1993 Koga-Miyata World Traveller project (66cm frame)
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Nice! All of these colors look interesting, in their own way. But whether you go for a classic look or full resto-mod, at the end of the day a dark color will give the best results, I think.
I had a Ford Capri Mk II once, in that diagonal red, white and blue color scheme, and the novelty wore off very, very quickly. Sold it two weeks later.
Within the given range, I think the dark red could be the most interesting choice. I always liked the way Kurt's Superior turned out, although it's more maroon than red. Really classy:
I had a Ford Capri Mk II once, in that diagonal red, white and blue color scheme, and the novelty wore off very, very quickly. Sold it two weeks later.
Within the given range, I think the dark red could be the most interesting choice. I always liked the way Kurt's Superior turned out, although it's more maroon than red. Really classy:
I probably want something a bit more outspoken but the blue hubs probably betrayed that a little bit.
But a bike with too many in your face bits and pieces is just a mess. So it's a good way to try some things for now and mull over it for later.
Thanks for the input.
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#28
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Just found out the blue Koga hub is 32H and of course blue is the only colour that SON doesn't offer in 32H and only in 36H. Red for some reason is offered in 32H. But a 36H front and 32H rear is just weird I think. Hmmm, back to the drawing board on that one.
Also, Stock version for BikeCad.
Also, Stock version for BikeCad.
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Not much going on here besides me fighting a stuck bottom bracket and deep cleaning some of the parts that came on the bike.
With the exception of the rear derailleur most parts still look nice and fresh here and I might even reuse the front derailleur since it has a generous 20+ teeth capacity.
The rear is a little worse off but still functional. I could try stripping and polishing it for use on another bike in the future.
A bit more experimenting with colours and painted pump + fenders:
With the exception of the rear derailleur most parts still look nice and fresh here and I might even reuse the front derailleur since it has a generous 20+ teeth capacity.
The rear is a little worse off but still functional. I could try stripping and polishing it for use on another bike in the future.
A bit more experimenting with colours and painted pump + fenders:
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Useful pictures. The color-matched fenders seem to bring the whole thing together, and make the frame look less tall.
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This one is bicycle class personified:
Polished fenders are always beautiful, but when you're doing a complete paint job, it'd seem silly not to spring for full color-matching.
Incidentally, I'd suggest a standoff over-the-fender style stay in the rear, and one that's flush with the fender in front. It'd be mismatched, but the standoff will act as a bumper to protect the rear fender, while the tighter fit of the front one will prevent your feet from snagging it.
By the way, are those rims badged with a manufacturer's name? They look identical to the rims used on the Social Bicycles and JUMP share bikes.
-Kurt
Polished fenders are always beautiful, but when you're doing a complete paint job, it'd seem silly not to spring for full color-matching.
Incidentally, I'd suggest a standoff over-the-fender style stay in the rear, and one that's flush with the fender in front. It'd be mismatched, but the standoff will act as a bumper to protect the rear fender, while the tighter fit of the front one will prevent your feet from snagging it.
By the way, are those rims badged with a manufacturer's name? They look identical to the rims used on the Social Bicycles and JUMP share bikes.
-Kurt
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#32
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This one is bicycle class personified:
Polished fenders are always beautiful, but when you're doing a complete paint job, it'd seem silly not to spring for full color-matching.
Incidentally, I'd suggest a standoff over-the-fender style stay in the rear, and one that's flush with the fender in front. It'd be mismatched, but the standoff will act as a bumper to protect the rear fender, while the tighter fit of the front one will prevent your feet from snagging it.
By the way, are those rims badged with a manufacturer's name? They look identical to the rims used on the Social Bicycles and JUMP share bikes.
Polished fenders are always beautiful, but when you're doing a complete paint job, it'd seem silly not to spring for full color-matching.
Incidentally, I'd suggest a standoff over-the-fender style stay in the rear, and one that's flush with the fender in front. It'd be mismatched, but the standoff will act as a bumper to protect the rear fender, while the tighter fit of the front one will prevent your feet from snagging it.
By the way, are those rims badged with a manufacturer's name? They look identical to the rims used on the Social Bicycles and JUMP share bikes.
Which is a pretty cool look IMHO. I do wonder how to roll the cable into the edge once it has been painted without damaging the paint.
