What have you been wrenching on lately?
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#6627
aka Tom Reingold
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[MENTION=419634]Nemosengineer[/MENTION], Mr Bill! Oh no!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#6628
aka Tom Reingold
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Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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My commuter bike, a 1974 Raleigh International, had Nitto mustache handlebars since 2015. I decided they’re not right for me. [MENTION=94771]ascherer[/MENTION] said I should try these old Randonneur bars. Yesterday after work, I took them to the bike coop in Brooklyn, hoping that having all the tools on hand would make it quick and easy. It didn’t, because I ended up helping two people work on their bikes. I can’t give up the opportunity to teach when it arises. I didn’t finish the job on my bike, but it’s safe and working. I need to replace the brake cables, re-tape the bars, adjust the lever positions, etc.
New handlebars always make it feel like I have a new bike. I have a tall stem with a short extension, and that makes sense for mustache bars. Now I’m more upright than I’m used to. I’ll take some time to decide if I want to change the stem. Maybe this is best for me, now that my back is so stiff and weak. I just got home from work, and I am definitely less fatigued than I was with the low-slung bars. But I know I rode more slowly because riding fast while so upright doesn’t come naturally to me. Ideally, I will look for a sweet spot, but it seems tricky.
New handlebars always make it feel like I have a new bike. I have a tall stem with a short extension, and that makes sense for mustache bars. Now I’m more upright than I’m used to. I’ll take some time to decide if I want to change the stem. Maybe this is best for me, now that my back is so stiff and weak. I just got home from work, and I am definitely less fatigued than I was with the low-slung bars. But I know I rode more slowly because riding fast while so upright doesn’t come naturally to me. Ideally, I will look for a sweet spot, but it seems tricky.
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New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#6629
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Bikes: 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
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Originally Posted by noglider
My commuter bike, a 1974 Raleigh International, had Nitto mustache handlebars since 2015. I decided they’re not right for me. [MENTION=94771]ascherer[/MENTION] said I should try these old Randonneur bars.
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#6631
Got them here
https://fortnine.ca/en/moose-7-8in-c...teel-handlebar
Canadian webstore but surely available elsewhere!
https://fortnine.ca/en/moose-7-8in-c...teel-handlebar
Canadian webstore but surely available elsewhere!
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#6632
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I've been wanting to get the 79 Trek 930 back on the road. The last few times I rode it, it felt odd in the back end. Like a cracked DO, or a cracked something else. I didn't find anything and hung it up anyway
This morning I put together a nine speed rear wheel and crammed it into the dropouts and then grabbed the first front wheel I cane across. Tubular. I hope to test ride it in the evening coolness or, failing that, the morning coolness tomorrow. And, if the seven speed rear on the Paramount fits, I'll trade it for the nine speed on the Trek. Trek dropouts measure 124mm and somewhere around here is a wheel built specifically for it.
I almost forgot. I was getting those results while riding low tire pressures. Both are currently pumped up to 100 psi. Vamos a ver.
Addendum: That back wheel was missing a spoke, and was wrapped in Velox rim tape. I didn't want to pull it off, so punched a hole in it with an awl from the woodshop, and then taped over it with electrical tape. Again, vamos a ver
This morning I put together a nine speed rear wheel and crammed it into the dropouts and then grabbed the first front wheel I cane across. Tubular. I hope to test ride it in the evening coolness or, failing that, the morning coolness tomorrow. And, if the seven speed rear on the Paramount fits, I'll trade it for the nine speed on the Trek. Trek dropouts measure 124mm and somewhere around here is a wheel built specifically for it.
I almost forgot. I was getting those results while riding low tire pressures. Both are currently pumped up to 100 psi. Vamos a ver.
Addendum: That back wheel was missing a spoke, and was wrapped in Velox rim tape. I didn't want to pull it off, so punched a hole in it with an awl from the woodshop, and then taped over it with electrical tape. Again, vamos a ver
Last edited by seedsbelize2; 08-02-23 at 10:54 AM.
