Gingerdamous

Been looking around a good but and keep coming up empty...sadly.
Has anyone on here seen Hed track adaptors, or any adaptors that would work with trispokes, around anywhere? The rear in particular. . .

These would be for velodrome use, so ideally the adaptor would be meant for the application.

Sorry if this is somewhere else in the 230pages of replies, I just never saw it.

carpediemracing 

I am pretty sure they don't exist.

I looked for many years. I gambled on the Surrly Fixie working but the issue is that the freehub body for the TriSpoke is a Dura Ace, and the one fixed gear conversion kit (Surrly Fixie) works with 105/Ultegra. The freehub body attachment thread is totally different between the DA and the 105/Ult. HED had a kit for their wheels (HED3) but I don't know what freehub system they used and regardless I think the kits are gone now.

There is a fixed gear thing that screws onto the freewheel threads (of any freewheel wheel) but it can unscrew, which defeats the purpose of the lockring threads. I suppose you could epoxy it in place? I don't know the rules on that.

For the front wheel you can just buy a solid axle and put the same bearing dust cap axle nut things on the new axle. If you want you can use a skewer-type nut-bolt kit to hold the front wheel on (so instead of being a QR it's a long Allen bolt). I have those as well, mainly for front wheel use, but since I have solid front axles that's what I have on my TriSpoke. In fact I ran a track axle front TriSpoke for a few years on my road bike only because I didn't feel like taking 5 min to switch to the QR axle.

queerpunk

the fixed gear thing that screws onto freewheel threads is designed to put your cog onto the correct chainline (distance from the bike's centerline). you could loctite it on and get some insurance against unscrewing it while backpedaling, i guess. though worth noting that plenty of track racers don't bother with lockrings in the first place.

TMonk

Does anyone use a short-tail TT helmet for mass start track stuff? My Giro Selector (that I use in TT) pisses me off and I'm considering trying a shorter tail helmet like the Kask Bambino or POC Cerebel. Would it be weird to use these in a scratch race, for example?

queerpunk

both helmets are super common.

topflightpro

I have a Bambino. I tried it for some Mass Start events when I first got it, but it didn't work for me. It was just too hot. There is little to no ventilation in it, and in the heat and humidity, it was killing me. I even stopped wearing it in sprints for that reason. I've gone to a Kask Utopia to wear during any mass start events and hot sprints. I will use the Giro Aerohead for F200s and Kilos.

Morelock

This may be super random and off topic... not sure who/where to ask though.

I've been making some parts lately (carbon/kevlar) that will end up load bearing (narrow drop handlebars, aero extensions, stem/bar combos, etc... you know, not parts you want to fail) I'm definitely not a newbie with composites generally (automotive) but most of that requires a fair bit less stringent testing.

So, besides sending parts off to be tested (I know one German company that does so but it doesn't really make sense for basically 1 offs) what are some other options for safety testing? Static load isn't terribly hard (basically load it up with weight or a hydraulic press) but dynamic I'm not sure of... I mounted one bar to a pullup bar and did pullups on it... but that seemed rather crude... is there a rough guideline of "if it handles this much static it can handle xxx dynamic?"

taras0000

Static vs dynamic loads are going to be dependant on material. Handlebars don't really see a true dynamic load. Dynamic load is usually used to refer to shock loading, vs static being a fairly constant load. The only time that a handlebar would see any true dynamic load is in a crash. Otherwise the forces being exerted on a handlebar basically change in a pretty uniform and constant manner. Us humans aren't capable of creating a true dynamic or shock loading on something without introducing slack and momentum into the equation, which is something that doesn't happen if your hands are already on the bars.
​​​​​
i would maybe focus testing on cycles and fatigue limits.

Morelock

taras0000 Very helpful, thanks.

Cycles are tough to do without specific machinery. For the fully custom parts (as in, starting from a mold and building up from scratch) I was thinking I might send one to the ACT lab for stem/bar fatigue tests.
For some of the "semi custom" parts (that is, taking an existing whatever and modifying it, like narrowing drop bars or combining stem/bars) I don't think that would help as validation, since even if you made 2 of the same thing, there would be innate differences that you couldn't control/account for (curing, initial damages due to cutting/bonding) from 1 to 2. I suppose that's more akin to a repair than in that regard. Not sure if that's possible to really test repeatably. (and if you go too far testing a 1 off... it becomes unusable from the stress of the testing)

Pole Line Stand

I presently use a Selle Flite saddle which I have in a full aft position. I need to get another centimeter more on the position. Can anyone recommend a saddle with a bit more setback then a conventional saddle? I don't want to go with the snub nose saddles like ISM. It was mentioned the Fizik saddles
may have a bit more aft but just looking at the saddle ads I really can't ascertain if there is any difference.