What do you mean with the standoffs?
The original rims are Mavic rims. Are those the ones you mean? Or do you mean the set with the blue hubs?
Last edited by JaccoW; 10-31-20 at 11:35 AM.
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#33
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Alright! The final part of the strip down done for now; the bottom bracket.
And not sure who did this, but pretty sure they didn't use any grease...
In the end it required me hitting the big wrench repeatedly with a hammer, penetrating oil for a couple of days and me actually standing on the wrench (!) with my full weight to get it moving even a little bit. Which was a nice workout for lunch.
Turns out the body itself was rusted and flaking from all the rust though the sealed bearings were still okay. My guess is most of the water came in through the bottom bottle cage holes since there weren't any screws in there when I got it. And we all know how much spray that part gets when riding in the rain.
I think it means I will have to get myself a bottom bracket thread tap at some point though.
And not sure who did this, but pretty sure they didn't use any grease...
In the end it required me hitting the big wrench repeatedly with a hammer, penetrating oil for a couple of days and me actually standing on the wrench (!) with my full weight to get it moving even a little bit. Which was a nice workout for lunch.
Turns out the body itself was rusted and flaking from all the rust though the sealed bearings were still okay. My guess is most of the water came in through the bottom bottle cage holes since there weren't any screws in there when I got it. And we all know how much spray that part gets when riding in the rain.
I think it means I will have to get myself a bottom bracket thread tap at some point though.
Last edited by JaccoW; 11-02-20 at 08:34 AM.
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LimeBikes have a plastic "inner fender" with a U channel on each side for wires. With enough clearance to the tire, you could run such a combo.
Alternately, you can tape the wires to the bottom of the fender. I've had great success doing this with Gorilla tape.
-Kurt
#35
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There are some rando bikes from BITD with painted fenders. It's a beautiful combo, but only works when you're jumping into a full paint job (or contrasting the frame).
LimeBikes have a plastic "inner fender" with a U channel on each side for wires. With enough clearance to the tire, you could run such a combo.
Alternately, you can tape the wires to the bottom of the fender. I've had great success doing this with Gorilla tape.
LimeBikes have a plastic "inner fender" with a U channel on each side for wires. With enough clearance to the tire, you could run such a combo.
Alternately, you can tape the wires to the bottom of the fender. I've had great success doing this with Gorilla tape.
I plan on using the Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fenders like I did on the SilverAce, which have a rolled edge that perfectly fits a SON coaxial cable. Just put it in and slightly crimp it to make it tight. The inner fender is a pretty nice idea too.
I meant the set with the blue hubs. They look identical to the SoBi rims.
EDIT: The label says it's a Mach1 20- ETRTO 622 x 19C with an ERD of 601mm. Made in France
Last edited by JaccoW; 11-04-20 at 08:26 AM.
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So not a whole lot of work being done on this bike just yet (a.k.a. no dents being removed) but I did approach Unlimited Colors for a replica in new colors of the decals. They replied me with their requirements and a price (~ €140 for 14 stickers) I will probably use this weekend to shoot some pictures.
In the meantime I have been reading up on handlebars and stems. The flared drop bars from the BeachRacer do feel very comfortable and I think I do want to use these or something very similar. Maybe not as wide as a Crust Towel Rack but certainly something wider and more flared than what is on my Batavus.
The Koga model is sold under a number of different names like the Dajia Cycleworks Far Bar, Genetic Digest, Satori Boondocks or the Origin8 Gary Sweep OS.
Most 25.4mm/26mm bars don't offer the flat drops or lack the flare.
EDIT:
31.8 clamp quill stems are
* Rivendell - Nitto Fillet FacePlater quill stem - $120
* Velo Orange quill stem with removable face plate - $80
* Crust - Nitto UI 30 degrees quill stem - $90
* Crust - Nitto UI 15 degrees - $90
* Nitto UI-12 - $63
* Factory 5 Titan stem - $99
* Analog Cycles Discord Fingerling - $195
* Discord Components w(Right) Stem - $195
Of these options I think I like the Factory5 the best but let's see where the build takes me.
