steelbikeguy

Kudos to anyone with the skill and nerve to do their own lug lining!

It'd be interesting to hear from anyone who has done this professionally. I can't help but wonder how many frames it takes before you feel fully competent, and how many are needed before you attempt some of the more elaborate stuff. I've got a Hetchins with lug lining that just amazes me....



Steve in Peoria

Velo Mule

I first tried a paint pen. It worked ok, but the lines were thicker than I would have liked them to be. Then on the recommendation of members here, I got a FluidWriter and filled it with Testors Gold paint since that is what I had. This was easy to apply and the lines were uniform and a width that I was happy with.

Paint pen on Panasonic around the head lugs and fork crown in both silver and black:


I'll have to see if I can get a similar picture of the Fuji Esprit with lug lining with the FluidWriter tonight.

smd4

Gorgeous Hetchins!

I think I'm leaning towards a white paint pen first. It should be easy enough to correct if I don't like the results.

himespau 

The one time I tried it, I guess I'd call it a 10 foot paint job. Looks OK from about that distance.

Lattz

Would not be an option for Steve's Hetchins or on Nervex lugs (and I am also just yet to try it), but for simpler ones you can cheat a bit with modeler's masking tape. Tamiya has 1mm, but Hasegawa has 0.5mm as well, Run around the lugs twice then remove the one closer to the edge and paint.

Or if you have a steady hand......

At Rolls Royce only one man can do the pinstriping.

smd4

Andy_K 

Following up on the details of my post about the Sharpie paint pens. First, I confirmed that the pen I used is "fine point" -- "extra fine" and "medium" are also available. I can only imagine how thick the "medium" is. Second, the pen says the paint is oil based. I know enough about paint to know that's important, but not enough to know if it's good or bad.

Looking at the results in my pictures, it strikes me that what Jeff Bock did is kind of analogous to anti-aliasing in a digital image. The lug lining isn't trying to call attention to itself but rather enhancing the contrast of the edge it's on, at least around the chrome. It's a bit more prominent on the lug lines that are orange on both sides.



I'd guess there are a range of opinions on how the lug lining should look, especially in terms of thickness. I like the subtle effect around the chrome lugs. I've got a Maschiagi-built Coppi that instead of lug lining has a bit of green fade around the chrome lugs. I'm not sure I like that, but I have been trying to figure out how to get chrome lugs to "pop" more with various paint colors, so I think I understand why they did it.

Fahrenheit531 

A nice brush and the correct paint are the only answer if you want professional-grade results.

Aardwolf

I've done some research previously and found a few interesting articles:

Different types of lining: https://www.classiclightweights.co.u...tions-top-eye/
Apparetly there are even more difficult things to attempt

Doug Fattic mentions the Fluid Writer: https://www.bikeforums.net/21711750-post10.html
Velospace: https://velospace.org/forums/discuss...y-well-easier/

obrentharris 

The classic Schwinn Paramount lug lining where the line is held just a small fraction of an inch away from the edge of the lug sure impresses me.



I won't be attempting this anytime soon.
Brent

The Golden Boy 

I did my 720 with a paint pen. I'm not so "artistic." I didn't realize you can clip the tip of the paint pen- to make finer lines. On the plus side, it was easy to clean up my eff ups.

I thought I had better pix when I did it... must've gotten lost on peebucket.


1985 Trek 720 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

JaccoW

Done it on a few bikes using Edding 780 paint marker in the 0.8mm extra-fine size. Apparently you can even get spare tips once you mess up the old one. Probably a messy affair to swap them though.




Not sure if I did it on this one:

smd4

They’re simple lugs. It’s not like that Rolls guy completely freehanding it. That’s pure skill.

Lugs are self-guiding. I’ll try the paint pen first if I can find it in white. If no good, I’ll try the Fluid Writer. Last resort will be brush and paint.

ollo_ollo

Trimmed a cheap paint pen. Still gave slightly thick lines, but OK by me. Don

1971 Stella Series 70

Almost complete

sbarner 

That's what came to my mind when I started reading this thread. The story was that, when the person doing the pinstriping on the Paramounts retired, somewhere around 1969, they didn't have anyone else who could do that level of work so they just stopped the practice. I've always marveled at not only how the pinstriper was able to keep such a precise distance from the lug edge, but also how the lines blend so perfectly to points. Visually, they correct for the crudeness of the actual lug edge. When you watch a professional pinstriper at work, or even an advanced amateur, you come to realize that there is no substitute for years of practice.

