Troul 

JB Weld is not going to work. Cannot stress it enough.

a letter to your congress rep might be of future help, if not for you, but for your community.

I would consider looking into making friends with someone that may lend some transportation assistance. Def give them ample enough time & money to compensate for there time. It'll likely be far cheaper than any of the other options you've described.

alcjphil

A misnomer, JB Weld is not a weld. It is a glue. A very strong glue to be sure but not up to the task of holding a steel axle together. Please rethink your plan

tessellahedron

I think this is the exact replacement but I'm hoping the company will reply to my messages and confirm before I order. It's $35 shipped, no returns. If I don't hear from them I may just order anyway at 5pm tomorrow.
https://bicyclepartsdirect.com/shop/...26tpi-x-137mm/

There's also the 10mm axle that I might be able to cut to fit.
Bike Hub Parts - HUB AXLE SET REAR WM
It is much cheaper and includes the cones. I measured the inside diameter of the hub and it's 11.6mm so no problem there, it could take a much thicker axle. The problem is what oldbobcat said after the link
How am I supposed to know? They don't give any information on that page so I would have assumed it was a standard.

I gotta get this ordered right away but I'm also looking at different bikes. I've repaired too many things on this bike in the past year. I have enough gift card credit that I should probably buy one on Amazon if anyone knows a cheap fast road bike that won't break down or require too much bike shop service (I have many of the tools but serious problems or hard to find parts limit what I can do and there isn't a real mechanic to take it to).

jccaclimber

1. Buying a different rear wheel may also be an option vs. replacing the bike. Cheap bikes seldom hold up, particularly the spokes.
2. I’ve tried to explain this once already, the male thread will be smaller than the nominal size. Your 10.2 mm dropouts will be a bit bigger than the nominal size. Both of these point to a 10 mm axle.
3. You can probably buy a cheap pitch gauge, or fit the axle against a screw at the hardware store. You don’t need the diameter to be the same, just the pitch to check for a match. Your theory on pitch seems reasonable based on your measurement, but seeing as you have calipers you should be able to check both. After 1 inch the 25.4 (1 mm pitch) should be almost exactly a half thread off of 26 TPI, not a tiny bit.

tessellahedron

the cones are seized and I can't access more than about 8mm of threads in one spot.

I could break out the solvents, vice grips and a blow torch but I'm too lazy for that when I can measure the wheel and bike instead. This whole thing is stupid and I may just order both axles and a new bike.

tessellahedron

I don't see anything less than $300-$500 that sparks my interest. Is that still what you consider cheap?

there's some kick ass bikes in the $500-$1k range but will I really see performance and reliability improvements commensurate with a doubled price?

$100 for a wheel or even $40 for an axle is hard to justify when a new and likely more reliable bike is $300.

the ten speed was great for groceries for about 3 years but in the past year I've been doing 30 mile rides periodically and I've replaced 15 or 20 rear spokes and rebuilt that freewheel 3 or 4 times. It took 8 months to find and acquire the right puller since the one in my specialty tool kit didn't even fit. Buying low priced spokes was a serious mistake and I had to buy a tensionometer to get more accurate (I got the cheap uncalibrated one for 1/5 the cost and only use it for evening tension). I still break undished spokes and was about to increase spoke tension all around when half the axle fell out.

jccaclimber

Is it safe to assume you have access to the proper closed end or cone wrenches and a pair of vise grips or a bench vise to hold the axle stub if needed? They often take some cleaning and a good grip, but seized is not common.

Depends on the bike. A name brand in the <$1000 range is probably ok. It seems like every time I've seen someone put any real miles on a <$500 generic bicycle or <$1000 internet special (read: Bikesdirect or similar) they start breaking spokes and end up needing new wheels after a couple thousand miles. I have a tendency of attracting people with bike problems they want fixed, so I don't know if it's all of them, or if I'm getting a non-uniform subset.

I'm not sure you'll find a new and reliable bike for $300. I also think given your lack of local shops that some basic tools and spare parts should probably be included in your budget. It's a bit harder without a local co-op, but the internet does have a lot of resources, both the Park videos as well as forums.

