272 Posts
I've never had much good luck with jaw pullers on stripped cranks, even after patient application of penetrant and other methods of persuasion (heat, concussive force, strong language). Could be that the resistance that resulted in the puller threads stripping is also mighty enough to laugh off the puller. Glad it worked for you.
Likes For Sir_Name:
#6392
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,543
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 527 Post(s)
Liked 1,803 Times
in
817 Posts
Enjoying the cool mid-90s weather in the back yard while it lasts (rumor has it summer is finally unwelcomely enroute next week). Today was re-covering more crunchy saddles for the Recycle Your Bicycle program this coming fall.
Sun and age take their toll on the cover, but the rest of the saddle is still reusable
Pop the staples and start carefully peeling
Clean pad and frame ready for a replacement cover
Looks like new - ready to go on a foster kid's bike
Using the original under-seat cover attachment hardware whenever I can - looks nicer that way and lasts longer
I was able to knock out 6, but one of them (not pictured) didn't turn out all that smooth, so it'll be reassigned to other duties that require a good-functioning saddle but not necessarily a perfect-looking one.
Sun and age take their toll on the cover, but the rest of the saddle is still reusable
Pop the staples and start carefully peeling
Clean pad and frame ready for a replacement cover
Looks like new - ready to go on a foster kid's bike
Using the original under-seat cover attachment hardware whenever I can - looks nicer that way and lasts longer
I was able to knock out 6, but one of them (not pictured) didn't turn out all that smooth, so it'll be reassigned to other duties that require a good-functioning saddle but not necessarily a perfect-looking one.
Likes For RCMoeur:
#6393
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,653
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Mentioned: 156 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2323 Post(s)
Liked 4,935 Times
in
1,763 Posts
Well this afternoon was spent messing with something only 23 years old. Grabbed this one this afternoon about a mile from the house. Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening giving it a bit of a going over.
A bit grubby when I brought it home and some decent dried up grease on the drivetrain. But really doesn't look like it's seen much use.
How I got it, mostly original
Not stock tires but they are dry rotted.
Hmmm, a mismatch on the shifters but I have that covered in my stash of parts
So I started with a bit of a bath for it. Very few spots of paint damage and I didn't see any dings of any sort. Far amount of dried grease on the bike and drivetrain in spots but to be honest the headset, hubs and BB felt fine as if freshly greased. I'll still check them. The Rolf wheels cleaned up great and show hardly any wear on the break tracks. Cassette looked spotless too one I got all the old dried grease off of it. Cables look recently replaced also.
After cleaning the frame you could see the wonderful Klein paint had held up well. Went over it with some paint polish anyway to really make it pop. Pedals definitely could use a service but I left them alone tonight. Been riding flat pedals since the knee replacement so I'll use these for awhile on this before I put proper pedals on. Never a fan of Rolf wheels so I grabbed a pretty much brand new set of Zonda's I had in the basement, mounted some Vittoria Corsa 700 x 25 tires, moved over the cleaned cassette and swapped them out in place of the Rolfs. Instant 1/2 lb off the bike. Adjusted the brakes for the new wheels, cleaned and oiled the chain and then checked shifting. All seemed good. Adjusted the saddle, fixed the tilt on the handlebars, checked all the other hardware to make sure nothing was loose and then took it down the street for a little test. All seems fine.
Still more to do but how it's sets tonight. 19 lbs 1 oz.
A bit grubby when I brought it home and some decent dried up grease on the drivetrain. But really doesn't look like it's seen much use.
How I got it, mostly original
Not stock tires but they are dry rotted.
Hmmm, a mismatch on the shifters but I have that covered in my stash of parts
So I started with a bit of a bath for it. Very few spots of paint damage and I didn't see any dings of any sort. Far amount of dried grease on the bike and drivetrain in spots but to be honest the headset, hubs and BB felt fine as if freshly greased. I'll still check them. The Rolf wheels cleaned up great and show hardly any wear on the break tracks. Cassette looked spotless too one I got all the old dried grease off of it. Cables look recently replaced also.
After cleaning the frame you could see the wonderful Klein paint had held up well. Went over it with some paint polish anyway to really make it pop. Pedals definitely could use a service but I left them alone tonight. Been riding flat pedals since the knee replacement so I'll use these for awhile on this before I put proper pedals on. Never a fan of Rolf wheels so I grabbed a pretty much brand new set of Zonda's I had in the basement, mounted some Vittoria Corsa 700 x 25 tires, moved over the cleaned cassette and swapped them out in place of the Rolfs. Instant 1/2 lb off the bike. Adjusted the brakes for the new wheels, cleaned and oiled the chain and then checked shifting. All seemed good. Adjusted the saddle, fixed the tilt on the handlebars, checked all the other hardware to make sure nothing was loose and then took it down the street for a little test. All seems fine.