#6633
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In preparation for a lightweight clincher wheelset build I was looking at various rims and hubs and decided to eventually go for Amrosio Excellight as good quality rims that are probably one of the lightest clincher rims available right now. As much as I'd like to keep everything period correct, it's not that easy to find new old stock rims and also modern rims are, generally speaking, better (except for Mavic, which seem to be getting worse with each generation). When it comes to the hubs though, I decided that since I want to go for 6 speed freewheel, I could stay with late 70's - early 80's hubs. Of course, that led to some problems, as Excellight come only with 28 or 32 spoke holes and 32H hubs were not generally that popular back in that era. Bicycle the wheelset is going to be for originally came with Maillard hubs and I was lucky to find a set of Bianchi-branded set of Maillard 700 32H hubs from the late 70's. I bought them as used and in need of servicing. They certainly have been laced to a rim before, but when I opened them, I found out they are almost new or barely used. No trace of any wear on the cups and cones.
The rear one was filled with old grease which dried out to a consistency of tar or adhesive, no wonder the axle spinned with a lot of resistance. Someone probably attempted to overhaul the front one at some point, because grease was alright in that one and different from the rear and the axle didn't look like a MAillard one, but cones were too tight. Both hubs were thoroughly cleaned, packed with Mobil XHP 222 and despite the old bearing balls being perfectly OK, I decided to replace them with some grade 10 ones I had in the parts box. Nice and smooth now. I just hope the XHP 222 is going to be OK for the plastic dust caps, but these can also be replaced and metal ones can be cannibalised from pretty much any Maillard hob out there.
I also converted them both to solid axles. This is mostly because solid axles + track nuts are lighter than than hollow axles with skewers and also to make possible wheel theft slightly more time consuming. Though it seems the one I used for the rear is bent ever so slightly (and it was the only one I had at hand), so that will have to be replaced. Looks like I also run out of proper track nuts, so that's on the shopping list. Thankfully, I'm not going to use them over the next couple of months. Looking forward to building that wheelset though.
All seems good, packed with sticky grease though
I don't know what kind of grease this is, but definitely not anything you want inside bicycle hubs
New grease, new bearing balls, new life
So shiny! So smooth!
That was yesterday though. The next project is already being planned. Some time ago I got a decent deal on a used MA40 wheelset. I was only really interested in the rims and using them on my daily commuting bike (hopefully the wheels arrive soon and the rims are in good condition) and will be lacing them to Shimano hubs I have. The rims, however, come laced to two Campagnolo Athena (8sp) hubs. Which gave me an idea of using them to build a wheelset for a mate of mine as his birthday is coming soon. His bicycle has 10sp Campagnolo (Chorus / Veloce mix, I think) drivetrain. The problem is, the wheels he has on that bicycle are completely unsuitable for him. Firstly, it's a heavy, hybrid bicycle. With a rack and panier bags. With a rider who weighs around 90kg himself. The wheels are both 28h in a weird, sporty pattern, so in short, they are totally unsuitable for what that bicycle is meant to be used for. Ages back he managed to loose a spoke at the rear as well as get the rim cracked and the bicycle now is not getting any use and slowly rotting away. So I decided I'll build him a proper set of heavy duty wheels. Honest, 36 spokes each, 3 cross laced, as they should be.
The rear hub on the wheelset I'm waiting for has the freehub and axle missing. So I found a possible donor, Campy Veloce 9sp. I think this should take the 10sp Campy cassette (smallest cog 12T) currently on that bike. That again, was bought on the cheap in need of service. Quite a chunky one too, at 400g, but weight is not important with this project.
Today I opened it and cleaned everything. Gave the shell a bit of a polish too and it actually looks quite nice now. Looks like everything is in decent condition, so if the transplant to Athena proves impossible, I can always pack the Veloce with grease and build the rear wheel on that.
