Looking for the perfect (biaised) commuting bike
09-13-13, 09:40 AM
#26
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I like to fix up old bikes as commuters which is obviously not what the OP is looking for. But I recently fixed up a bike ( a 1993 Bridgestone X0-2) that has drops and 26 inch wheels. I've been very pleasantly surprised by how nicely 26 x 1.5 tires roll and how well they soak up road vibration. I like this set up better than the 700 x 32c I was running before. I've always thought that the 26 versus 700c debate was somewhat overblown (there are pros and cons to both) but everything else being equal, I'd take a 26 inch over a 700c wheel on a commuter based on my experience.
09-13-13, 10:15 AM
#27
Part of the reason I am not yet real hot on road bikes with disc brakes -- caliper technology is just not there yet, the capable systems are the anomaly, not the norm. Couple years, maybe even '15, and things should be better. Until then, for a road-oriented bike, certainly for a drop bar bike with brake/shifter units, I'm still a big advocate of rim brakes.
09-13-13, 11:56 AM
#28
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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That's really funny. I'm a big fan of Specialized but what they build and what Firefly build are still two different worlds.
09-13-13, 04:06 PM
#29
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BB7 is a benchmark for reliable and easy to adjust mechanical disc brakes and I've used them on flat-bar setups, but the road "R" version just isn't up to snuff. They don't seem to have got the pull at the brake lever correct, and must think that road riders are way more tolerant of brake rub than they actually are...
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09-13-13, 04:20 PM
#30
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I dont think drop bars are really workable with all that low maintenance utility gear. The drop bar shifters for alfine are clunky compared to thumb shifters and the brake pull, as stated, is not matched to the brakes.
You can build a fast commuter using flat bars, trekking/butterfly bars or a swept-back flat (On One Mary)
I use Alfine 8 and Shimano dynohub with B&N lamps. The gears are very little trouble, the chainline and lack of pulleys means it runs cleaner than derailleurs. Wheel changes are a tiny bit more complex but nothing to sweat over. The dynohub is a real fit and forget item, no battery management of security issues. I have had batteries stolen before but no-one messes with dynamos. Connecting the wire for wheel removal is trivial.
Gates carbon drive is good in theory but needs attention to the chainline and tension and beware of aluminium rear sprockets, the 3-tab mounting system is designed for steel and al can break under stress.
You can build a fast commuter using flat bars, trekking/butterfly bars or a swept-back flat (On One Mary)
I use Alfine 8 and Shimano dynohub with B&N lamps. The gears are very little trouble, the chainline and lack of pulleys means it runs cleaner than derailleurs. Wheel changes are a tiny bit more complex but nothing to sweat over. The dynohub is a real fit and forget item, no battery management of security issues. I have had batteries stolen before but no-one messes with dynamos. Connecting the wire for wheel removal is trivial.
Gates carbon drive is good in theory but needs attention to the chainline and tension and beware of aluminium rear sprockets, the 3-tab mounting system is designed for steel and al can break under stress.
09-13-13, 04:58 PM
#31
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Bikes: Heavily modded Cannondale Hooligan 1 (2009) and an upgraded Raleigh Max Zero-G
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