While over at another website who shall not belinked named here I asked about options for 31.8 threaded stems or flared handlebars in smaller clamp sizes (that do not use a standard quill to Ahead stem adapter somebody mentioned the Forkmods Innicycle (more information here - Bikepacking.com) which is a much more integrated solution to adapt a threaded fork to 1 1/8" headset. Reports of users mention it to be stiffer than adapters which can be an issue with wider bars. And personally I think it looks pretty good:
Image by ridethecliche
Anyway, I thought I would show the bike with this handlebar and what the brake levers would look like:
(This is by no means the final setup. I won't be able to make adjustments until the saddle and cranks are sorted.)
In the meantime I have been reading up on handlebars and stems. The flared drop bars from the BeachRacer do feel very comfortable and I think I do want to use these or something very similar. Maybe not as wide as a Crust Towel Rack but certainly something wider and more flared than what is on my Batavus.
The Koga model is sold under a number of different names like the Dajia Cycleworks Far Bar, Genetic Digest, Satori Boondocks or the Origin8 Gary Sweep OS.
Most 25.4mm/26mm bars don't offer the flat drops or lack the flare.
EDIT:
31.8 clamp quill stems are
* Rivendell - Nitto Fillet FacePlater quill stem - $120
* Velo Orange quill stem with removable face plate - $80
* Crust - Nitto UI 30 degrees quill stem - $90
* Crust - Nitto UI 15 degrees - $90
* Nitto UI-12 - $63
* Factory 5 Titan stem - $99
* Analog Cycles Discord Fingerling - $195
* Discord Components w(Right) Stem - $195
Of these options I think I like the Factory5 the best but let's see where the build takes me.
While over at another website who shall not be
Image by ridethecliche
Anyway, I thought I would show the bike with this handlebar and what the brake levers would look like:
(This is by no means the final setup. I won't be able to make adjustments until the saddle and cranks are sorted.)
Last edited by JaccoW; 11-04-20 at 08:20 PM.
#37
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Carefully removed the rubber cable sleeves for the internal cable routing today. Looks like some more derusting is in order.
I know it isn't that terrible from a structural perspective but some chemical remover and a cover of boiled linseed on the inside ought to make it a bit more resistant to rain in the future.
It is good to see they built these with soldered on reinforcements back then.
I know it isn't that terrible from a structural perspective but some chemical remover and a cover of boiled linseed on the inside ought to make it a bit more resistant to rain in the future.
It is good to see they built these with soldered on reinforcements back then.
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#38
So not a whole lot of work being done on this bike just yet (a.k.a. no dents being removed) but I did approach Unlimited Colors for a replica in new colors of the decals. They replied me with their requirements and a price (~ €140 for 14 stickers) I will probably use this weekend to shoot some pictures.
In the meantime I have been reading up on handlebars and stems. The flared drop bars from the BeachRacer do feel very comfortable and I think I do want to use these or something very similar. Maybe not as wide as a Crust Towel Rack but certainly something wider and more flared than what is on my Batavus.
The Koga model is sold under a number of different names like the Dajia Cycleworks Far Bar, Genetic Digest, Satori Boondocks or the Origin8 Gary Sweep OS.
Most 25.4mm/26mm bars don't offer the flat drops or lack the flare.
EDIT:
31.8 clamp quill stems are
* Rivendell - Nitto Fillet FacePlater quill stem - $120
* Velo Orange quill stem with removable face plate - $80
* Crust - Nitto UI 30 degrees quill stem - $90
* Crust - Nitto UI 15 degrees - $90
* Nitto UI-12 - $63
* Factory 5 Titan stem - $99
* Analog Cycles Discord Fingerling - $195
* Discord Components w(Right) Stem - $195
Anyway, I thought I would show the bike with this handlebar and what the brake levers would look like:
(This is by no means the final setup. I won't be able to make adjustments until the saddle and cranks are sorted.)
In the meantime I have been reading up on handlebars and stems. The flared drop bars from the BeachRacer do feel very comfortable and I think I do want to use these or something very similar. Maybe not as wide as a Crust Towel Rack but certainly something wider and more flared than what is on my Batavus.
The Koga model is sold under a number of different names like the Dajia Cycleworks Far Bar, Genetic Digest, Satori Boondocks or the Origin8 Gary Sweep OS.
Most 25.4mm/26mm bars don't offer the flat drops or lack the flare.