Still more to do but how it's sets tonight. 19 lbs 1 oz.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#6394
Senior Member
650b
650b
Likes For etherhuffer:
#6395
Newbie
No markings on the lugs or dropouts. Looks like a serial # on the steerer (428CI). Serial # bottom of bb shell (4183159). Crankset is SR Spex. Shifters labeled Suntour Power. I'm leaning towards 77-78 Grand Touring because of color (Champagne Gold). Could be GT, GJ, SM, 77-78? I haven't seen a 79 catalog. And then there's that Araya/Miche Competition wheel. Well, anyway, my biggest concern is having the water bottle and top tube brake housing braze-ons replaced. Anyone know anyone in North Florida/South GA that can do that work?
Thanks again for all your inputs,
DA
Thanks again for all your inputs,
DA
#6396
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,448
Bikes: are fun!
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 466 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times
in
272 Posts
No markings on the lugs or dropouts. Looks like a serial # on the steerer (428CI). Serial # bottom of bb shell (4183159). Crankset is SR Spex. Shifters labeled Suntour Power. I'm leaning towards 77-78 Grand Touring because of color (Champagne Gold). Could be GT, GJ, SM, 77-78? I haven't seen a 79 catalog. And then there's that Araya/Miche Competition wheel. Well, anyway, my biggest concern is having the water bottle and top tube brake housing braze-ons replaced. Anyone know anyone in North Florida/South GA that can do that work?
Thanks again for all your inputs,
DA
Thanks again for all your inputs,
DA
EDIT: Here’s a ‘79 catalog
https://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/mot...979/index.html
Mine’s not ‘79…I never really committed the year to memory, I guess! Maybe 80/81, time to figure that out again
Last edited by Sir_Name; 06-11-23 at 11:49 AM.
Likes For Sir_Name:
#6397
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,543
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 527 Post(s)
Liked 1,803 Times
in
817 Posts
It's just been that kind of a week for fixing flats.
__________________
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Likes For RCMoeur:
#6398
blahblahblah chrome moly
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,984
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 2,566 Times
in
1,072 Posts
1954 Sturmey ASC, close-ratio fixed-gear hub
Selling this ASC (sold already) so I took the opportunity to overhaul it, mostly for my own curiosity. I started taking pictures of all the steps but forgot to take the last few, but there's most of the rebuild anyway, for anyone interested: Flickr album
Sharp-eyed viewers will notice, I neglected to remove the secondary Sun gear from the axle, just cleaned it in-situ. That's because I didn't want to bend down the ears of the keeper-washer just to disassemble, then bend them back up after re-assembly. Those ears will break off eventually after being bent up and down enough times, and it's not an easy part to find. Plus, dis- and re-assembly are easier if you leave that alone — win-win.
-Mark B, whose old knees are too weak to ride fixed in hilly Seattle
Last edited by bulgie; 06-11-23 at 02:15 PM.
Likes For bulgie:
#6399
Henderson, NV
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 528
Bikes: Trek Alpha 3700, GT STS DH, Raleigh Grand Prix, Fisher Montare, Fisher CR-7, Fisher Aquila, Diamondback Sorrento, The Bike Beat Revolution, KHS XC 504R
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 588 Times
in
284 Posts
Been working on the Fisher Montare.
Last edited by Desert Ryder; 06-17-23 at 09:27 PM.
Likes For Desert Ryder:
#6400
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,800
Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 426 Times
in
248 Posts
chasing Nemosengineer …
not happy having only one project going, I picked up a SteamRoller frameset with a few bits.
then noticed a Paul hubbed wheelset nearby- which the owner parted with for a very accommodating price- with lots extras.
Ultimately I’m shooting for canti brake 650b with IGH hub. Maybe a 4spd S-A
right now I just want to get a crank set so I can take a spin…. maybe I’ll like it fixed so much I’ll call out good….
My seat and stem added
New bits purchased today
not happy having only one project going, I picked up a SteamRoller frameset with a few bits.
then noticed a Paul hubbed wheelset nearby- which the owner parted with for a very accommodating price- with lots extras.
Ultimately I’m shooting for canti brake 650b with IGH hub. Maybe a 4spd S-A
right now I just want to get a crank set so I can take a spin…. maybe I’ll like it fixed so much I’ll call out good….
My seat and stem added
New bits purchased today
Last edited by mrv; 06-12-23 at 05:50 AM. Reason: shout. shoot. different werds.
Likes For mrv: