Clunker 100 Challenge #8
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I picked up that late 70s Peugeot UO 10 I'm using this year because it was only $40 and it's a good riding bike. My first good bike was an 80s UO 10 which I bought in London.
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And it begins
I retrieved the rustiest LeTour in the state and went to work this evening after supper. The seatpost came out first before I put the bike on the stand. I am so grateful that all the parts came off without drama or trauma this time! There IS a little bend in the left seat stay, but if it bothers me enough I'll figure out a way to straighten it - or maybe I'll just run it as-is. As bad as it looks, I think everything, including the chain, will work okay once it's cleaned and de-rusted.



Last edited by rustystrings61; 04-25-22 at 06:21 AM.
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It is good that solvents and other cleaning products are not budget items. I tried several toxic mixes to remove gel saddle ooze from my hands after transporting the Impact Pro.

Use gloves.

Use gloves.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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#31
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^^^^^
That is the saddest saddle I’ve ever seen
That is the saddest saddle I’ve ever seen
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As luck would have it I encountered a possible candidate at an estate sale yesterday morning after reading this thread.
Mid-70's Schwinn Traveler III for $45.
Nothing fab, but is in the proper size category.
Mid-70's Schwinn Traveler III for $45.
Nothing fab, but is in the proper size category.
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I purchased a Peugeot UO8 10 years ago for $65.00, do I need to adjust for inflation?
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Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist trying to decide between a "rare" 35 pound Pegasus described in this review with such glowing terms as "durable" and "adequate", an unbranded thing offered as "old steel frame road bike" complete with large rust patches on the seat tube and down tube, an equally rusty Schwinn Suburban 5-speed with the largest front basket I've ever seen, or a Nishiki Japan Champion with stem shifters and turkey levers. And, frankly, all four of those are better than I expected to find. I'm going to look at the rusty old steel frame road bike today and thinking about trying to buy the other three too.
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If so, you're over budget already!
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Does buying a project-specific bike tool to service a bb count against the total cost? I think this stupid cruiser bb one piece crank needs another tool I don’t already own.

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I don't think you are (bad at hunting bargains). I think there are places in the US that are gold mines for low price, classic/vintage, pieces of poop AND grail barn finds. South Carolina is absolutely not one of them. Then there are those areas where great vintage stuff is available, but in a high demand area. That would be you, Seattle, NY, San Fran, etc...
Boston (old houses and barns), Pennsylvania, Kentucky, NC piedmont/mountains, Florida, Minneapolis seem to be the places.
@Clang finds a bundle everywhere.
Boston (old houses and barns), Pennsylvania, Kentucky, NC piedmont/mountains, Florida, Minneapolis seem to be the places.
@Clang finds a bundle everywhere.
Every year, this contest reminds me just how bad I am at bargain hunting. I was just looking at the "after" pictures of this bike and thinking, "Wait! How is that under $108?"
Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist trying to decide between a "rare" 35 pound Pegasus described in this review with such glowing terms as "durable" and "adequate", an unbranded thing offered as "old steel frame road bike" complete with large rust patches on the seat tube and down tube, an equally rusty Schwinn Suburban 5-speed with the largest front basket I've ever seen, or a Nishiki Japan Champion with stem shifters and turkey levers. And, frankly, all four of those are better than I expected to find. I'm going to look at the rusty old steel frame road bike today and thinking about trying to buy the other three too.
Meanwhile, I'm looking at Craigslist trying to decide between a "rare" 35 pound Pegasus described in this review with such glowing terms as "durable" and "adequate", an unbranded thing offered as "old steel frame road bike" complete with large rust patches on the seat tube and down tube, an equally rusty Schwinn Suburban 5-speed with the largest front basket I've ever seen, or a Nishiki Japan Champion with stem shifters and turkey levers. And, frankly, all four of those are better than I expected to find. I'm going to look at the rusty old steel frame road bike today and thinking about trying to buy the other three too.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
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@Clang finds a bundle everywhere.
These Clunker Challenges always get me looking extra hard at local listings and right now the most interesting bikes are too far north of the Twin Cities for me to seriously consider. Usually I'd expect to find mountain bikes for cheap, but right now it's 70's road bikes...
This ($60?) Batavus Tour de l'Europe with an upgraded crankset. It looks like it's maybe a 24" frame (though it's hard to tell with bad pics)- an inch too big but perhaps within the fudge-factor range.