EDIT:
31.8 clamp quill stems are
* Rivendell - Nitto Fillet FacePlater quill stem - $120
* Velo Orange quill stem with removable face plate - $80
* Crust - Nitto UI 30 degrees quill stem - $90
* Crust - Nitto UI 15 degrees - $90
* Nitto UI-12 - $63
* Factory 5 Titan stem - $99
* Analog Cycles Discord Fingerling - $195
* Discord Components w(Right) Stem - $195
Anyway, I thought I would show the bike with this handlebar and what the brake levers would look like:
(This is by no means the final setup. I won't be able to make adjustments until the saddle and cranks are sorted.)
- Nitto NTC-DX Technomic (pearlized version of the regular Technomic, with 190mm and 225mm overall heights in 26.0)
- Soma Portola bars (similar design to Nitto RM-3, with 53 and 56 widths), also 26.0
Working on a Pro Tour rain bike with this cockpit, will post a pic or two if you'd like
Last edited by ctak; 11-05-20 at 12:48 PM.
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#39
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A $120 combination I really like:
- Nitto NTC-DX Technomic (pearlized version of the regular Technomic, with 190mm and 225mm overall heights in 26.0)
- Soma Portola bars (similar design to Nitto RM-3, with 53 and 56 widths), also 26.0
Working on a Pro Tour rain bike with this cockpit, will post a pic or two if you'd like
- Nitto NTC-DX Technomic (pearlized version of the regular Technomic, with 190mm and 225mm overall heights in 26.0)
- Soma Portola bars (similar design to Nitto RM-3, with 53 and 56 widths), also 26.0
Working on a Pro Tour rain bike with this cockpit, will post a pic or two if you'd like
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I think you'll be needing to change your handle to @ TallDutchUltraromance ....
Last edited by non-fixie; 11-05-20 at 04:16 PM. Reason: removed unwanted mention
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#41
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#42
Here's a few pics, including one of a dirty derailleur after a 47-mile test ride in wet conditions. Still have adjustments to make, but it was nice to get on the road this evening. Btw, "backwards" Koolstop pads in the front work great and offset the difficulty of wheel removal thanks to narrow canti posts. It doesn't look like you'll have this problem...
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Those Retrofrictions sure look familiar.
I should say (to you and the OP, and everyone else) that after I scoured the Koga-Miyata catalogs from 1980 through 2000 and a few beyond, looking for any and all 66cm frames (and fastidiously recording them, including geometry specs where found), I saw many a Randonneur Extra, Traveler, etc with the front canti brake pads facing forward. No doubt they wanted to maximize the opening for tire removal and installation, as well as not having things be fiddly. And you know, if they work well, then more power to ya.
[ [MENTION=266503]JaccoW[/MENTION] , as an aside and thus not a thread hijack here, my recent re-interest into K-M again centers around their 66cm offerings, particularly pre-1994 (for road bikes due to shorter top tube length), but really to any of them (road, tour, rando) that are lugged in both frame and fork. [MENTION=506308]ctak[/MENTION] and I agree that finding ones for a very reasonable price is difficult, but perhaps due to my optimism-drive-by-ignorance here, I think that I'm simply not looking in the correct places. This, of course, is based on the wild assumption that apart from ebay or some other online marketplace with buyer/seller protection + shipping ability, that the bike could even make it halfway across the world. If you have any extra insight apart from what is researchable (like Marktplaats etc), I would be grateful!]
I should say (to you and the OP, and everyone else) that after I scoured the Koga-Miyata catalogs from 1980 through 2000 and a few beyond, looking for any and all 66cm frames (and fastidiously recording them, including geometry specs where found), I saw many a Randonneur Extra, Traveler, etc with the front canti brake pads facing forward. No doubt they wanted to maximize the opening for tire removal and installation, as well as not having things be fiddly. And you know, if they work well, then more power to ya.
[ [MENTION=266503]JaccoW[/MENTION] , as an aside and thus not a thread hijack here, my recent re-interest into K-M again centers around their 66cm offerings, particularly pre-1994 (for road bikes due to shorter top tube length), but really to any of them (road, tour, rando) that are lugged in both frame and fork. [MENTION=506308]ctak[/MENTION] and I agree that finding ones for a very reasonable price is difficult, but perhaps due to my optimism-drive-by-ignorance here, I think that I'm simply not looking in the correct places. This, of course, is based on the wild assumption that apart from ebay or some other online marketplace with buyer/seller protection + shipping ability, that the bike could even make it halfway across the world. If you have any extra insight apart from what is researchable (like Marktplaats etc), I would be grateful!]
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Those Retrofrictions sure look familiar.
I should say (to you and the OP, and everyone else) that after I scoured the Koga-Miyata catalogs from 1980 through 2000 and a few beyond, looking for any and all 66cm frames (and fastidiously recording them, including geometry specs where found), I saw many a Randonneur Extra, Traveler, etc with the front canti brake pads facing forward. No doubt they wanted to maximize the opening for tire removal and installation, as well as not having things be fiddly. And you know, if they work well, then more power to ya.
[ [MENTION=266503]JaccoW[/MENTION] , as an aside and thus not a thread hijack here, my recent re-interest into K-M again centers around their 66cm offerings, particularly pre-1994 (for road bikes due to shorter top tube length), but really to any of them (road, tour, rando) that are lugged in both frame and fork. [MENTION=506308]ctak[/MENTION] and I agree that finding ones for a very reasonable price is difficult, but perhaps due to my optimism-drive-by-ignorance here, I think that I'm simply not looking in the correct places. This, of course, is based on the wild assumption that apart from ebay or some other online marketplace with buyer/seller protection + shipping ability, that the bike could even make it halfway across the world. If you have any extra insight apart from what is researchable (like Marktplaats etc), I would be grateful!]
I should say (to you and the OP, and everyone else) that after I scoured the Koga-Miyata catalogs from 1980 through 2000 and a few beyond, looking for any and all 66cm frames (and fastidiously recording them, including geometry specs where found), I saw many a Randonneur Extra, Traveler, etc with the front canti brake pads facing forward. No doubt they wanted to maximize the opening for tire removal and installation, as well as not having things be fiddly. And you know, if they work well, then more power to ya.
[ [MENTION=266503]JaccoW[/MENTION] , as an aside and thus not a thread hijack here, my recent re-interest into K-M again centers around their 66cm offerings, particularly pre-1994 (for road bikes due to shorter top tube length), but really to any of them (road, tour, rando) that are lugged in both frame and fork. [MENTION=506308]ctak[/MENTION] and I agree that finding ones for a very reasonable price is difficult, but perhaps due to my optimism-drive-by-ignorance here, I think that I'm simply not looking in the correct places. This, of course, is based on the wild assumption that apart from ebay or some other online marketplace with buyer/seller protection + shipping ability, that the bike could even make it halfway across the world. If you have any extra insight apart from what is researchable (like Marktplaats etc), I would be grateful!]
For now I believe Marktplaats is your best bet but I can perhaps help you with the right filters;
- All Road racing bikes taller than 65cm
- All gentlemans bikes taller than 65cm
- All Sports and Touring bikes taller than 65cm
- 1988 Koga-Miyata RoadWinner 66cm - FM-2 triple-butted frame & chromed HM-2 (?) fork - €250
- Raleigh Competition 66cm - Reynolds 531 frame + fork - €225
- 1989 Koga-Miyata RoadRunner 65cm - Triple-butted FM-2 frame and HM-2 fork - €180. Originally this was the lightest of the touring frames, more of a hybrid/light touring bike, in line with what we would call a randonneur bike nowadays. With the exception of the handlebars it looks pretty original.
- Koga-Miyata Randonneur 1985 - Unknown size - €550
Last edited by JaccoW; 11-06-20 at 08:16 AM.
#45
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Here's a few pics, including one of a dirty derailleur after a 47-mile test ride in wet conditions. Still have adjustments to make, but it was nice to get on the road this evening. Btw, "backwards" Koolstop pads in the front work great and offset the difficulty of wheel removal thanks to narrow canti posts. It doesn't look like you'll have this problem...
You can barely tell (from a visual point of view) that those are flared bars. But looking at those extra grips on the drops it's probably much more comforable to ride in the drops this way. Thanks for the pictures, I will definitely keep this combo in mind.
#46
Test rides in the rain are the best rides. Though it can be a bit of a bummer to see your freshly cleaned bike all dirty again.
You can barely tell (from a visual point of view) that those are flared bars. But looking at those extra grips on the drops it's probably much more comforable to ride in the drops this way. Thanks for the pictures, I will definitely keep this combo in mind.
