Schweinhund

Didn't think a thing til you said... Yes it is. if he had a block of wood clamped low and set it on the wood, that would be slightly better, but not much.

Dirt Road Blues 

How do?


​​​​​​​Better than what exactly? This set up works great. I've built and worked on several bikes this way. It's both secure and safe.

Dirt Road Blues 

Padding between the jaws, and a careful touch to dial just enough clamping pressure. Nothing more. Never had a problem. Also, I'm not a shop and I don't work on other people's bikes.

Schweinhund

It's a little odd, but if it works for you it's great.

merziac

Looks just about right to me, serious biz all laid out and going (mostly) according to plan.

mosinglespeeder

Brilliant!! Thanks!

VintageSteelEU

I had some time to disassemble Suntour Cyclone (Dec 1975 version) I got recently. One of the pulley wheel bolts and the B screw had to be drilled out as they wouldn't budge. Which means that after cleaning the derailleur, re-greasing it and putting it back together I was missing B screw and a fairly rare M6 pulley wheel bolt.
B screw is easy, for now I replaced it with something from a different derailleur until I buy some knurled one that won't look out of place. The pulley wheel bolt might be a bit of a problem, though I think I will get a partially treaded M6 hex head bolt, cut it to size and re-tap if necessary. I also wanted to replace the jockey wheels themselves, but of course, it's not something one can find readily available. Well, I'll find them eventually.
One interesting thing I discovered trying various pulley wheels I had knocking about, is that the guide pulley wheel from Sachs / Huret Eco derailleur (and probably more) is a pretty good match. It's the same thickness and can take the same bushing (and M6 bolt). The problem is that SunTour dust shields do not fit, and Huret own ones have internal diameter a tad to small. So drilling them wider is on cards at some point. And I'll have to get some new bushings in the right size as the current one are not in the gratest condition, but I already found general purpose brass ones for sale.
Then I remembered I have Suntour Skitter somewhere. And bingo! I could at least put the Cyclone together for now. I still need to replace the jockey wheels as Skitter ones are only a little bit less worn and I also want the Skitter complete and usable. Next step: power shifters.

Aardwolf

I've replaced Cyclone II GT pulley wheels twice using BBB RollerBoys sealed roller bearings, they're quite cheap and also look the same.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-bdp-01-a.html

jamesdak 

Gave the headset on the Supercourse a full service today. Grease was pretty brown and old looking but still seemed to be working and didn't feel very gritty.

The bike only has two or three small paint chips on it. I realized the color is very close to my Avalon so after the USA World Cup Game I'll run into town to get a Duplicolor paint pen that matches the car. I'll touch the bike up with that. I'm also going to swing by the bike shop and grab a new Hollowtech II BB. Decided to rebuild this with one of the more modern groupsets I have. I'd love to go full Suntour Superbe on this but good conditons cranks and brake levers are more than I want to spend right now with Christmas coming. Plus if I decide to move this on most people will probably appreciate the STI shifting.

BTinNYC 

Polished with rubbing compound and touched up with white pinstriping paint. I'll get after the fork tomorrow, then I'm a waxing away from assembly.

merziac

WOW, nice!

VintageSteelEU

I use Rollerboys on Shimano 600EX SIS (6208) and I'm quite happy with them (it's probably time I clean them, actually). But checking the bushings that come with them, all are 5mm, so the new standard. I'm guessing Suntour must have switched to that at some point in the 80's and Cyclone II got M5 bolts instead of earlier M6. Just a guess.
I've ordered some brass bushings today that should be and OK replacement for the definitely worn-out and tired ones. Well, they are about 1mm too long, but that's an easy thing to correct. I might get either conversion kit or Simplex jockey wheels at some point. For now I'll temporarily use the Skitter ones and then Huret ones when I have time to modify the shields. I also have another Cyclone on its way, so we'll see, maybe its jockey wheels are in a better shape. I'm quite excited to try these old derailleurs. Really like the way they are designed and the way they look. And whilst I'm waiting for the stuff to come through the post, I decided to prepare the Power Shifters I had. I have two sets of levers, so today I cleaned and polished the first one. They probably weren't that shiny even new.
The more I look at SunTour components, the more I like their engineering and designs. It's a real shame this company didn't survive. It feels like they really had some great ideas and a lot to contribute.