Got to say, I like the quality of the materials. Cups and cones are in very good condition and everything seems to be well made. What I'm not sure I like is the drive side bearings being somewhere in the middle of the axle (ok, I know, there's an additional cartridge in the freehub, but I'm just not used to such design). And also the proprietary axle design. Should something go wrong and I had to replace an axle in a hub like this couple of years down the line, I might as well just toss the whole thing out as the part will very likely not be available (or cheap). I'm also not sure about using Alu for the freehub body of a hub that's not exactly meant for the professional racers. Certainly an interesting design, but I'm not sure I follow the Campy engineers design philosophy. Which is fine, the thing will still work as intended, probably for quite some time.
Ready to be dissected
All nice and clean
The rear one was filled with old grease which dried out to a consistency of tar or adhesive, no wonder the axle spinned with a lot of resistance. Someone probably attempted to overhaul the front one at some point, because grease was alright in that one and different from the rear and the axle didn't look like a MAillard one, but cones were too tight. Both hubs were thoroughly cleaned, packed with Mobil XHP 222 and despite the old bearing balls being perfectly OK, I decided to replace them with some grade 10 ones I had in the parts box. Nice and smooth now. I just hope the XHP 222 is going to be OK for the plastic dust caps, but these can also be replaced and metal ones can be cannibalised from pretty much any Maillard hob out there.
I also converted them both to solid axles. This is mostly because solid axles + track nuts are lighter than than hollow axles with skewers and also to make possible wheel theft slightly more time consuming. Though it seems the one I used for the rear is bent ever so slightly (and it was the only one I had at hand), so that will have to be replaced. Looks like I also run out of proper track nuts, so that's on the shopping list. Thankfully, I'm not going to use them over the next couple of months. Looking forward to building that wheelset though.
All seems good, packed with sticky grease though
I don't know what kind of grease this is, but definitely not anything you want inside bicycle hubs
New grease, new bearing balls, new life
So shiny! So smooth!
That was yesterday though. The next project is already being planned. Some time ago I got a decent deal on a used MA40 wheelset. I was only really interested in the rims and using them on my daily commuting bike (hopefully the wheels arrive soon and the rims are in good condition) and will be lacing them to Shimano hubs I have. The rims, however, come laced to two Campagnolo Athena (8sp) hubs. Which gave me an idea of using them to build a wheelset for a mate of mine as his birthday is coming soon. His bicycle has 10sp Campagnolo (Chorus / Veloce mix, I think) drivetrain. The problem is, the wheels he has on that bicycle are completely unsuitable for him. Firstly, it's a heavy, hybrid bicycle. With a rack and panier bags. With a rider who weighs around 90kg himself. The wheels are both 28h in a weird, sporty pattern, so in short, they are totally unsuitable for what that bicycle is meant to be used for. Ages back he managed to loose a spoke at the rear as well as get the rim cracked and the bicycle now is not getting any use and slowly rotting away. So I decided I'll build him a proper set of heavy duty wheels. Honest, 36 spokes each, 3 cross laced, as they should be.
The rear hub on the wheelset I'm waiting for has the freehub and axle missing. So I found a possible donor, Campy Veloce 9sp. I think this should take the 10sp Campy cassette (smallest cog 12T) currently on that bike. That again, was bought on the cheap in need of service. Quite a chunky one too, at 400g, but weight is not important with this project.
Today I opened it and cleaned everything. Gave the shell a bit of a polish too and it actually looks quite nice now. Looks like everything is in decent condition, so if the transplant to Athena proves impossible, I can always pack the Veloce with grease and build the rear wheel on that.
Got to say, I like the quality of the materials. Cups and cones are in very good condition and everything seems to be well made. What I'm not sure I like is the drive side bearings being somewhere in the middle of the axle (ok, I know, there's an additional cartridge in the freehub, but I'm just not used to such design). And also the proprietary axle design. Should something go wrong and I had to replace an axle in a hub like this couple of years down the line, I might as well just toss the whole thing out as the part will very likely not be available (or cheap). I'm also not sure about using Alu for the freehub body of a hub that's not exactly meant for the professional racers. Certainly an interesting design, but I'm not sure I follow the Campy engineers design philosophy. Which is fine, the thing will still work as intended, probably for quite some time.
