Show us your gravel/cross bike...
#4501
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,753
Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
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Thank you.Yep did it myself. Just a cheap rattle can of Rust-Oleum Satin Lagoon. Took most of the paint off with wire cup on my grinder then used Aircraft stripper for the hard to reach places. From dissassemly to finished paint took about 2 hours. I'll admit I could have took more time to paint and the couple of imperfections show it.
I believe that "lagoon" is a close match to my original paint on my 86 KHS... Poor Old Friend needs new paint.
#4502
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
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I thought so. I'm looking at options for pedals due to a bad ankle, now in an AFO brace. this will require me to adopt a more mid foot cleat position. Or, use a longer pedal like these to better support my whole foot.
SO, how did you choose them? How do you like them? Would you ride them on a road bike?
SO, how did you choose them? How do you like them? Would you ride them on a road bike?
The only thing for me is that on road cranks the Q factor is so narrow that I have to run these with pedal spacers. That said because of the narrow Q factor on the pedals I’m thinking about taking my large Stamp pedals from my fat bike and swapping the Catalysts to that.
Thats the other thing. I like the size large Crank brothers Stamp pedals (not the plastic ones) as an alternative to the Catalyst pedals. They aren’t as long but they are longer than most flat pedals, and they are wider which is great for me so I don’t have to run extenders.
#4503
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,753
Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
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I chose them cause I was getting foot cramps when trying to run standard flat pedals for extended rides. When I switched to these I felt like my feet finally had better support and no cramping. I did multiple group rides with the Catalyst pedals and they held up very well in my experience.
The only thing for me is that on road cranks the Q factor is so narrow that I have to run these with pedal spacers. That said because of the narrow Q factor on the pedals I’m thinking about taking my large Stamp pedals from my fat bike and swapping the Catalysts to that.
Thats the other thing. I like the size large Crank brothers Stamp pedals (not the plastic ones) as an alternative to the Catalyst pedals. They aren’t as long but they are longer than most flat pedals, and they are wider which is great for me so I don’t have to run extenders.
The only thing for me is that on road cranks the Q factor is so narrow that I have to run these with pedal spacers. That said because of the narrow Q factor on the pedals I’m thinking about taking my large Stamp pedals from my fat bike and swapping the Catalysts to that.
Thats the other thing. I like the size large Crank brothers Stamp pedals (not the plastic ones) as an alternative to the Catalyst pedals. They aren’t as long but they are longer than most flat pedals, and they are wider which is great for me so I don’t have to run extenders.
I have used extenders for years. Size 13 feet frequently have heel strikes on chain stays. Might happen less as I move to a midfoot style. And of course, my AFO brace in my shoe I need the clearance to keep from hitting the brace on the crank arm. I'm getting a bicycle fit through my Orthopedics physical therapy program in less than 2 weeks. See how far out of whack I am I guess.
#4504
Senior Member
Started with a 91 Schwinn Crisscross curbside special. Parts harvested from other curbside specials and LBS parts bin, except
-Second hand wheel set off CL came at the right time.
-New cables, chain, cassette, brifters.
-Original tires, because that would have been too much financial commitment (but not the brifters??)
Too much money in it but a fun time building it and a fun ride while it lasts.
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#4505
Member
Attachment 363619Attachment 365142Soma Triplecross. Tange Prestige carbon fork and bars help dampen the road vibration, HED Belgian+ wheels, Surly beers.
It's a fun ride. Gravel grinders are popping up all over the country now and it's a good crowd just out to challenge themselves and enjoy the camaraderie.
It's a fun ride. Gravel grinders are popping up all over the country now and it's a good crowd just out to challenge themselves and enjoy the camaraderie.
Raging Jealousy!
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#4507
Senior Member
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#4508
Junior Member
Yeah...well. ummm...sortof...
I have tried a bunch of things in the past to endure in the land of endless gravel washboard.
1. Suspension forks. I've modified all my forks to remove all compression / even rebound damping and run lightest springs to react to washboard. Even modified, they simply cannot react fast enough. Even though they can't handle the small high frequency stuff, they are best for big hits.
2. Softride/ softflex suspension stems. Better than forks for gravel, but not as well for big hits. I've got a whole drawer full of them. They don't react fast enough either. They also wear out fast.
