ISO and for trade thread part 5
01-29-23, 06:04 PM
#5576
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
When I was putting centre pull brakes (Vainqueur 999) on my Grand Sprint, one of my main concerns was the front cable guide. Basically, the headset I use is Stronglight P3 (or a variant of it) with stack height of around 33mm because it's probably the lowest stack height one can find in French threading. The point of getting that one was to make sure the locknut threads on fully onto a short-ish steerer tube. I can't really go for much more than that, because the locknut might possibly have very little thread to grip onto. So putting an extra spacer in there (like the Weinmann headset cable guide one I'm using right now) makes me a bit anxious. I check the locknut before every ride and it seems to be doing alright, but I'm always a bit paranoid about it.
Tektro have a fork mount cable guide, but it would look out of place on a 70' bicycle and then it's for cantilever brakes, so probably would require some modifications to work with centrepull calipers anyway.
That model 951 or 801 gives me an idea for a custom solution: take a standard Weinmann aluminium spacer (that chunk of aluminium that goes between the calipers and the fork) or just make one, cut a spline into it on the flat side (thus making sure that anything put in there will clear the bottom cup of the headset as well as sit firmly in its position), then take a flat piece of thick steel just wide enough to go into that spline, shape it depending on what is required and add the cable adjuster on top. Looking at my bicycle now, I think the cutout for the cable anchor bolt wouldn't be necessary. I'm probably overthinking it a bit though, because the current solution seems to be working so far. And I guess grinding down a bit of the French serrated washer on its non-serrated side could be a less labour intensive approach.
Thatnks for the link anyway. The reach is probably too much for any of the frames I have (generally one requires more or less 57, 67, the other 57, 57 and one I'm working on will be eventually getting side pulls with 57, 57 reach), but the design is very interesting and uncommon.
Tektro have a fork mount cable guide, but it would look out of place on a 70' bicycle and then it's for cantilever brakes, so probably would require some modifications to work with centrepull calipers anyway.
That model 951 or 801 gives me an idea for a custom solution: take a standard Weinmann aluminium spacer (that chunk of aluminium that goes between the calipers and the fork) or just make one, cut a spline into it on the flat side (thus making sure that anything put in there will clear the bottom cup of the headset as well as sit firmly in its position), then take a flat piece of thick steel just wide enough to go into that spline, shape it depending on what is required and add the cable adjuster on top. Looking at my bicycle now, I think the cutout for the cable anchor bolt wouldn't be necessary. I'm probably overthinking it a bit though, because the current solution seems to be working so far. And I guess grinding down a bit of the French serrated washer on its non-serrated side could be a less labour intensive approach.
Thatnks for the link anyway. The reach is probably too much for any of the frames I have (generally one requires more or less 57, 67, the other 57, 57 and one I'm working on will be eventually getting side pulls with 57, 57 reach), but the design is very interesting and uncommon.
01-29-23, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
There are a few other options to think about- there's a cable guide that clamps to the stem, I think Velo Orange sells one. Maybe not quite as out-of-place looking as the Tektro guide... You could also drill a hole in the 'reach' part of the stem... A little bit tricky, and no doubt there are those who would wail that doing so is courting death, but pretty clean.
Correctly for me means chucking the stem at the correct angle in a vise and using a drill press to first drill the thin (2mm or so) hole for the cable and then the larger 4-5mm "countersink" in the top for the cable housing end, following the thin hole as centerguide.
Try to do this without a drill press and vise is asking for trouble, IMO
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01-29-23, 09:10 PM
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Odd request of the week here. I'm in the process of rehabbing a matched pair of low-end 4-speeds so I can get them out of my hair when weather starts to warm. They'd been stored in a very humid basement, and spokes rusted (which I can address), but some of the nipples are frozen solid, and they're going to have to be cut. Consequently, I'm looking for 6-12 272 mm 14 gauge spokes. Would take more if you have them. Galvanized would match what's on there.
