What have you been wrenching on lately?
#5627
Junior Member
How do?
Better than what exactly? This set up works great. I've built and worked on several bikes this way. It's both secure and safe.
Better than what exactly? This set up works great. I've built and worked on several bikes this way. It's both secure and safe.
#5628
Junior Member
Padding between the jaws, and a careful touch to dial just enough clamping pressure. Nothing more. Never had a problem. Also, I'm not a shop and I don't work on other people's bikes.
#5630
Senior Member
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#5631
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: missouri
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Bikes: Waterford W-13, Ritchey road logic; Ritchey SwissCross; Pinarello Paris ; Surly Karate Monkey monstergravel hauler 1983 Mike Mullet, mid 80s Alpina, late 70s schwinn world sport tourer
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I gave a condensed version of the Alpina's history in this post:
The post is in this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...cing-iron.html
Hope that clears things up - at least for this particular Alpina
DD
The post is in this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...cing-iron.html
Hope that clears things up - at least for this particular Alpina
DD
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#5632
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
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I had some time to disassemble Suntour Cyclone (Dec 1975 version) I got recently. One of the pulley wheel bolts and the B screw had to be drilled out as they wouldn't budge. Which means that after cleaning the derailleur, re-greasing it and putting it back together I was missing B screw and a fairly rare M6 pulley wheel bolt.
B screw is easy, for now I replaced it with something from a different derailleur until I buy some knurled one that won't look out of place. The pulley wheel bolt might be a bit of a problem, though I think I will get a partially treaded M6 hex head bolt, cut it to size and re-tap if necessary. I also wanted to replace the jockey wheels themselves, but of course, it's not something one can find readily available. Well, I'll find them eventually.
One interesting thing I discovered trying various pulley wheels I had knocking about, is that the guide pulley wheel from Sachs / Huret Eco derailleur (and probably more) is a pretty good match. It's the same thickness and can take the same bushing (and M6 bolt). The problem is that SunTour dust shields do not fit, and Huret own ones have internal diameter a tad to small. So drilling them wider is on cards at some point. And I'll have to get some new bushings in the right size as the current one are not in the gratest condition, but I already found general purpose brass ones for sale.
Then I remembered I have Suntour Skitter somewhere. And bingo! I could at least put the Cyclone together for now. I still need to replace the jockey wheels as Skitter ones are only a little bit less worn and I also want the Skitter complete and usable. Next step: power shifters.
B screw is easy, for now I replaced it with something from a different derailleur until I buy some knurled one that won't look out of place. The pulley wheel bolt might be a bit of a problem, though I think I will get a partially treaded M6 hex head bolt, cut it to size and re-tap if necessary. I also wanted to replace the jockey wheels themselves, but of course, it's not something one can find readily available. Well, I'll find them eventually.
One interesting thing I discovered trying various pulley wheels I had knocking about, is that the guide pulley wheel from Sachs / Huret Eco derailleur (and probably more) is a pretty good match. It's the same thickness and can take the same bushing (and M6 bolt). The problem is that SunTour dust shields do not fit, and Huret own ones have internal diameter a tad to small. So drilling them wider is on cards at some point. And I'll have to get some new bushings in the right size as the current one are not in the gratest condition, but I already found general purpose brass ones for sale.
Then I remembered I have Suntour Skitter somewhere. And bingo! I could at least put the Cyclone together for now. I still need to replace the jockey wheels as Skitter ones are only a little bit less worn and I also want the Skitter complete and usable. Next step: power shifters.
#5633
Wheelman
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Putney, London UK
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-bdp-01-a.html
#5634
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
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Gave the headset on the Supercourse a full service today. Grease was pretty brown and old looking but still seemed to be working and didn't feel very gritty.
The bike only has two or three small paint chips on it. I realized the color is very close to my Avalon so after the USA World Cup Game I'll run into town to get a Duplicolor paint pen that matches the car. I'll touch the bike up with that. I'm also going to swing by the bike shop and grab a new Hollowtech II BB. Decided to rebuild this with one of the more modern groupsets I have. I'd love to go full Suntour Superbe on this but good conditons cranks and brake levers are more than I want to spend right now with Christmas coming. Plus if I decide to move this on most people will probably appreciate the STI shifting.
The bike only has two or three small paint chips on it. I realized the color is very close to my Avalon so after the USA World Cup Game I'll run into town to get a Duplicolor paint pen that matches the car. I'll touch the bike up with that. I'm also going to swing by the bike shop and grab a new Hollowtech II BB. Decided to rebuild this with one of the more modern groupsets I have. I'd love to go full Suntour Superbe on this but good conditons cranks and brake levers are more than I want to spend right now with Christmas coming. Plus if I decide to move this on most people will probably appreciate the STI shifting.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
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#5635
...
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Polished with rubbing compound and touched up with white pinstriping paint. I'll get after the fork tomorrow, then I'm a waxing away from assembly.
Last edited by BTinNYC; 11-25-22 at 04:42 PM.
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#5636
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
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WOW, nice!