3. Specialized stem suspension thingee. Better than softride ( in reacting to washboard- and it's also new (not warn out bushings) -yet at least), but not as much travel. Not for big stuff at all. It is very subtle. It takes the edge off of things, but isn't suspension in the sense a fork or soft flex stem is. I have no idea how it will hold up over time (probably not well- but who knows). I bought the diverge despite the suspension thingee. When I ride a gravel road with one hand on the bar, and the other hand over the stem suspension thingee, you can feel it is moving a lot, so it is taking some of the jarring out. If you have not ridden with one before, when you get on it, the feeling is your front tire is 1/3 way flat in the way the bars feel- except the tire is not flat, it's the stem reacting with that much travel, which (for me) is LESS slop than a worn out softride stem. I find myself stopping at the beginnings of rides thinking "Oh crap, my front tire pressure is too low" - but it's fine when I check it, it's the stem compressing. I'm getting used to it now. The concept is that it is taking the edge off of 10000000000 little hits over time, which ads up over the long run.
4. Bigger tires with lower pressure. I think this might be the biggest winner for gravel washboard. Bigger tires can soak up the endless bumps faster than the forks/suspension stems can react to them. There's a fine line between narrow and high pressure vs. wide and low pressure (fast/ no bump absorption vs. too soggy/heavy) though.
Again- I bought this bike DESPITE the stem. Since the stem was mandatory for this bike, I figured it would be fun to experiment with. I have no idea if I will keep up with it, or jury rig a fixed stem option in the future. So far, so good though!
Just my 2 cents....
More gratuitous pics from today....
I have tried a bunch of things in the past to endure in the land of endless gravel washboard.
1. Suspension forks. I've modified all my forks to remove all compression / even rebound damping and run lightest springs to react to washboard. Even modified, they simply cannot react fast enough. Even though they can't handle the small high frequency stuff, they are best for big hits.
2. Softride/ softflex suspension stems. Better than forks for gravel, but not as well for big hits. I've got a whole drawer full of them. They don't react fast enough either. They also wear out fast.
3. Specialized stem suspension thingee. Better than softride ( in reacting to washboard- and it's also new (not warn out bushings) -yet at least), but not as much travel. Not for big stuff at all. It is very subtle. It takes the edge off of things, but isn't suspension in the sense a fork or soft flex stem is. I have no idea how it will hold up over time (probably not well- but who knows). I bought the diverge despite the suspension thingee. When I ride a gravel road with one hand on the bar, and the other hand over the stem suspension thingee, you can feel it is moving a lot, so it is taking some of the jarring out. If you have not ridden with one before, when you get on it, the feeling is your front tire is 1/3 way flat in the way the bars feel- except the tire is not flat, it's the stem reacting with that much travel, which (for me) is LESS slop than a worn out softride stem. I find myself stopping at the beginnings of rides thinking "Oh crap, my front tire pressure is too low" - but it's fine when I check it, it's the stem compressing. I'm getting used to it now. The concept is that it is taking the edge off of 10000000000 little hits over time, which ads up over the long run.
4. Bigger tires with lower pressure. I think this might be the biggest winner for gravel washboard. Bigger tires can soak up the endless bumps faster than the forks/suspension stems can react to them. There's a fine line between narrow and high pressure vs. wide and low pressure (fast/ no bump absorption vs. too soggy/heavy) though.
Again- I bought this bike DESPITE the stem. Since the stem was mandatory for this bike, I figured it would be fun to experiment with. I have no idea if I will keep up with it, or jury rig a fixed stem option in the future. So far, so good though!
Just my 2 cents....
More gratuitous pics from today....
Last edited by dualresponse; 01-11-20 at 09:34 PM.
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#4509
Junior Member
Another thing I forgot to mention was another bike I ride on gravel a lot- This. These bars have so much flex at the grips, they give almost as much suspension as the Specialized stem thingee. Not applicable for every setup, but, they are super plush, with no bearings/pivots to wear out.
Last edited by dualresponse; 01-12-20 at 06:16 AM.
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#4510
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Maine, USA
Posts: 1,612
Bikes: Corvid Sojourner, Surly Ice Cream Truck, Co-Motion Divide, Co-Motion Java Tandem, Salsa Warbird, Salsa Beargrease, Carver Tandem
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My Co-Motion Divide
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#4512
Junior Member
#4513
Senior Member
I was just going to ask/suggest the Lauf fork. I have a Cannondale Slate and some of the folks in the FB group have actually switched to the Lauf. I can' attest to either on washboards, but it might be worth looking into.
#4515
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Brazil, Londrina PR
Posts: 273
Bikes: Kona Unit, Kona Kahuna, Kona Dew DL, Scott Big Jon, Trek Checkpoint ALR4, KHS Urban Soul, Haro Team Issue, GT Force Expert Carbon, Bernardi Quadra.
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Cernunnos Touro, a handbuilt steel bike with an aluminum fork painted to match.
Made in Curitiba, Paraná, Brazil.
Shimano Sora R3000 drivetrain with a Deore 9 speed rear derailleur.
Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebar.
Bontrager rims laced to Novatec hubs.
