1970 Cinelli SC N+1
01-13-23, 09:44 PM
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1970 Cinelli SC N+1
The latest addition is an Iconic 1970 Cinelli Supercorsa. PO had the frame refinished 10 years ago, and as usual I go with a period build with Campy, Cinelli, Fiamme, Regina. I won't get to ride it till the roads clean up in the spring.
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01-13-23, 11:20 PM
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What a beauty... nice job with the build!
Mind if I ask what size tubulars you mounted?
Mind if I ask what size tubulars you mounted?
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01-14-23, 12:03 AM
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Gorgeous bike, as always with your collection!
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01-14-23, 12:21 AM
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Fantastic, absolutely beautiful. 
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01-14-23, 10:10 AM
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Smokin NICE!
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01-14-23, 02:27 PM
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That's quite lovely, Andy. Nice work.
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01-14-23, 05:10 PM
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I guess it's okay. If you like that sort of thing, that is. 
Oh, who am I kidding? It's beautiful. I bet it rides great, too.
Oh, who am I kidding? It's beautiful. I bet it rides great, too.
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"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
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01-14-23, 05:20 PM
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Please take this as a caution, rather than a criticism. Most vintage hubs are not designed for radial spoking. (I broke a Shimano hub across three flange holes a couple of years after I radially spoked it.)
Other than that, the bike is indeed a stunner, and nicely equipped.
If I am doing my tooth jump counting properly, that looks like a 3-3-4-4 increment pattern in back, consistent with the very common 14-17-20-24-28. I couldn't get the Campag. NR on my Bianchi to handle more 26T in back.
Other than that, the bike is indeed a stunner, and nicely equipped.
If I am doing my tooth jump counting properly, that looks like a 3-3-4-4 increment pattern in back, consistent with the very common 14-17-20-24-28. I couldn't get the Campag. NR on my Bianchi to handle more 26T in back.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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01-14-23, 06:53 PM
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Please take this as a caution, rather than a criticism. Most vintage hubs are not designed for radial spoking. (I broke a Shimano hub across three flange holes a couple of years after I radially spoked it.)
Other than that, the bike is indeed a stunner, and nicely equipped.
If I am doing my tooth jump counting properly, that looks like a 3-3-4-4 increment pattern in back, consistent with the very common 14-17-20-24-28. I couldn't get the Campag. NR on my Bianchi to handle more 26T in back.
Other than that, the bike is indeed a stunner, and nicely equipped.
If I am doing my tooth jump counting properly, that looks like a 3-3-4-4 increment pattern in back, consistent with the very common 14-17-20-24-28. I couldn't get the Campag. NR on my Bianchi to handle more 26T in back.
The freewheel is a 14/28. NR rear derailleurs are rated up to 26 teeth. However, if one plays with chain length and position of the wheel in the dropout it shifts fine.
Thank you for your comments.
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01-15-23, 03:02 AM
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Oh, hey! Were those the original wheels from the Urago?
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01-16-23, 10:42 AM
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Sheesh that’s a nice looking bike. Wish mine had a head badge like that.
01-24-23, 12:05 PM
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Beautiful!
03-15-23, 10:30 PM
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I appreciate your concern with the wheels. I keep a close eye on them, and since i have had them they have been extremely stable. I wouldn't build them this way, but I see them as a bit of a novelty. I took the wheels in trade and they have been in this configuration since all the component parts were new.
The freewheel is a 14/28. NR rear derailleurs are rated up to 26 teeth. However, if one plays with chain length and position of the wheel in the dropout it shifts fine.
Thank you for your comments.
The freewheel is a 14/28. NR rear derailleurs are rated up to 26 teeth. However, if one plays with chain length and position of the wheel in the dropout it shifts fine.
Thank you for your comments.
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03-16-23, 12:12 AM
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Cinelli 66 bars? And is that seatpost the famous one that requires the ":Z" wrench? ( I believe I still have mine.)
Beautiful bike!OP PO (Edit but OP too) had good tastes.
Beautiful bike!
03-16-23, 06:10 AM
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1970 Cinelli SC
Yes, Cinelli 66 bars. I have a z wrench, but I don't find it helps. I use a regular combination end wrench to adjust the saddle on the post.
I bought the frameset from the PO and had the majority of the components in my boxes of stuff.
03-16-23, 03:42 PM
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WOW! That thing is freaking BAD!
03-16-23, 03:52 PM
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superb bike
thanks for sharing
thanks for sharing
03-16-23, 07:50 PM
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Any imperfections? It looks brand new.
03-16-23, 10:26 PM
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very close.
the headbadge screws should not have countersink visible. Might try industrial sewing machine bobbin case screws. Should be slotted as they are but the heads are too large.
the badge is probably a reproduction- there is a gap between the badge and the tube- oversize?
the head tube should have a two color made in Italy sticker- Greg Softley? Placement varies- sometimes at the top, sometimes at the bottom of the headtube. Last applied on top of the clear is correct.
the headbadge screws should not have countersink visible. Might try industrial sewing machine bobbin case screws. Should be slotted as they are but the heads are too large.
the badge is probably a reproduction- there is a gap between the badge and the tube- oversize?
the head tube should have a two color made in Italy sticker- Greg Softley? Placement varies- sometimes at the top, sometimes at the bottom of the headtube. Last applied on top of the clear is correct.
Last edited by repechage; 03-16-23 at 10:30 PM.
03-17-23, 08:29 AM
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very close.
the headbadge screws should not have countersink visible. Might try industrial sewing machine bobbin case screws. Should be slotted as they are but the heads are too large.
the badge is probably a reproduction- there is a gap between the badge and the tube- oversize?
the head tube should have a two color made in Italy sticker- Greg Softley? Placement varies- sometimes at the top, sometimes at the bottom of the headtube. Last applied on top of the clear is correct.
the headbadge screws should not have countersink visible. Might try industrial sewing machine bobbin case screws. Should be slotted as they are but the heads are too large.
the badge is probably a reproduction- there is a gap between the badge and the tube- oversize?
the head tube should have a two color made in Italy sticker- Greg Softley? Placement varies- sometimes at the top, sometimes at the bottom of the headtube. Last applied on top of the clear is correct.