And this $50 Opaque Blue Schwinn Super Sport since I've always wanted to try the comfy ride of fillet-brazed Schwinns.

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Pickings for project bikes are pretty slim were I'm at In Fairplay Colorado so it looks like I will be going with a bike from my small death pile that was a free curb find a late 80's Motiv Stone Grindr mountain bike shaped object and a bunch of junk salvage low parts from the pile. The following is a pic of my starting point that I took earl today in keeping with spirat of the clinker I'm gonna guess FMV of $50 for the pile as my starting point which should leave me $50 to finish a build.

Don't think I stand much of chance of getting a good bike or winning.

I know it won't be anywhere near the level of my last clunker bike the Schwinn Mesa GSX which I sill ride regularly.

Don't think I stand much of chance of getting a good bike or winning.

I know it won't be anywhere near the level of my last clunker bike the Schwinn Mesa GSX which I sill ride regularly.
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I spent another $8.80 today to build a Faux Nitto threadless stem adapter. At first I was disappointed with the 1 1/8” always obsolete threaded steerer but it turned out that 1” 6061 tubing is available locally. Now I need to source a front brake cable hanger. This bar and stem are place holders to probably make way for a shorter stem and mustache bars. The TT is 62 cm CTC which is 5 more than my ideal but it doesn’t feel bad in the garage. The saddle height is my preferred height and the saddle to bar drop is 5cm while my road bikes are 6-7. The BB on this Schwinn is really high like a Ridley CX bike. I’ve been thinking of racing again. Anyone interested in a Clunker CX Challenge?


6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?


6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?
Last edited by Classtime; 04-15-22 at 02:54 PM.
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#41
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Interestingly, after I responded to Andy_k an interesting one popped back up on FB MP feed. I had forgotten about it. Messaged the seller, and so for $50...
My goal this year is to complete 62.5 miles on 4 bicycles. The two from last year that did not get the ride time they deserved (9 on Bumblebeena Nishiki, and around 20 on Slimestone Peugeot), and this and the Schwinn Kom previously mentioned. Glad narhay inflated to $108, since that gives me a chance to replace something on the Schwinn if necessary (I spent $100 already on it).
I don't like failing to complete things.

My goal this year is to complete 62.5 miles on 4 bicycles. The two from last year that did not get the ride time they deserved (9 on Bumblebeena Nishiki, and around 20 on Slimestone Peugeot), and this and the Schwinn Kom previously mentioned. Glad narhay inflated to $108, since that gives me a chance to replace something on the Schwinn if necessary (I spent $100 already on it).
I don't like failing to complete things.


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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
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I bought the "old steel frame road bike" and for the second year in a row I feel like I'm probably going to end up with a bike that's far too nice for this challenge. The frame is every bit as rusty as I said, but the components appear to be in great shape. Honestly, I could ride this the way it is. The seller was asking $75 but was kind enough to let me have it for $60, so I should have room in the budget for things like tubes, cables, and bar tape to make it reliable. The tires look like they'll survive 100 km. I'm planning to strip it down to bare metal and repaint it.
Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.

Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.

Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
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#43
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That’s an exceptional buy. What is the marquee?
I bought the "old steel frame road bike" and for the second year in a row I feel like I'm probably going to end up with a bike that's far too nice for this challenge. The frame is every bit as rusty as I said, but the components appear to be in great shape. Honestly, I could ride this the way it is. The seller was asking $75 but was kind enough to let me have it for $60, so I should have room in the budget for things like tubes, cables, and bar tape to make it reliable. The tires look like they'll survive 100 km. I'm planning to strip it down to bare metal and repaint it.
Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.

Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
Curiously, the components are almost identical to those on the Takara that I entered in last year's edition of the challenge. The front derailleur is different, but rear derailleur, crankset, shifters, brakes, and brake levers are all the same. That's nice because I was really happy with those bits on the Takara.

