Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#7876
bill nyecycles
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Personally I need a 70-80mm stem max on all my bikes. I’ve never had the luxury of being tall. Lol.
#7878
Full Member
However, not as aestethically pleasing as Factory Five's Titan, or the many copies available.
The downside of the Factory five stem is that 90mm is the max length they do.
Still both cheaper than Calleti.
I would only pay asking price for Caletti if it was actually made out of titanium.
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#7882
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
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I'm glad I went back and scrolled through some of this thread. It makes me feel like I'm not alone or as much of a heretic as I had feared. And it gives me an excuse to repost this one. Sorry if it's old news to you.
1965ish 64x61.5cm (both ctc) Cinelli Speciale Corsa frame (recently repainted by Ed Litton) with a rechromed 1960-61 SC fork (steerer tube elongated to fit the frame, also by Ed Litton). Campy 10sp triple drivetrain (Chorus crank, RD, Record FD and brifters), Record hubs w/open Pro rims and Conti 5000 700x32 tires. KMC chain. Nitto noodle bar and Tallux stem. Tektro 539 front brake, 559 rear brake to take care of the weird things Italians did with brake reach in the 1950s to mid-1960s. SPD two-sided pedals. Kool Stop brake pads. Rolls Titanio saddle on an old Campy two-bolt post. Original seat post bolt. Original head badge.
Heavy as hell, but so am I so it really doesn't matter. I now have, and have had in the past, some fantastic frames with excellent ride characteristics. This one is better. Not a lot, but enough to notice and love. It's the one I reach for most of the time.
1965ish 64x61.5cm (both ctc) Cinelli Speciale Corsa frame (recently repainted by Ed Litton) with a rechromed 1960-61 SC fork (steerer tube elongated to fit the frame, also by Ed Litton). Campy 10sp triple drivetrain (Chorus crank, RD, Record FD and brifters), Record hubs w/open Pro rims and Conti 5000 700x32 tires. KMC chain. Nitto noodle bar and Tallux stem. Tektro 539 front brake, 559 rear brake to take care of the weird things Italians did with brake reach in the 1950s to mid-1960s. SPD two-sided pedals. Kool Stop brake pads. Rolls Titanio saddle on an old Campy two-bolt post. Original seat post bolt. Original head badge.
Heavy as hell, but so am I so it really doesn't matter. I now have, and have had in the past, some fantastic frames with excellent ride characteristics. This one is better. Not a lot, but enough to notice and love. It's the one I reach for most of the time.
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#7883
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Re: the above "Factory five" style stem
Something about the huge size of the clamp area vs. the thinner profiles of the rest of the stem feels visually unbalanced to me.
It (the Factory five style) stem does everything I'm looking for in a stem for my retro build (even the black option), but the main reason I want an up-rev from my current stem adapter and aheadset stem is to improve the lines and aesthetics
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Are any of these with faceplates made for 25.4 handlebars? I don't need any bigger bars, but like the way you can remove the bars without doing anything to them.
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#7885
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I seem to remember hearing a lot of complaints about flex from fixie riders when the factory five stems first came out. Can anyone confirm if that's really a problem?
#7886
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For some reason, maybe not physics, but the appearance of danger, I'd not ride one of those longer than 90mm. They just look "uh oh."
#7887
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Appreciate the link, seypat.
Re: the above "Factory five" style stem
Something about the huge size of the clamp area vs. the thinner profiles of the rest of the stem feels visually unbalanced to me.
It (the Factory five style) stem does everything I'm looking for in a stem for my retro build (even the black option), but the main reason I want an up-rev from my current stem adapter and aheadset stem is to improve the lines and aesthetics
Re: the above "Factory five" style stem
Something about the huge size of the clamp area vs. the thinner profiles of the rest of the stem feels visually unbalanced to me.
It (the Factory five style) stem does everything I'm looking for in a stem for my retro build (even the black option), but the main reason I want an up-rev from my current stem adapter and aheadset stem is to improve the lines and aesthetics
#7888
Full Member
#7889
Senior Member
Apologies for the OT stem posts...