​​​​​​​Unfortunately an improperly built wheel will eat spokes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Unfortunately replacing the broken spoke doesn't repair the fatigue damage to all of the other remaining spokes. I've seen one or two exceptions, but once I see more than 2 or perhaps 3 spokes break in a couple year period I assume the wheel either needs to have all of the spokes replaced, or simply replace the wheel. Knowing you're popping spoke constantly I would at a minimum replace the wheel vs. just the axle. As to if you want to make the larger expense to the rest of the bike, I'd need to know more about the past issues. If the other repairs were bearing related, brake pads, cables, adjustments, etc. I wouldn't feel at all bad about repairing what you already have.

oldbobcat

You just have to eyeball it. It doesn't have to be exact. If the the outside diameter, inside diameter, and curves of the races are reasonably close, you're in business.

I once tried one of those cheap sets in a Specialized wheel I pulled from the dumpster. It rolled nicely in the truing stand, but after a few miles it would flutter under braking. Since I had no idea what the original cones looked like, back into the dumpster it went.

tessellahedron

Different colored bearing balls on each side?




started at 6:30am. Half mile test ride was fine. I still need the right axle ASAP, but first I'm going to sleep!

crap too many pictures. This will be 2 posts.

tessellahedron

bboy314

The different colored bearings on one side were probably wearing/grinding more than the other, essentially tarnishing them. I see this often when one cone or cup is pitted, such as from a bent axle. Is the axle held together by the cone? I think this “fix” will be very short lived.

tessellahedron

I suspect the skewer will fail long before the cone fractures in the radial plane, but ultimately I concur.

I've heard that too, plus the broken axle had 25 miles on it before I even knew, and it shows.

based on my experience I'd say having the skewer adjusted fairly tight reduces the risk of catastrophe upon axle breakage. I am curious if there's a way to prevent the chain jumping for any reason, because I've almost eaten it hard more than once when the chain jumped right as I stood up.

I'm gonna put ten gentle miles on it right now and see how the bearing hold up. It's acting like a freshly rebuilt hub. The wheel is spinning with less drag or play than I've ever seen but if anything falls out of alignment I'll be getting a great workout changing the color of the breathing balls.

if I end up walking I'm ordering a new bike today, thought what I really want are cones and an axle that fit, in addition to a 2nd bike.

tessellahedron

the freshly rebuilt hub was dead silent. Now there's noise, but so little I can't hear it unless I take the chain off the freewheel.

It's gonna get louder and louder, then hotter too, and at some point just completely go to **** and be un-rideable.

I increased spoke tension a lot when I trued the wheel this time and none broke so hopefully it stays that way. They're all +/-20% per the park tool wheel app and my uncalibrated tensionometer. Had to sacrifice some lateral trueing and widen the brake but it's worth it to stop breaking spokes.

I'll ride this gently, monitoring closely, and get an axle asap. I think that's all there is to say.

tessellahedron

The axle recommended by oldbobcat is the best deal if it fits. Bike parts USA isn't accepting orders but I think I found it on Amazon. The only problem is that in the questions two other customers say the axle is 130mm long. He said 141mm and I'd trim it.

this is specified as: RR 10x1x130x141

I get the 10mm diameter, 1mm thread pitch, but what are the other two numbers?

my best guest is the other customers are measuring wrong. 130mm OLD and 141mm length.

it's $10 so I'm gonna take a chance on the diameter (should fit) and cone shape if the length is 141mm.

now that I know a new wheelmaster wheel is $63 on Amazon I feel stupid for wasting hours axle hunting and the question of whether a $35+ bare axle will fit is irrelevant.

bboy314

I believe you’re correct that those numbers indicate 130 OLD and 141 total length. If you trim it, screw a cone and locknut down first so you can unscrew them to help smooth the threads where you’ve cut.

tessellahedron

I just placed the order! Thank you for the advice (you and everyone who replied).

tessellahedron

I ordered the axle on August 17th but it never arrived. I checked the tracking number every day and finally had to just get a refund because it never showed.

the temporary repairs worked about as well as I expected. I did it 3 or 4 times and they lasted between 120 and 160 miles each before breaking again. I learned that an axle cut off nearly flush with the locknut actually works fine long term per sheldon brown (and now my experience too). With more length to work with I could have done a much better repair and the first one might still be intact. We'll never know.

After riding home on it broken multiple times, the bearing cup fractured and I stopped repairing the axle. Somehow even with the cup in 4 pieces, just set inside the hub, the bike still rode fine with no indication of anything wrong other than substantial lateral play in the rear wheel.