Now for a bit of research to see if I can figure out what brand and model this is.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
#44
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The seller had no idea, but it turned out there were enough clues to make it an easy search, starting with the Sakae Centurion handlebars. The serial number matches the N(1) format in @T-Mar's Asian serial number database, which is consistent with Centurion. The serial number is N9S8262, indicating a 1979 model. The parts spec is an exact match for the Centurion Elite in the 1979 Centurion catalog. The catalog says it was only available in maroon or cobalt blue, but maybe they started offering green late in the year. There's also a paint drip near the seat cluster, so maybe it was repainted.
So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite
That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite
That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
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Last edited by Andy_K; 04-15-22 at 04:52 PM.
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#45
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The seller had no idea, but it turned out there were enough clues to make it an easy search, starting with the Sakae Centurion handlebars. The serial number matches the N(1) format in @T-Mar's Asian serial number database, which is consistent with Centurion. The serial number is N9S8262, indicating a 1979 model. The parts spec is an exact match for the Centurion Elite in the 1979 Centurion catalog. The catalog says it was only available in maroon or cobalt blue, but maybe they started offering green late in the year. There's also a paint drip near the seat cluster, so maybe it was repainted.
So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite
That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
So, I'm calling it -- 1979 Centurion Elite
That would make the frame Tange Champion in the three main tubes with a Tange Hi-Ten fork.
Joking aside, pearl green and spray painted silver lugs would be too cool.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
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#47
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#48
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This challenge being what it is though, I'm going to go with paint that I already have on hand. When I painted the lugs on my Allez a couple of years ago, I bought two shades of red to see which matched best. So now I have a nearly fully can of Sunrise Red. That will go great with the white saddle and some white bar tape, maybe some white cables too if I still have some from my bulk roll. This bike originally had very fancy pinstriping. I'm not up to recreating that, but I have some Sharpie paint pens that I've been meaning to use to try my hand at lug lining. The font for the original decals was very basic, so I think I can match that with lettering.com cheapo vinyl decals.
The vintage-centurion.com site won't let me share their picture here (despite it being copied from a scan on velobase), but here's a link to a page that has the catalog picture for this bike: Centurion Elite RS/Super
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#49
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The color on this bike does look like it was probably very nice once. Also, by an odd coincidence, it looks fairly similar to the color of the bike I had when I was in high school (though that one wasn't nearly this nice).
This challenge being what it is though, I'm going to go with paint that I already have on hand. When I painted the lugs on my Allez a couple of years ago, I bought two shades of red to see which matched best. So now I have a nearly fully can of Sunrise Red. That will go great with the white saddle and some white bar tape, maybe some white cables too if I still have some from my bulk roll. This bike originally had very fancy pinstriping. I'm not up to recreating that, but I have some Sharpie paint pens that I've been meaning to use to try my hand at lug lining. The font for the original decals was very basic, so I think I can match that with lettering.com cheapo vinyl decals.
The vintage-centurion.com site won't let me share their picture here (despite it being copied from a scan on velobase), but here's a link to a page that has the catalog picture for this bike: Centurion Elite RS/Super
This challenge being what it is though, I'm going to go with paint that I already have on hand. When I painted the lugs on my Allez a couple of years ago, I bought two shades of red to see which matched best. So now I have a nearly fully can of Sunrise Red. That will go great with the white saddle and some white bar tape, maybe some white cables too if I still have some from my bulk roll. This bike originally had very fancy pinstriping. I'm not up to recreating that, but I have some Sharpie paint pens that I've been meaning to use to try my hand at lug lining. The font for the original decals was very basic, so I think I can match that with lettering.com cheapo vinyl decals.
The vintage-centurion.com site won't let me share their picture here (despite it being copied from a scan on velobase), but here's a link to a page that has the catalog picture for this bike: Centurion Elite RS/Super
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981? Faggin, 1996ish Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe (most not finished of course), 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba...I...am...done....
#50
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Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed
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I spent another $8.80 today to build a Faux Nitto threadless stem adapter. At first I was disappointed with the 1 1/8” always obsolete threaded steerer but it turned out that 1” 6061 tubing is available locally. Now I need to source a front brake cable hanger. This bar and stem are place holders to probably make way for a shorter stem and mustache bars. The TT is 62 cm CTC which is 5 more than my ideal but it doesn’t feel bad in the garage. The saddle height is my preferred height and the saddle to bar drop is 5cm while my road bikes are 6-7. The BB on this Schwinn is really high like a Ridley CX bike. I’ve been thinking of racing again. Anyone interested in a Clunker CX Challenge?


6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?


6061 is good. Right?

XO XO XO XO?
Last edited by zukahn1; 04-15-22 at 06:47 PM.