Thanks,
Z
Thanks,
Z
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01-30-23, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
When I was putting centre pull brakes (Vainqueur 999) on my Grand Sprint, one of my main concerns was the front cable guide. Basically, the headset I use is Stronglight P3 (or a variant of it) with stack height of around 33mm because it's probably the lowest stack height one can find in French threading. The point of getting that one was to make sure the locknut threads on fully onto a short-ish steerer tube. I can't really go for much more than that, because the locknut might possibly have very little thread to grip onto. So putting an extra spacer in there (like the Weinmann headset cable guide one I'm using right now) makes me a bit anxious. I check the locknut before every ride and it seems to be doing alright, but I'm always a bit paranoid about it.
The first uses a long Mafac rear brake hanger.
There are long ones, and the short ones won't work.
After that I made one; it really needed to be longer than the Mafac would allow, to avoid a sharp curve in the cable run.
This is a bit of stainless spoke silvers-soldered into the wings of a brass wingnut that's been tapped for a normal adjuster.
(This pic is from the trial-fit - the angle at the bottom has been "adjusted" since.)
Last edited by oneclick; 01-30-23 at 04:33 AM.
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01-30-23, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
I had a similar issue and solved it two ways.
The first uses a long Mafac rear brake hanger.
There are long ones, and the short ones won't work.
After that I made one; it really needed to be longer than the Mafac would allow, to avoid a sharp curve in the cable run.
This is a bit of stainless spoke silvers-soldered into the wings of a brass wingnut that's been tapped for a normal adjuster.
(This pic is from the trial-fit - the angle at the bottom has been "adjusted" since.)
The first uses a long Mafac rear brake hanger.
There are long ones, and the short ones won't work.
After that I made one; it really needed to be longer than the Mafac would allow, to avoid a sharp curve in the cable run.
This is a bit of stainless spoke silvers-soldered into the wings of a brass wingnut that's been tapped for a normal adjuster.
(This pic is from the trial-fit - the angle at the bottom has been "adjusted" since.)
Something to look into sometime.What I use is this:
As mentioned, so far I'm just checking the locknut on that headset to make sure nothing comes apart during a ride. Which isn't a huge issue and so far I didn't notice the locknut coming loose. This might be something to look into if I were to sell the bicycle.
There was another solution I was looking into, which was Nitto stem mounted cable guide. They do look reasonable. The prices aren't what I would call reasonable (some £30 in the UK) and they are not always easy to find. But they do look like an elegant design. I was thinking about getting one, but then I wanted the bicycle to use solutions or components which would be available back in mid 80's. The whole bicycle uses components from before 1987 (hubs are 87' I think, though older design Atom, rims are MA2, so introduced in 86') and the idea is to keep it this way as much as possible.
01-30-23, 06:36 PM
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You could use one of the Surly seat-post binder-bolt hangers (very similar to oneclick 's solution). Surly isn't the only company making one, and I think there are various lengths...
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01-31-23, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
You could use one of the Surly seat-post binder-bolt hangers
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01-31-23, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Odd request of the week here. I'm in the process of rehabbing a matched pair of low-end 4-speeds so I can get them out of my hair when weather starts to warm. They'd been stored in a very humid basement, and spokes rusted (which I can address), but some of the nipples are frozen solid, and they're going to have to be cut. Consequently, I'm looking for 6-12 272 mm 14 gauge spokes. Would take more if you have them. Galvanized would match what's on there.
Thanks,
Z
Thanks,
Z
Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.
I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
01-31-23, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
Have you tried blasting the frozen spoke nipple for 5-6 seconds with a pencil-tipped propane torch?
Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.
I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.
I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
Interesting idea, but I haven't because I don't have one. Do you think one of those long-tipped lighters they sell for lighting charcoal grills would work?
Still need at least one spoke though because one snapped. I have two or three sets of wheels I'll need to build for other projects, so will tuck whatever 272s I need into that order.
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01-31-23, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
Have you tried blasting the frozen spoke nipple for 5-6 seconds with a pencil-tipped propane torch?
Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.
I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.
I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
Cheers,
Van
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01-31-23, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by senior ryder 00
great idea! i even have one of those torches.
Cheers,
van
Cheers,
van
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01-31-23, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
reminder; remove tire, tube and rim tape from the wheel first!
!
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01-31-23, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Quite interesting solutions. I like the second one more. Though soldering is definitely not my forte Something to look into sometime.
