New Shimano Deore hub, ticking noise in the bearings
#1
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New Shimano Deore hub, ticking noise in the bearings
Got a new weel with a Shimano hub since the old freehub was too noisy, but now there seems to be another problem. Seems like there might be some ball bearings missing since it's making some ticking noise while spinning. Had the same problem ages ago on a cheapo bike. Wasn't expecting something like this from Shimano Deore. Not sure if overhauling it would be the best thing to do due to upcoming tour tomorrow.
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I always overhaul, (clean, grease, adjust), any new cup-cone bearings. Most hubs are machine built and there is no way they can be adjusted properly. Plus once you start to gall the cone and race surfaces, there is no way back.
As for the number of ball bearings, I believe that recently happened to me with a new front hub. I counted 11 on one side and 10 on the other. I don’t recall a clicking sound. Since both quantities have been used, depending on the hub, I looked it up on Shimano’s Tech Doc site and there should be 11.
I can’t be certain that one did not fall out and roll away to places unknown, but I’m pretty careful, use a magnet, and put a towel down. Regardless they both have 11 now.
John
As for the number of ball bearings, I believe that recently happened to me with a new front hub. I counted 11 on one side and 10 on the other. I don’t recall a clicking sound. Since both quantities have been used, depending on the hub, I looked it up on Shimano’s Tech Doc site and there should be 11.
I can’t be certain that one did not fall out and roll away to places unknown, but I’m pretty careful, use a magnet, and put a towel down. Regardless they both have 11 now.
John
#3
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I always overhaul, (clean, grease, adjust), any new cup-cone bearings. Most hubs are machine built and there is no way they can be adjusted properly. Plus once you start to gall the cone and race surfaces, there is no way back.
As for the number of ball bearings, I believe that recently happened to me with a new front hub. I counted 11 on one side and 10 on the other. I don’t recall a clicking sound. Since both quantities have been used, depending on the hub, I looked it up on Shimano’s Tech Doc site and there should be 11.
I can’t be certain that one did not fall out and roll away to places unknown, but I’m pretty careful, use a magnet, and put a towel down. Regardless they both have 11 now.
John
As for the number of ball bearings, I believe that recently happened to me with a new front hub. I counted 11 on one side and 10 on the other. I don’t recall a clicking sound. Since both quantities have been used, depending on the hub, I looked it up on Shimano’s Tech Doc site and there should be 11.
I can’t be certain that one did not fall out and roll away to places unknown, but I’m pretty careful, use a magnet, and put a towel down. Regardless they both have 11 now.
John
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I don’t have access to Shimano tech site at the moment. “Typically” 9 (1/4”) balls per side for rear hubs.
You can search using the hub number, FH-Number and HB-Number. There are pdf’s with exploded views and parts list.
John
You can search using the hub number, FH-Number and HB-Number. There are pdf’s with exploded views and parts list.
John
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You can get Grade 25 ball bearings, 1/4” and 3/16”, at an LBS. I wouldn’t go to anything better, but I wouldn’t go anything less than that; such as Grade 100.
John
Edit added: I also don’t skimp on the grease; pack it in there.
John
Edit added: I also don’t skimp on the grease; pack it in there.
#6
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I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.
Last edited by sysrq; 10-13-21 at 11:53 AM.
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How ironic. I just did this on T610 hubs this past weekend. Bought the wheels a year ago as replacements for our son some day.
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
#8
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How ironic. I just did this on T610 hubs this past weekend. Bought the wheels a year ago as replacements for our son some day.
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.
#9
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How ironic. I just did this on T610 hubs this past weekend. Bought the wheels a year ago as replacements for our son some day.
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
Check for burrs/chips on axle. I found a sliver on the axle. Spent extra time cleaning. Ran a magnet through the hub.
But the final product turned out smooth spinning.
John
I suspect one ball was missing from the start, otherwise the clicking would be a bit quiter, since they weren't completely dry but covered with oil instead of grease.