#5637
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
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I've replaced Cyclone II GT pulley wheels twice using BBB RollerBoys sealed roller bearings, they're quite cheap and also look the same.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-bdp-01-a.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-bdp-01-a.html
I've ordered some brass bushings today that should be and OK replacement for the definitely worn-out and tired ones. Well, they are about 1mm too long, but that's an easy thing to correct. I might get either conversion kit or Simplex jockey wheels at some point. For now I'll temporarily use the Skitter ones and then Huret ones when I have time to modify the shields. I also have another Cyclone on its way, so we'll see, maybe its jockey wheels are in a better shape. I'm quite excited to try these old derailleurs. Really like the way they are designed and the way they look. And whilst I'm waiting for the stuff to come through the post, I decided to prepare the Power Shifters I had. I have two sets of levers, so today I cleaned and polished the first one. They probably weren't that shiny even new.
The more I look at SunTour components, the more I like their engineering and designs. It's a real shame this company didn't survive. It feels like they really had some great ideas and a lot to contribute.
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#5638
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
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Got my Sun m13ii rims yesterday and tackled the front wheel build. Ran into a few problems with stripped spoke/nipples when finishing it. Surprised to experience a lot of torsion. But did manage to line up the hub logo and rim label, which we know is most important.
Rim looks really nice with the Conti 5000, but I'm a little disappointed the 25mm tire measures only 23mm.
^ I removed the ugly half of the rim label.
Now working on the rear and haven't run into any of the same torsion issues. Sonic Youth is helping with the dish.
.
Rim looks really nice with the Conti 5000, but I'm a little disappointed the 25mm tire measures only 23mm.
^ I removed the ugly half of the rim label.
Now working on the rear and haven't run into any of the same torsion issues. Sonic Youth is helping with the dish.
.
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#5639
señor miembro
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#5642
señor miembro
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Sapim Race spokes from wheelbuildingparts.com with 14mm brass nipples
#5643
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#5645
Senior Member
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Well, I hacked away at the Raleigh throughout the day. I went with Ultegra 6510 STI shifters, a 6600 53/39 crankset, Dura Ace BB, Dura Ac 7700 RD and FD and then Dura Ace 7800 brakes. The only stem I had for my fit in the house is was a fairly heavy old Sakae and I stuck with the Sakae handlebars since the stem clamp appears to be 25.4. ISIS Keo pedals and a Fizik saddle on the original (and also heavy) Sakae 25.8 seatpost. Wheels are Dura Ace hubs with Open Pro rims. Mostly finished though I do need to trim off the excess cables and then decide on a bar tape color. Have a few saddle choices too to decide on. For now it's got a blue Arione with a grey stripe in the center..Right now it's 20 lbs 12 ozs. That's a big improvement over the 24 lbs 14 ozs I picked it up at.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
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#5646
Senior Member
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Sapim Race spokes from wheelbuildingparts.com with 14mm brass nipples
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#5647
Bianchi Goddess
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jamesdak I’d try blue tape to try and get that blue in the graphics to stand out more
So there’s still a dusty unloved SuperBee languishing in the dustbin
So there’s still a dusty unloved SuperBee languishing in the dustbin
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#5648
señor miembro
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#5649
Senior Member
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I think the modern clinchers are made to measure as labeled on modern wide rims.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#5650
Total Scrounge
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I found this at an estate sale over the summer with a bunch of cool parts hanging on it. I quickly un-hung the cool parts, then slowly spiffed-up the not so cool parts, and made it into an upright townie. It was a good way to clear out some of the chaff from the parts bin.
I did an evapo-rust frame dunk followed by frame saver. Still lots of rust worms under the paint, but I felt better about myself. The hub races are really bad, but at least they're greased now. Also tried to get rid of the rust on the MA40 eyelets by bathing in evapo-rust, with mixed success. Heck, somebody's probably just gonna steal it and throw it in the river anyway!
Had some Accushift thumbies that I'll probably regret using, but they worked really well with the Suntour Edge derailleurs. I was going to use some aero mount DT shifters from the box-o-crap, but it was just better with Accushift all around. Check out the Accushift cable housing! This bike also taught me about the difference between 26.4 and 27.0 mm headset lower races, and what it looks like when someone does an incomplete job going from one to the other. Did my best to get it right with a digital caliper. Seems fine.
I'll probably ride it around a bit, then let it go cheap on Craigslist or give it to the co-op. Glad it's done.
I did an evapo-rust frame dunk followed by frame saver. Still lots of rust worms under the paint, but I felt better about myself. The hub races are really bad, but at least they're greased now. Also tried to get rid of the rust on the MA40 eyelets by bathing in evapo-rust, with mixed success. Heck, somebody's probably just gonna steal it and throw it in the river anyway!
Had some Accushift thumbies that I'll probably regret using, but they worked really well with the Suntour Edge derailleurs. I was going to use some aero mount DT shifters from the box-o-crap, but it was just better with Accushift all around. Check out the Accushift cable housing! This bike also taught me about the difference between 26.4 and 27.0 mm headset lower races, and what it looks like when someone does an incomplete job going from one to the other. Did my best to get it right with a digital caliper. Seems fine.
I'll probably ride it around a bit, then let it go cheap on Craigslist or give it to the co-op. Glad it's done.
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