A beginner follows the lug, and this shows in the way that the way the pinstripe follows imperfections, wobbles a bit, and varies in thickness. I would say that it is almost always a mistake to add pinstriping yourself to a frame that you have paid to be painted by a talented professional. Get a pro to do it. If you've painted the frame yourself, then have at it. If the bike is in its original paint and never had pinstriping, you may actually decrease its resale if it has collector value.

smd4

Luckily I don't plan on ever reselling my bike, whatever "collector value" it may or may not have.

The Golden Boy 

Do a dry run with a stick or a pen or something so you actually know how it goes.

My hand got more tired much faster than I expected- and I got cocky/impatient leading to smudges- including the DS seat tube lug.

https://flic.kr/p/2gfcAir

Doug Fattic 

As a pro I have to have professional looking results. I use the Fluidwriters and House of Color striping and lettering enamel. It comes in various colors. Their advantage is that this paint has a great concentration of pigments so it covers well with one pass. I also need to thin it sometimes with U00 Striping Reducer to get it to flow properly through the Fluidwriter. Yes the tiny little 4 oz can is fairly expensive but I want great results and not so so results. Neither do I want to go over the area twice to get enough coverage so the base frame color is not visible through the striping. In addition I use House of Kolor paints on my frames so everything is chemically compatible.

In the past I have used paint pens similar to Sharpies and sword brushes too. I can make them work. The Fluidwriters work best for me. I have very steady hands so that helps. I can underline a sentence in a book without the line having any wiggles. One minor tip is that I use toothpicks to scrape away a tiny bulge if one occurs. They don't scratch the underlying paint.

Aardwolf

Thanks for mentioning that.
I've just got a Fluid Writer clone and I've been looking at paint (gold on red with white panels)
Here's what I've found so far

£24 for 4oz - House of Kolor Striping & Lettering Enamel U24 Rich Gold II: Out of Stock https://www.jawel.co.uk/shop/product...-rich-gold-ii/

£30 for 8oz - One Shot Gold - always mentioned but "not as good as it used to be" and I can't get it in the UK: https://www.stonehouses.co.uk/one-sh...llic-gold.html
$8.33 for 1/4oz - Testors Metallic Gold - not available in UK: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311426963270
£11 for 8oz - Paragon Metallic Gold lining enamel - synthetic alkyd enamel: https://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/Meta...ng-Enamel.html
£20 for 2oz - Alphanamel Metallic Gold: https://www.sabrepaints.co.uk/produc...metallic-gold/

I've got some Paragon Metallic Gold lining enamel in the post, mainly because it's cheaper and my main paint is also synthetic alkyd enamel so it's going to be compatible.
My only concern is whether one coat is going to be opaque, but it's worth a try.

In the UK it looks like I can get Paragon or Alphanamel.

smd4

Just ordered a Fluid Writer.

Velo Mule

As promised in post #27. This is the Fuji Espree with a FluidWriter using Testors model paint. The line is finer than the Panasonic above. This was just a trial. This is not a restored bike or even a rider. It was just for practice. The lug lining sure helped to draw your eye away from all the touch up paint.


I filled the Fuji embossing in the fork crown too. I wanted to see how it came out. Not bad, however, I could have done better. The lug lining also makes the frame look like higher end model. The lug lining on this lower end Fuji gave it a nice upgraded look as long as you didn't get too close.

Classtime 

One Shot with a brush over brushed on Rustoleum.

smd4

Those look nice, guys.

ehcoplex 

Classtime , that whole paint job looks great. Did you thin the Rustoleum? How many coats? Sanding between?

Classtime 

IME, a new can doesn't need thinning. I had the can at room temperature. Three coats of primer, three coats of color, waiting a week before sanding after each coat. The waiting at least a week between coats is key. It held up really well for two years of commuting. The picture with the Bontrager bar tape was from my for sale pics. I miss that bike. At the time, my wife was still counting bikes