The Caletti stem (including its price-point) and the Factory Five (flex rumors / aesthetics) have me convinced the sweet spot for modern/ retro stems remains elusive.
Doncha love a treasure hunt?
C'mon man! , its C&V ...you know you do!
Resculpt to get 26.0mm bore to 31.8mm and I think we're pretty close.
:0)
Doncha love a treasure hunt?
C'mon man! , its C&V ...you know you do!
- "We believe the Motus Quill stems on this page were produced in the late 1990s
- 26.0mm bar clamp diameter
- Motus stems came in a gunmetal-grey finish
- Removable face plate makes changing bars with tape and levers a snap"
Resculpt to get 26.0mm bore to 31.8mm and I think we're pretty close.
:0)
Last edited by chainwhip; 12-18-20 at 06:09 PM.
#7890
Full Member
I believe the problem with the classic quill stem with removable face plate is that they crack eventually due to their design - not enough real estate, bolt holes may be the weak point.
2 bolt ones are flexible in the clamping area, and narrow 4 bolt ones seem to be prone to cracking more than the 2 bolt version.
Nitto has a good design from an engineering standpoind, but it's a fugly one and the clamping bolts look like an afterthought, in my opinion.
I would rather go full oversize at that point with an adapter.
If the design of the 31.8mm stem is to be observed, their rigidity comes from the size of the bar and clamping area together.
Maybe some older folk who've had stems break can chip in.
It's an interesting topic especially for non-ballerina bodied riders. I'm building up a vintage frame at the moment and it has crossed my mind a few times, as I am at around 195lbs. I like the classic look of quill, but if it don't work, it don't work.
I want to ride the bike not just look at it.
2 bolt ones are flexible in the clamping area, and narrow 4 bolt ones seem to be prone to cracking more than the 2 bolt version.
Nitto has a good design from an engineering standpoind, but it's a fugly one and the clamping bolts look like an afterthought, in my opinion.
I would rather go full oversize at that point with an adapter.
If the design of the 31.8mm stem is to be observed, their rigidity comes from the size of the bar and clamping area together.
Maybe some older folk who've had stems break can chip in.
It's an interesting topic especially for non-ballerina bodied riders. I'm building up a vintage frame at the moment and it has crossed my mind a few times, as I am at around 195lbs. I like the classic look of quill, but if it don't work, it don't work.
I want to ride the bike not just look at it.
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#7891
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I'm currently building up a bike for this thread. Been going back and forth for days on whether to go with a modern looking stem setup or classic quill design. The setup will be plain, glossy black.(Also cheap, if possible) I detest matte black. I already have some handlebars I am going to use. I was all set to go threadless adapter, but couldn't find a stem I liked. Lots of sweet Cinellis out there, but then I have to get some more bars. For now I am pulling the stem/bars from another bike to use. I will have to find replacements eventually to go on the other bike. Life's tough.
#7892
bill nyecycles
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Just to add to the quill vs modern stem on vintage bikes chat...
I recently moved the quill & bars from my 84 Raleigh SS to my new 87 Cilo acquisition, so I decided since I didn't want to give up my SS, I would use what I had in my parts bin, which was a Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter, and a modern Ritchey 31.8 stem & Nitto bar.
It's not 100% aesthetically great, but it's not bad. Since it's only temporary (probably for a year or so) I'm not going to worry too much about it. If I had the bars in a 26.0 clamp, I'd have used one of the 2 extra quills stems I had, but, you work with what you've got.
I agree that older bikes with more narrow tubing don't really look quite right with today's more modern wider tube/stem diameters so use quills almost 100% of the time when I am rebuilding/restoring classic bikes. Thankfully, this isn't too bad...
I only had black spacers, and i know overall this is pretty hideous, but, i've seen much worse....