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Had purchased new wheels for my son's mtn bike with Shimano hubs. Noticed when repacking the bearings, the front hub did not have much grease at all, barely even slick. Plus that hub was overly tightened by the manufacturer.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
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#14
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Had purchased new wheels for my son's mtn bike with Shimano hubs. Noticed when repacking the bearings, the front hub did not have much grease at all, barely even slick. Plus that hub was overly tightened by the manufacturer.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
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Agreed, with cartridge bearing hubs you have got loud freehubs, while with Shimano you normally have some sort of problems with cup and cone bearings. Older production freehubs seemed to be quiter for some reason. Like a wristwatch ticking. Shame this one sounds like a loud mouse click. Who knew cycling would be so complicated.
#16
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Cycling was my last hope lol.
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Had purchased new wheels for my son's mtn bike with Shimano hubs. Noticed when repacking the bearings, the front hub did not have much grease at all, barely even slick. Plus that hub was overly tightened by the manufacturer.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
Rear hub did have some grease, but not that much.
Wondering if the production on these hubs are going too fast or quality control is just plainly down for these kind of mistakes.
I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.
It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.
John
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#18
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My understanding is hubs are machine assembled. I’m not sure if Shimano uses the most efficient processes with the (false) intent that an LBS/wheel builder will set the hub up properly before customer use. After all a hub will always require additional steps, wheel building, prior to being put into use. But I doubt anything is done with machine built discount priced wheels.
I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.
It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.
John
I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.
It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.
John
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My understanding is hubs are machine assembled. I’m not sure if Shimano uses the most efficient processes with the (false) intent that an LBS/wheel builder will set the hub up properly before customer use. After all a hub will always require additional steps, wheel building, prior to being put into use. But I doubt anything is done with machine built discount priced wheels.
I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.
It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.
John
I also don’t know if the lower level hubs are thrown together and the higher level hubs have additional steps. A $300 XTR freehub might command more attention at the factory than a $30 Deore offering.
It is not a big deal for me. New or used, I overhaul every hub I get before I use them. There are much better wheel builders and mechanics than me out there, but I doubt there is a machine that will do a better job than I can.
John
It actually isn't very hard to re-grease the bearings on cup and cone hubs, or at least I don't find it difficult.
But others whom aren't willing to put this work into it may find it annoying to have to pay a LBS to repack the bearings on a new hub.
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Took it back to the the shop and they were like there is nothing wrong with these wheels. Took the wheels to an LBS I had also shopped often at and they were happy to tension and properly dish the wheelset.
I have found that it doesn't matter if the wheels are hand built. If the builder doesn't build it right, then the consumer will need to fix.
HEH...what am I saying, my new wheelset I bought a few months ago from Prowheelbuidler was not tensioned right as well. I just had a lbs tension those since it was cheaper to do rather than shipping the wheel back and wait a month for ProWheelBuilder to fix. Which is strange, cause Prowheelbuilder has always done a great job for me on prior wheelsets.
Last edited by travbikeman; 10-13-21 at 07:39 PM.
#22
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Going trough the trouble of sending it back probably would be pointless since this was the only 32h wheel with 135mm OLD axle and rim brakes I could find.
Last edited by sysrq; 10-13-21 at 04:00 PM.
#23
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Agreed, with cartridge bearing hubs you have got loud freehubs, while with Shimano you normally have some sort of problems with cup and cone bearings. Older production freehubs seemed to be quiter for some reason. Like a wristwatch ticking. Shame this one sounds like a loud mouse click. Who knew cycling would be so complicated.
Troll technique 1.2a
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#25
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Avoid the issue and try to avert attention by posting totally meaningless "hearsay statistics" that have anything to do with your "alleged problem".
What have you ACTUALLY done in an attempt to alleviate your "alleged problem"? (Other than dump bearings on the ground and post a lot of crap)
Another for the ignore list.