Right around this time I bought a gravel bike, so this junker is literally only for grocery trips now, maybe 5 miles per week. However, yesterday I observed that it's getting a little harder to pedal and the wheel doesn't seem to spin as long.

After the new axle got lost in the mail I researched wheels. A $75 bike really shouldn't get a new $70 wheel, but bike parts USA lists the exact wheel I need (wheel master 6404) for $33.99! Probably $45 total but that would be ok.

27 inch Bike Wheels - Wheels Wheel Master 27in Road

the problem is I can't order it. The page says something about a change in ownership and the shopping cart will be deactivated during the transition, but it's been like that for over 2 months now.

does anyone know what's going on there, or a different website with similar price? The next best price I found was a seller on Walmart.com for $61 total. Remember I have no local options.

I'm thinking about just replacing the bike. Walmart has a $98 huffy "mountain" bike that looks like total junk. I need something that's total junk, but it has active suspension and knobby tires for use on pavement.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Huffy-26-...5?athbdg=L1100

Where can I get total junk that's just low-end, not truly silly and pointless? What to look for? I spent all my free time for nearly a week shopping gravel bikes before i ordered but I was shopping in the $800-1500 range. For a grocery bike I'm thinking under $200 and hoping you have suggestions that will speed things up. Thanks in advance

HillRider

Do you have a local Craigs List? They usually have dozens of listings for low end but functional utility bikes at low to give-away prices. Older Schwinns seem to predominate.

tessellahedron

I have no car and in a town of 1200 people, no freecycle or craigslist. I heard there's a Facebook group but I hate Facebook.

I have to go to Denver at some point so that might actually work if the right bike is posted while I'm there. Thanks!


About 20 miles on dirt roads from my apartment you will find the NE corner of Colorado. i76 and/or i80 are visible most of the way but no one stops and you definitely can't catch an uber.

McCycle

Dealing with a broken rear axle on old Raleigh with vintage Japan components.

Bike shop sold me a 3/8 x 26TPI axle, which did not jive with my cones, that don't look so hot.



I bought an old/new axle set just for the new cones, and also found the axle I needed 10x1x131mm on feeBay, although I have yet to see it, even though coming from the same state.

Also picked up a 500 ball assortment of BC Precision ball bearings in the popular sizes, as well as some Park grease.

Owning any old bikes and new having replacement balls/grease on hand would be madness.



The axle from the bike shop measure 3/8" x 26TPI x 135mm and I can't use it.

McCycle

The bike I'm working on I've never ridden and paid nothing for, so how much should I spend on it, if spending is commensurate with original price? I'm now into it for near $300 in parts, pieces and tools. Had I only paid money for the bike, say $20, then my ceiling for repairs would have been the same, had I only known this before I started.


Friends don't let friends ride Walmart bikes.

tessellahedron

Probably true, at least if you like your friends.

I suggest posting your bike in the valuations thread and asking for opinions.

I thought I had a real gem in this 70s schwinn 10-speed. I got it for free but my sister claimed there was a matching one on Ebay for over $400 so I figured it was "vintage" in a good way.

The valuations people gave it $100 +/- $25 based on the local market. Since there really is no local market in a tiny town like this one I'm assuming $75 max.

knowing that I would not have just put a $45 front tire on it last spring. Even with a new rear wheel it has other issues, so it's pretty "vintage" in a bad way.

McCycle

I'm finding used wheels in that size to be extremely scarce. In the old days I would have bought some high end 10 speed with flat tires for $50 and replaced both wheels as a set, but not so this go around.

tessellahedron

I was finding them on Amazon but the key seems to be knowing how to read the descriptions. Many sellers measure incorrectly or include incomplete info so its good to know what exists and what doesn't.

the one I think might fit my bike is:
HUB AXLE SET RR WM 10x1x130x141QR7sCRMO

I think "hub axle set" means it has cones and locknuts
rear
wheels master
10mm diameter
1mm thread pitch
130mm OLD
141mm length
quick release
7 speed freewheel
CrMo steel

but they're selling it as a 130mm axle. It took me forever to figure out that there is no such thing and it had to be a 141mm.

I have no advice on cones, I was just hoping the original ones would fit the new thread pitch (1mm vs 26tpi) or the new cones would have a close enough curve to function with the same balls and cups.

Hondo6

I think the "new" in McCycle's quote here should read "not", SurferRosa.