Ready to be dissected
All nice and clean
#6634
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
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Enik retromod done
I think it looks pretty cool!
1 ring + guard
Looks pretty zippy!
4 color palette
1 ring + guard
Looks pretty zippy!
4 color palette
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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#6635
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I just finished the first draft of my Motobecane Grand Jubilee project. These aren’t the tires I plan to use. I have some 34mm gravel tubular tires I plan to use instead. However, I wanted to see what the bike would look like with tanwalls before I glue on the other tires. These are 28mm, and imho they kind of look puny with this frame’s generous clearance.
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#6636
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Location: Murrieta Ca.
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I just finished the first draft of my Motobecane Grand Jubilee project. These aren’t the tires I plan to use. I have some 34mm gravel tubular tires I plan to use instead. However, I wanted to see what the bike would look like with tanwalls before I glue on the other tires. These are 28mm, and imho they kind of look puny with this frame’s generous clearance.
: Mike
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Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
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#6638
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Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Gitane Gran Tourisme, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '75 Peugeot PR-10L, '80 Colnago Super, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin
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#6639
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Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 7,389
Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Gitane Gran Tourisme, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '75 Peugeot PR-10L, '80 Colnago Super, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin
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I was 11, turned 12, living in SoCal, during the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles. Watching Alexi Grewal win gold in the ‘84 Olympic Road Race is what sparked my interest in road cycling. Years later, as a 16-year-old jr. racer during the Whiskey Creek Stage Race in Mammoth, CA, my teammates and I were enjoying an evening post-race hot tub at the small hotel when Alexi joined us. It was just a few teammates and Alexi. I think this was ‘89 or ‘90. He was on the Crest/Cannondale Team at the time. It was the night of the penultimate stage and he had been penalized (maybe even disqualified?) for getting caught throwing a punch at another rider earlier that day. We talked about his time with 7-11, European racing, doping (paraphrasing…” they even have pills to keep you warm”), and of course the ‘84 Olympics. Highlight of my youth.
Last edited by gaucho777; 08-04-23 at 02:51 AM.
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#6640
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I just finished the first draft of my Motobecane Grand Jubilee project. These aren’t the tires I plan to use. I have some 34mm gravel tubular tires I plan to use instead. However, I wanted to see what the bike would look like with tanwalls before I glue on the other tires. These are 28mm, and imho they kind of look puny with this frame’s generous clearance.
#6641
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Location: SoCal
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Bikes: Cuevas Custom, Cimmaron, 1988 "Pinalized Rockma", 1984 Trek 510, Moulton custom touring, Raleigh Competition GS, Bridgestone Mb-2 & 3, 1980's Peugeot - US, City, & Canyon Express (6)
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Mis-matched old tires on the Raleigh Competition GS I just bought.
Had some new 32mm from an auction score
They were judging my tire swapping technique through the whole process!
Tires swapped - no rhyme or reason to labels/stem relation - they were right to judge
Had some new 32mm from an auction score
They were judging my tire swapping technique through the whole process!
Tires swapped - no rhyme or reason to labels/stem relation - they were right to judge
Last edited by SoCaled; 08-04-23 at 08:07 PM. Reason: added pic of bike
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#6642
Junior Member
Well, it ain't "wrenching" exactly, but there are wrenches involved, and a vintage pin cushion. So hopefully this post isn't too outta bounds?
I've been wanting to try my hand at sewing up an under saddle tool roll for quite a long time. Finally giving it a go!
I've been wanting to try my hand at sewing up an under saddle tool roll for quite a long time. Finally giving it a go!
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#6643
Henderson, NV
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 674
Bikes: Trek Alpha 3700, GT STS DH, Raleigh Grand Prix, Fisher Montare, Fisher CR-7, Fisher Aquila, Diamondback Sorrento, The Bike Beat Revolution, KHS XC 504R
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This project has been on the back burner for over a year. I'm finally able to get around to the brake issues on my GT STS DH.