You can barely tell (from a visual point of view) that those are flared bars. But looking at those extra grips on the drops it's probably much more comforable to ride in the drops this way. Thanks for the pictures, I will definitely keep this combo in mind.
My route featured several steep and sloppy slopes, forcing dismount in areas with wet clay (not ideal conditions for my choicest Schwalbe rubber). Cleaning was fun
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,468
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
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I have started doing something similar here by indexing all touring bikes. I haven't noticed the reversed brake pads, interesting observation.
For now I believe Marktplaats is your best bet but I can perhaps help you with the right filters;
For now I believe Marktplaats is your best bet but I can perhaps help you with the right filters;
- All Road racing bikes taller than 65cm
- All gentlemans bikes taller than 65cm
- All Sports and Touring bikes taller than 65cm
- 1988 Koga-Miyata RoadWinner 66cm - FM-2 triple-butted frame & chromed HM-2 (?) fork - €250
- Raleigh Competition 66cm - Reynolds 531 frame + fork - €225
- 1989 Koga-Miyata RoadRunner 65cm - Triple-butted FM-2 frame and HM-2 fork - €180. Originally this was the lightest of the touring frames, more of a hybrid/light touring bike, in line with what we would call a randonneur bike nowadays. With the exception of the handlebars it looks pretty original.
- Koga-Miyata Randonneur 1985 - Unknown size - €550
From my research and complete downloading of the catalogs from 1984 (first year of a 66cm offering in any model) to 2010 (more or less the last year they offered a 66cm model), 1986 was a high-water mark, with 1994 having more 66cm models than most.
I have attached, below, two pages of my recordings. Models, size (all 66cm), general component group, tubing (assume lugged unless stated otherwise), and any notes regarding canti brake equipping, number of bottle cages, or geometry (where listed). I hope this helps!
#48
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,468
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
Liked 2,107 Times
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1,021 Posts
BF's server/host/whatever had a glitch, so I'm uploading the second page of findings here.
Let me know if it would be more helpful to type everything out (in a spreadsheet or similar)!
Let me know if it would be more helpful to type everything out (in a spreadsheet or similar)!
#49
Overdoing projects
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,443
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
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Thank you so much for the tips/advice! I managed to find the first two road/race bikes, but completely missed the last two! Ahhh, so satisfying to see a properly tall, nice production road/touring bike instead of the lower-end production models we were offered largely. (I am not completely ungrateful, because we at least got some, though they sold in very small numbers naturally. Custom builders helped out a lot.)
From my research and complete downloading of the catalogs from 1984 (first year of a 66cm offering in any model) to 2010 (more or less the last year they offered a 66cm model), 1986 was a high-water mark, with 1994 having more 66cm models than most.
I have attached, below, two pages of my recordings. Models, size (all 66cm), general component group, tubing (assume lugged unless stated otherwise), and any notes regarding canti brake equipping, number of bottle cages, or geometry (where listed). I hope this helps!
From my research and complete downloading of the catalogs from 1984 (first year of a 66cm offering in any model) to 2010 (more or less the last year they offered a 66cm model), 1986 was a high-water mark, with 1994 having more 66cm models than most.
I have attached, below, two pages of my recordings. Models, size (all 66cm), general component group, tubing (assume lugged unless stated otherwise), and any notes regarding canti brake equipping, number of bottle cages, or geometry (where listed). I hope this helps!
I spoke to someone today on the phone who has a large number of brochures and I plan to scan and digitize them so we all have more information than what is available now. Perhaps it will uncover a bit more data that you don't know yet.
#50
Overdoing projects
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,443
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
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711 Posts
Yeah, Portola bars are slightly more compact (112mm drop, 65mm reach, 30 degree flare) than the classic Nitto Dirt Drop design of the RM3 (120mm drop, 65mm reach, 38 degree flare).
My route featured several steep and sloppy slopes, forcing dismount in areas with wet clay (not ideal conditions for my choicest Schwalbe rubber). Cleaning was fun
My route featured several steep and sloppy slopes, forcing dismount in areas with wet clay (not ideal conditions for my choicest Schwalbe rubber). Cleaning was fun
Would the G-One Allround fit instead of the G-One Speed?