I recently moved the quill & bars from my 84 Raleigh SS to my new 87 Cilo acquisition, so I decided since I didn't want to give up my SS, I would use what I had in my parts bin, which was a Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter, and a modern Ritchey 31.8 stem & Nitto bar.
It's not 100% aesthetically great, but it's not bad. Since it's only temporary (probably for a year or so) I'm not going to worry too much about it. If I had the bars in a 26.0 clamp, I'd have used one of the 2 extra quills stems I had, but, you work with what you've got.
I agree that older bikes with more narrow tubing don't really look quite right with today's more modern wider tube/stem diameters so use quills almost 100% of the time when I am rebuilding/restoring classic bikes. Thankfully, this isn't too bad...
I only had black spacers, and i know overall this is pretty hideous, but, i've seen much worse....
#7894
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People! It's called the Mavic 370 and it is both beautiful and svelte. You're welcome!
The Big Bulbous 31.8mm quill stem looks out of balance because it is visually out of balance by virtue of what it is designed to do/be. I think it's ugly. Maybe fixie riders felt the flex because when you're riding fixie, if the bike/drivetrain doesn't have any give (and there are no brakes), the rider then becomes the flex point, and the load/force vectors go through the rider and to what they are attached to (pedals, saddle, handlebars). Quill stem conversion or Innicycle headset for me if I'm going the 31.8mm route. But you all already know that!
Anyway... To get this thing back on track, here's a throwback that I may or may not have posted. 1983 Trek 970 - 64cm - Columbus SL - Campagnolo Chorus 8-speed. The parts and frame are long gone, but the frame is at least in a really good home.
The Big Bulbous 31.8mm quill stem looks out of balance because it is visually out of balance by virtue of what it is designed to do/be. I think it's ugly. Maybe fixie riders felt the flex because when you're riding fixie, if the bike/drivetrain doesn't have any give (and there are no brakes), the rider then becomes the flex point, and the load/force vectors go through the rider and to what they are attached to (pedals, saddle, handlebars). Quill stem conversion or Innicycle headset for me if I'm going the 31.8mm route. But you all already know that!
Anyway... To get this thing back on track, here's a throwback that I may or may not have posted. 1983 Trek 970 - 64cm - Columbus SL - Campagnolo Chorus 8-speed. The parts and frame are long gone, but the frame is at least in a really good home.
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#7895
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Well, my new workhorse has arrived! It was dropped off at my parents' place out in the countryside yesterday evening so today after work I went over to assemble it... A 1999 Schwinn Peloton in rather great condition, all things considered. There are a few blemishes to the paint on top of the top tube, as if it were tucked under some kind of piece of furniture or the like, and the left-hand STI lever has some scuffs. Otherwise it's pretty darn clean! I had the L'Eroica water bottles and alloy cages laying around so I threw those on to see what it looked like more "road-worthy."
The only pedals I had at the house were from a 1950 Raleigh Popular roadster, so I threw those on after realizing they were around, and took it for a spin down the road. It shifts through the rear smoothly and the brakes work well, so I think very little dialing in will be necessary besides tinkering with the front derailleur tension, as it doesn't want to throw quite far enough to get onto the big ring on its own.
The stiffness of the aluminum fork was immediately apparent, but my priority is replacing the cockpit, post and saddle with bits to my liking before I begin considering a new fork... It'll do for now!
-Gregory
The only pedals I had at the house were from a 1950 Raleigh Popular roadster, so I threw those on after realizing they were around, and took it for a spin down the road. It shifts through the rear smoothly and the brakes work well, so I think very little dialing in will be necessary besides tinkering with the front derailleur tension, as it doesn't want to throw quite far enough to get onto the big ring on its own.
The stiffness of the aluminum fork was immediately apparent, but my priority is replacing the cockpit, post and saddle with bits to my liking before I begin considering a new fork... It'll do for now!
-Gregory
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#7898
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SLT has a power meter now:
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#7899
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First time I ever saw a drillium power meter...
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