What I use is this:
As mentioned, so far I'm just checking the locknut on that headset to make sure nothing comes apart during a ride. Which isn't a huge issue and so far I didn't notice the locknut coming loose. This might be something to look into if I were to sell the bicycle.
There was another solution I was looking into, which was Nitto stem mounted cable guide. They do look reasonable. The prices aren't what I would call reasonable (some £30 in the UK) and they are not always easy to find. But they do look like an elegant design. I was thinking about getting one, but then I wanted the bicycle to use solutions or components which would be available back in mid 80's. The whole bicycle uses components from before 1987 (hubs are 87' I think, though older design Atom, rims are MA2, so introduced in 86') and the idea is to keep it this way as much as possible.
Something to look into sometime.What I use is this:
As mentioned, so far I'm just checking the locknut on that headset to make sure nothing comes apart during a ride. Which isn't a huge issue and so far I didn't notice the locknut coming loose. This might be something to look into if I were to sell the bicycle.
There was another solution I was looking into, which was Nitto stem mounted cable guide. They do look reasonable. The prices aren't what I would call reasonable (some £30 in the UK) and they are not always easy to find. But they do look like an elegant design. I was thinking about getting one, but then I wanted the bicycle to use solutions or components which would be available back in mid 80's. The whole bicycle uses components from before 1987 (hubs are 87' I think, though older design Atom, rims are MA2, so introduced in 86') and the idea is to keep it this way as much as possible.
01-31-23, 10:56 PM
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ISO: Araya Aero2 (ADX-2) tubular rim, silver. Prefer a 32h, but I'll consider any drilling. Lots of 1s and 4s floating around, but looking for a 2.
Have: lots of other tubular rims, or other stuff that could be of interest.
Have: lots of other tubular rims, or other stuff that could be of interest.
02-01-23, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AJI125
I just remembered I picked up an old Dia Compe set (note the red label but not “Drop Forged and the grey tint) getting two 750s for my Fuji and one came with this cable stop contraption, it mounts between the bolt and backplate. Roller and cable adjuster, oddity!
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02-02-23, 01:53 AM
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hey ehcoplex, that pic with the cable going through the to of the Nitto stem……
How is that bell attached?
How is that bell attached?
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02-02-23, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
hey ehcoplex, that pic with the cable going through the to of the Nitto stem……
How is that bell attached?
How is that bell attached?
02-02-23, 11:58 AM
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Big discussion on the frame builders forum on the intelligence of drilling a stem. Some say instant death, others say they do it all day.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
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02-02-23, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Big discussion on the frame builders forum on the intelligence of drilling a stem. Some say instant death, others say they do it all day.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
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02-02-23, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by shoota
The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it creates a stress riser in some stems, that will eventually crack.
So I surmise (and have not had UL testing done) that there is very little critical stress in that part of a typical quill stem, that gives rise to any real and present danger...stress riser or not.
But...YMMV
02-03-23, 01:12 PM
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Free 700C Front Wheel and Tire- Atlanta ITP
It's not vintage but it's a good wheel. Tire is a 700x 32C Continental Touring Plus. If there is a better forum to offer parts for free then please advise. I have this listed on cl but I will gladly gift it to any Bike Forums member who wants it for their own use. Please send a dm to arrange pickup.
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/b...585004714.html
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/b...585004714.html
02-07-23, 11:21 AM
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ISO Cyclone FD & RD...
Yeah, I know there are plenty on eBay, but just figured I'd ask here first... Looking for a F & R Suntour Cyclone derailleur set, ideally the earlier version, GT rear.. Crusty and dusty is fine, as long as working/all there. Thx!
edit- found a set.
edit- found a set.
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02-08-23, 03:32 PM
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02-14-23, 10:54 AM
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ISO - Road pedals. English threaded. Platform, SPD or combo. Low - mid end preferred. Cosmetics not a concern. Hoping to locate 2-3 pairs in all.
Have various items available for trade.
Have various items available for trade.
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02-14-23, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
ISO - Road pedals. English threaded. Platform, SPD or combo. Low - mid end preferred. Cosmetics not a concern. Hoping to locate 2-3 pairs in all.
Have various items available for trade.
Have various items available for trade.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