Original vintage Formula brakes.The front and rear caliper pistons were stuck and wern't moving. I got the front broken free and now am able to bleed and get a good feel. The rears are still stuck in place.
I've removed the caliper and am going to try using compressed air at work to get the piston to break free.
Would it be better to get a fitting screwed on and use brake fluid and a syringe? Any other suggestions?
Here's what I'm working with....
Original vintage Formula brakes.The front and rear caliper pistons were stuck and wern't moving. I got the front broken free and now am able to bleed and get a good feel. The rears are still stuck in place.
I've removed the caliper and am going to try using compressed air at work to get the piston to break free.
Would it be better to get a fitting screwed on and use brake fluid and a syringe? Any other suggestions?
Here's what I'm working with....
#6644
Steel is real
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Not far from Paris
Posts: 2,460
Bikes: 1992Giant Tourer,1992MeridaAlbon,1996Scapin,1998KonaKilaueua,1993Peugeot Prestige,1991RaleighTeamZ(to be upgraded),1998 Jamis Dragon,1992CTWallis(to be built),1998VettaTeam,1995Coppi(to be built),1993Grandis(to be built)
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This project has been on the back burner for over a year. I'm finally able to get around to the brake issues on my GT STS DH.
Original vintage Formula brakes.The front and rear caliper pistons were stuck and wern't moving. I got the front broken free and now am able to bleed and get a good feel. The rears are still stuck in place.
I've removed the caliper and am going to try using compressed air at work to get the piston to break free.
Would it be better to get a fitting screwed on and use brake fluid and a syringe? Any other suggestions?
Here's what I'm working with....
Original vintage Formula brakes.The front and rear caliper pistons were stuck and wern't moving. I got the front broken free and now am able to bleed and get a good feel. The rears are still stuck in place.
I've removed the caliper and am going to try using compressed air at work to get the piston to break free.
Would it be better to get a fitting screwed on and use brake fluid and a syringe? Any other suggestions?
Here's what I'm working with....
#6645
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern NY...Brownville
Posts: 2,661
Bikes: Specialized Aethos, Specialized Diverge Comp E5
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A very nice Cervelo gravel bike yesterday. Replace the tires with Sworks rubber, new metal brake pads, new chain...was immersed. It uses a GRX drivetrain, mechanical, and that is running great. The tires are tubeless and set up quite nicely on Roval wheels.
It was a fun project.
Also replaced the BB bearings.
It was a fun project.
Also replaced the BB bearings.
#6646
Senior Member
[MENTION=549647]Desert Ryder[/MENTION] I'm not sure if this will work on a bicycle, but on my 2002 KLR motorcycle, I used compressed air to pop them out. I had a regular blow nozzle & wrapped the tip with electrical tape to act as sort of a seal, leaving a path for the air to get through. Protect your eyes. That's how the manual said to do it. The bike was sitting outside for about 7 years and after cleaning, just used brake fluid to clean the rubber parts, they work fine. No leaks. The rubber all looked good & pliable once cleaned with brake fluid. Surprisingly, didn't find any corrosion on the metal parts either.
#6647
Henderson, NV
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 674
Bikes: Trek Alpha 3700, GT STS DH, Raleigh Grand Prix, Fisher Montare, Fisher CR-7, Fisher Aquila, Diamondback Sorrento, The Bike Beat Revolution, KHS XC 504R
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[MENTION=549647]Desert Ryder[/MENTION] I'm not sure if this will work on a bicycle, but on my 2002 KLR motorcycle, I used compressed air to pop them out. I had a regular blow nozzle & wrapped the tip with electrical tape to act as sort of a seal, leaving a path for the air to get through. Protect your eyes. That's how the manual said to do it. The bike was sitting outside for about 7 years and after cleaning, just used brake fluid to clean the rubber parts, they work fine. No leaks. The rubber all looked good & pliable once cleaned with brake fluid. Surprisingly, didn't find any corrosion on the metal parts either.
