Polaris OBark

I have been repacking these things with Park Tool grease, and it is kind of runny and doesn't seem to last very long.

Is there a good thick waterproof grease that might be better for this application?

drlogik 

I assume these pedals are on a mountain bike? If yes, how do you clean your bike? Do you use any kind of degreaser, WD-40, detergents, bike cleaners or the like? Do you power-spray your bike or spray it with a garden hose? The reason I ask is that I've used Park grease for over 30 years and have never had it wash out or crap out.

I don't spray my bikes with water or use any kind of cleaners. If you're a pro racer who gets free bikes that's one thing, if you bought your bike with your own money, over-cleaning your bike with cleaners just isn't needed. A gentle wash with straight water and no spraying (or at most a gentle rinse with a garden hose) is all that you need to do.....in my opinion. Do not spray or directly water any bearings. I have three bikes that are 35 years old or more and I still ride them. They got my cleaning treatment. Oh, and they are steel bikes with no rust.

Crankycrank

The Park is fine. If in a tube, squeeze the air out, cap it and knead the grease a few minutes to mix it up and should be a proper grease consistency afterward. If still no good, many greases will work but I just like to use cheap Marine grease available at auto parts stores, boating stores, maybe even Home Depot, etc. Good for all bearings on a bike (except maybe freehub body innards), fastener threads, seatposts, stems, seat clamps, etc.

Polaris OBark

It is a steel all-road/gravel bike. I only clean it with a slightly damp microfiber towel. It never sees water. The grease in the XTR pedals just doesn't hold up and is a bit runny to begin with (reminds me of Phil Wood lube).

As a control, the very lightweight grease in my Chris King headset (v. 1 ringdrive lube) holds up for 4 or 5 years at least.

drlogik 

Then I would say there may be something wrong with it. Too old maybe, although mine is 20 years old and seems fine. Maybe a contaminent got in to it? Not sure why it isn't working for you. I'd say go with a different grease then. Motorex 2000 is very good as is the Finish Line Teflon grease...or use the other grease you mentioned. Generally in bike applications, grease is grease and it doesn't matter too much what you use.

Koyote

Interesting. I find Phil Wood grease to be quite good.

dedhed

Marine trailer grease

smd4

I've used Phil Wood almost exclusively for decades, until I opened up my Dura Ace pedals from 1984 and found the grease in there as thick and translucent as it was the day it was first packed 38 years ago. So now Dura Ace/Shimano grease is my go-to.

davidad

I have the greenish shimano grease I bought on sale years ago. I pull the pedals every 5k miles and remove the cartridge, fill the body with grease and reinstall the cartridge forcing out the old grease. I make sure the seal is back in place. I haven't had a problem with washing the bike or riding in the rain. If I didn't have the shimano grease, I would use the Lubriplate EMB grease I use on my hubs.

CliffordK

I like my Phil Wood grease.

I do like to use a lot of grease on bike parts, although I realize greasing the spindle may increase friction slightly.

Many of the auto greases are slightly thicker than bike greases. I've used White Lithium, as well as Graphite greases.

Disc Brake axle greases will be quite thick.

Polaris OBark

Thanks everyone. I don't have any detectable water or dirt intrusion. I may be falsely attributing this issue to the consistency of the grease, but it just seems like the grease is too thin, because after a few months I get some play in the pedal with respect to the spindle. If I tighten the bearings, they bind, and there is no obvious wear. I've also never managed to find anywhere to buy replacement spindles/bearings. I figure trying thicker and potentially more robust grease might be worth a try, since replacement is $180 and the blue ones that I have are unobtainium now.

Polaris OBark

It is, and the Park Tool grease seems to be essentially the same thing. I just wonder if there is something else I should be using for these pedals.

easyupbug 

The NLGI number of a grease is the relative hardness of lubricating greases. 000 is like oil and 1, 2 & 3 are common bearing greases. Industrial supply houses will have or should have NLGI up to 6, they firm right up and are for applications where leakage is a problem

Polaris OBark

I don't want to over-do it and have significant frictional drag.

Crankycrank

I doubt the difference is even measurable and you won't notice it through the foot-O-meter after a couple miles. Any of the lubes mentioned by previous posters will work fine.

Polaris OBark

It turns out thick grease won't work. The grease needs to be able to squeeze out when you push the pedal spindle back in to engage the threads. Thick grease doesn't play well.

Speaking of play, what I was observing appears to be due to one of the seals being loose, which happens when you squeeze out the grease. Shimano gets a lot of negative reviews on their XT/XTR pedals because of this. You have to keep poking that gasket/seal back into place with a tiny screwdriver. It is kind of a nutty design.

easyupbug 

Park Tool HPG-1 would be considered NLGI 1 and most marine grease (boat trailer grease) NLGI 2, slightly thicker not a problem.