Thanks

queerpunk

A Selle Italia Flite is a very "forward" saddle - the rails are short and the sweetspot of it is pretty far forward.

If you're comfortable on the saddle, you could get a seatpost with more setback. If you're looking at Fizik saddles - the Arione is a long saddle with lots of fore/aft adjustment: both longer rails than the Flite, and a much larger zone of adjustment w/r/t sitting on the saddle itself.

carpediemracing 

SRM track cranks question.

I went to install my 24mm axle Origin cranks (alum arms). The spindle appears to be about 5mm too long, i.e. the crank arm is all the way on the spindle and I can move the whole arm/spindle assembly left and right about 5mm.

Arms are all the way on the spindle, meaning the spacer sleeve is flush with the crank arm flat area (under the crank arm bolt), the spindle end is flush with that as well.

The drive side appears to be fixed, meaning I don't mess with it?

If I slide the whole assembly to the right, the left arm sits nicely against the BB shell and looks proper. But if I seat the drive side all the way the left arm moves to the left.

The spacer sleeves (to space out the 24mm spindle to 30mm) came with two very thin o-rings, maybe 1-2mm thick. They're meant to pick up any slack if the spindle is moving side to side but it's moving a solid 5mm if not a touch more, much more than the o-rings would fill.

It almost seems like I need to use a headset spacer to fill the gap, but that doesn't seem right.

Is there something I missed?

Pole Line Stand

I'll look into, thanks

Morelock

Indeed that doesn't sound right. The spacer/shims should only reduce minor amounts of play between frame specs. What bike/bb standard and pictures would help.

Just to eliminate the Occam's Razor... You got the 24mm Spindle and not the 30mm right?

carpediemracing 

I think I did it right.

Dolan DF4. Rotor BB cups. 24mm spindle (steel, it's heavy). The spindle requires a spacer so the left arm fits, otherwise the opening in the arm is way too big.

carpediemracing 

arm fully seated



spindle pushed all the way to the drive side



spindle pushed all the way to the left side (non drive side)

Morelock

carpediemracing
I'm not totally up to date on the SRM Origin... so everything that follows may or may not be accurate.
Have you contacted SRM to make sure that the Track Origin works with the 24mm spindle and rotor track bottom bracket?
I ask because on my (track specific) P2M NGECO (on my Fuji Track Elite) I was not able to use the Rotor Track BB + 24mm spindle, I had to use the Road Axle with the regular BSA30 bottom bracket.

It sounded wrong to me when I was buying it, but the guy at Powermetercity I spoke with said that if I bought the shorter spindle + track BB (which is what made sense to me) it wouldn't fit.
Again, not sure if that that applies to the SRM, but I'm guessing it might.

carpediemracing 

Hm thanks. It sounds like this might be a possibility. SRM supplied the spindle (it comes pre-installed in the spider) but the BB compatibility is the bit I don't know. I'll have to call them.

KrispyK

After watching a a bunch of worlds coverage and the GCN video of worlds bikes. Its seems as if a bunch of teams are running campy wheels. Is it because of sponsorship or other reasons?

carleton

Probably sponsorship.

The wheels are more alike than different. But, if a company is willing to give you cash and free wheels, that helps a team a lot.

That concept is at the heart of sports marketing:

- Athletes/teams need cash and will use whatever doesn’t make them slower if paid to do so...even if it’s not their preferred product.
- Fans see the athletes use the products and assume that the products made the athletes fast and maybe want to buy them.

Super D

Where in the world can I find the EAI Keirin tool for a sub-$100 price, it's so expensive. But I like it! Dammit! Was saving for a digital Silca pump, then tried the EAI tool at the track a few weeks ago, and I'm totally screwed.

topflightpro

You could try the knock-off version: Cobra Cog Wrench ? The Blackline

Super D

Well, it's not as pretty...but that bottle opener....

KrispyK

good luck, They run $95 wholesale. If you find one let me know.

I have the Silca digital pump. I love it, hands down, but if I couldn't get it I would just get the Hiro chuck. Its awesome.

topflightpro

If you do get it, let me know how it works. I've been meaning to try one, but keep having other, more important, things come up. And the Shimano Chain Whip I have works pretty well.