SurferRosa

Got my Sun m13ii rims yesterday and tackled the front wheel build. Ran into a few problems with stripped spoke/nipples when finishing it. Surprised to experience a lot of torsion. But did manage to line up the hub logo and rim label, which we know is most important.



Rim looks really nice with the Conti 5000, but I'm a little disappointed the 25mm tire measures only 23mm.



^ I removed the ugly half of the rim label.

Now working on the rear and haven't run into any of the same torsion issues. Sonic Youth is helping with the dish.



.

SurferRosa

I'm going to blame this on poor threads with the front spokes. Couldn't spin a nipple very far on the fronts with just my fingers. They sent the fronts 1mm longer than ordered too.

​​​​​

BTinNYC 

VintageSteelEU

What spokes and nipples did you use?

SurferRosa

Sapim Race spokes from wheelbuildingparts.com with 14mm brass nipples

obrentharris 

Do you know which tints work with the one shot?
Brent

BTinNYC 

I do not. It is an oil based enamel, if that's any help. It really flows nicely into chipped areas and then levels a bit.
Another Brent

jamesdak 

Well, I hacked away at the Raleigh throughout the day. I went with Ultegra 6510 STI shifters, a 6600 53/39 crankset, Dura Ace BB, Dura Ac 7700 RD and FD and then Dura Ace 7800 brakes. The only stem I had for my fit in the house is was a fairly heavy old Sakae and I stuck with the Sakae handlebars since the stem clamp appears to be 25.4. ISIS Keo pedals and a Fizik saddle on the original (and also heavy) Sakae 25.8 seatpost. Wheels are Dura Ace hubs with Open Pro rims. Mostly finished though I do need to trim off the excess cables and then decide on a bar tape color. Have a few saddle choices too to decide on. For now it's got a blue Arione with a grey stripe in the center..Right now it's 20 lbs 12 ozs. That's a big improvement over the 24 lbs 14 ozs I picked it up at.

VintageSteelEU

I thought these are Sapim, which surprised me a bit. I never had problems with Sapim spokes (touch wood) but my "never" isn't very long (2 years of wheel building). I had problems with their Hexagonal head polyax nipples, but could have been a bad batch and I'm not going to try them again anyway, so difficult to compare several builds.

Bianchigirll 

jamesdak I’d try blue tape to try and get that blue in the graphics to stand out more

So there’s still a dusty unloved SuperBee languishing in the dustbin

SurferRosa

I don't think there was a problem with the actual spokes, it was just the threading. The rear spokes were perfecto.

Classtime 

I think the modern clinchers are made to measure as labeled on modern wide rims.

JacobLee 

I found this at an estate sale over the summer with a bunch of cool parts hanging on it. I quickly un-hung the cool parts, then slowly spiffed-up the not so cool parts, and made it into an upright townie. It was a good way to clear out some of the chaff from the parts bin.



I did an evapo-rust frame dunk followed by frame saver. Still lots of rust worms under the paint, but I felt better about myself. The hub races are really bad, but at least they're greased now. Also tried to get rid of the rust on the MA40 eyelets by bathing in evapo-rust, with mixed success. Heck, somebody's probably just gonna steal it and throw it in the river anyway!



Had some Accushift thumbies that I'll probably regret using, but they worked really well with the Suntour Edge derailleurs. I was going to use some aero mount DT shifters from the box-o-crap, but it was just better with Accushift all around. Check out the Accushift cable housing! This bike also taught me about the difference between 26.4 and 27.0 mm headset lower races, and what it looks like when someone does an incomplete job going from one to the other. Did my best to get it right with a digital caliper. Seems fine.



I'll probably ride it around a bit, then let it go cheap on Craigslist or give it to the co-op. Glad it's done.