Nutt semi hydraulic brakes
Kona stem and seatpost and All-City saddle that come out of my parts bin
Made in Curitiba, Paraná, Brazil.
Shimano Sora R3000 drivetrain with a Deore 9 speed rear derailleur.
Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebar.
Bontrager rims laced to Novatec hubs.
Nutt semi hydraulic brakes
Kona stem and seatpost and All-City saddle that come out of my parts bin
#4517
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,538
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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Cernunnos Touro, a handbuilt steel bike with an aluminum fork painted to match.
Made in Curitiba, Paraná, Brazil.
Shimano Sora R3000 drivetrain with a Deore 9 speed rear derailleur.
Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebar.
Bontrager rims laced to Novatec hubs.
Nutt semi hydraulic brakes
Kona stem and seatpost and All-City saddle that come out of my parts bin
Made in Curitiba, Paraná, Brazil.
Shimano Sora R3000 drivetrain with a Deore 9 speed rear derailleur.
Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebar.
Bontrager rims laced to Novatec hubs.
Nutt semi hydraulic brakes
Kona stem and seatpost and All-City saddle that come out of my parts bin
Why an aluminum fork?
And I havent heard of those brakes- time to google!
#4518
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Brazil, Londrina PR
Posts: 273
Bikes: Kona Unit, Kona Kahuna, Kona Dew DL, Scott Big Jon, Trek Checkpoint ALR4, KHS Urban Soul, Haro Team Issue, GT Force Expert Carbon, Bernardi Quadra.
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This is a cheap bike geared towards people with not a lot of money to spend on their first gravel bike. I bought it to use as a commuter, as I already have a Trek Checkpoint. Here in Brazil bikes in general are absurdly expensive given most people's income so bikes produced locally with Brazilian steel and cheap components such as shimano Claris or Sora are quite popular. The AL fork is a generic fork that can be acquired cheap. I think Cernunnos now offers a carbon fork upgrade but that wasn't available when I bought the bike. My bike is different from the stock build because I had some parts in my parts bin that were better then the stock ones.
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#4519
Senior Member
I just finished building my first gravel bike...an Orbea Terra. I bought it as a complete bike, but immediately stripped down to the frame.
I built it back up with GRX 800 2x, and Roval C38's
I built it back up with GRX 800 2x, and Roval C38's
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#4520
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
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Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
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C-Dale Topstone 105, at Chisholm State Park, overlooking East Brooklyn, NY. Purchased late November ‘19, has new WTB Riddler 45mm tires, which are a great tire, 37 or 45.
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#4521
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 172
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, Surly Pacer, All City Big Block
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Won't have pics for a few days until I finish putting it all together, but I picked up a 2017 Diamondback Haanjo EXP Carbon (650b) about a week and a half ago. I paid $800 and had some concerns about a couple dings in the carbon, so I removed everything and took the frameset to a local carbon repair specialist. Really nice older gentleman who used to work for Boeing dealing with industrial carbon. He's been repairing bike frames for 10 years and reassured me that the carbon was sound. Didn't charge me a penny for his time, either! Overall I'm glad that went through the effort for the peace of mind and so I could rebuild the bike to my liking. Prior owner was using shifting housing for the brakes, which I likely wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't disassembled everything.
Everything was stock, and the only changes I made were changing out the 3x crankset for a 2x (bar end friction shifting so I didn't have to replace anything else), throwing on a 110mm ritchey stem, and WTB Silverado seatpost I bought on craigslist. All in all the build will be finished for under $900, which makes me happy for a (supposedly) sub 22lb gravel build. I'll get a proper weight when I'm finished.
Still deciding on if I should go SPD or flats (probably SPD), and if I want to throw on different bars down the road (we'll see how the stock diamondback gravel bars feel).
Everything was stock, and the only changes I made were changing out the 3x crankset for a 2x (bar end friction shifting so I didn't have to replace anything else), throwing on a 110mm ritchey stem, and WTB Silverado seatpost I bought on craigslist. All in all the build will be finished for under $900, which makes me happy for a (supposedly) sub 22lb gravel build. I'll get a proper weight when I'm finished.
Still deciding on if I should go SPD or flats (probably SPD), and if I want to throw on different bars down the road (we'll see how the stock diamondback gravel bars feel).
#4522
Junior Member
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#4524
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
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Not yet a full bike, but heres my Swiss Cross.
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#4525
Junior Member
I finished converting an old steel Trek road bike to a gravel bike and took it for a spin for the first time this weekend. Basically I just put some tubeless 38mm Gravelkings onto 650b Pacenti Brevet rims and put some extra-long reach Tektros on. It was a blast! Definitely will be doing some more gravel from now on.
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