#6648
Cantilever believer
We'll see what they come up with in 2028...
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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#6649
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenwood SC USA
Posts: 2,428
Bikes: 2002 Mercian Vincitore, 1982 Mercian Colorado, 1976 Puch Royal X, 1973 Raleigh Competition, 1971 Gitane Tour de France and others
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I have been lugging around this 1986 Univega Arrowpace for maybe three years. I bought it for $24.99 from the local Salvation Army mainly to stay in the good graces of Calvin, the guy who sorts out their stuff and tips me off when they get interesting bikes. Also, I felt sorry for it.
I had finally fitted nearly new tires from another part-out earlier this week. Today I hauled the bike out onto the porch and went to work. The wheels, which barely turned, were freed of the nearly solid glue the original grease had become, everything in the hubs was cleaned, and behold, the cheap SR hubs run pretty smoothly now. The bottom bracket was worse - but cleaned up easily and is shockingly slick and smooth running now. I squirted Tri-Flow into the cable housings and called it done, more Tri-Flow into the derailleur pivots, fished a used chain out of the hoard and used the 1-foot long fragment of black Tresso in the box to wrap the Grab-Ons where they are torn.
It’s actually not a bad bike - I’ll post it for sale because it would be a great invisible-to-thieves campus bike, but if it doesn’t sell I could see keeping it as a beater ….
A good 20 footer …
I was going to replace the rusted steel chainrings with alloy but the chainring bolts are rusted solid. If it doesn’t sell I’ll pull the crank and drop it into a vat of Evapo-Rust and see what that gets me.
The turkey levers work okay for speed modulation but meh. The stem shifters worked well, too.
Tre-tubi, and originally sold in Greenville. A part of me died when The Great Escape, one of the two bike boom era shops there, became a Trek store.
Decent from the non-drive side
For a cheap bike, that’s a lovely seat stay treatment.
It may be a stamped crown, but it’s a nice stamped crown!
I had finally fitted nearly new tires from another part-out earlier this week. Today I hauled the bike out onto the porch and went to work. The wheels, which barely turned, were freed of the nearly solid glue the original grease had become, everything in the hubs was cleaned, and behold, the cheap SR hubs run pretty smoothly now. The bottom bracket was worse - but cleaned up easily and is shockingly slick and smooth running now. I squirted Tri-Flow into the cable housings and called it done, more Tri-Flow into the derailleur pivots, fished a used chain out of the hoard and used the 1-foot long fragment of black Tresso in the box to wrap the Grab-Ons where they are torn.
It’s actually not a bad bike - I’ll post it for sale because it would be a great invisible-to-thieves campus bike, but if it doesn’t sell I could see keeping it as a beater ….
A good 20 footer …
I was going to replace the rusted steel chainrings with alloy but the chainring bolts are rusted solid. If it doesn’t sell I’ll pull the crank and drop it into a vat of Evapo-Rust and see what that gets me.
The turkey levers work okay for speed modulation but meh. The stem shifters worked well, too.
Tre-tubi, and originally sold in Greenville. A part of me died when The Great Escape, one of the two bike boom era shops there, became a Trek store.
Decent from the non-drive side
For a cheap bike, that’s a lovely seat stay treatment.
It may be a stamped crown, but it’s a nice stamped crown!
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Murrieta Ca.
Posts: 537
Bikes: Teledyne Titan, Bob Jackson Audax Club, Bob Jackson World Tour, AlAn Record Ergal, 3Rensho Katana.
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This is always my favorite day, the Serotta is in its final configuration now with all Dura-Ace 7703 and 7803 set up as a 10 X 3 with a 11-27 titanium Dura Ace cassette. Tonight is fine tuning and a short list of details, then finally the first ride... Woot
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Glamor Photos sometime tomorrow
: Mike
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Glamor Photos sometime tomorrow
: Mike
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Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
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