Dahon rejuvenation
#27
When I did the conversion I was not aware of wide 1Xs, but I'm still glad I went 2X, only because it's 20" wheels and the rear derailleur would have been scraping the ground, and I'd need an expensive one to handle over 34T. Newer 1X derailleurs can do better on both. And, the freehub is only a 7 so would have required changing that. It also afforded me the opportunity to greatly upgrade the crank from a cheap swaged one with heavy steel ring, to a hollowtech II style with all the benefits of that. 2X also gives me better chainlines when on the low ring for lows and the high ring for highs, most important for when pulling hard in a low, doesn't wear or stress the chain as bad.
My range is now 21-85 gear inches, I need that 21 for the steepest hills here, if I am not up to climbing it all while standing, and a very experienced tourer online with a bike friday needed to go 15 for the steepest hills he encountered (and he runs 3X, but I think bought before 1X was a thing. But last I looked, BF does not go megarange 1X yet). 85 allows pedaling down a very mild grade, I don't need higher than that.
My range is now 21-85 gear inches, I need that 21 for the steepest hills here, if I am not up to climbing it all while standing, and a very experienced tourer online with a bike friday needed to go 15 for the steepest hills he encountered (and he runs 3X, but I think bought before 1X was a thing. But last I looked, BF does not go megarange 1X yet). 85 allows pedaling down a very mild grade, I don't need higher than that.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-24-24 at 11:11 PM.
#28
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Before the decision to convert from 8spd to 11spd, I got an SRAM trigger shifter to replace the original grip shift. The shifter barrel adjustment screw had to be constantly turned to maintain tension & the grip was starting to fall apart. The conversation was completed and a test ride done today to get used to trigger shifting & tweaking the adjustments. The only downside is the right handgrip is kinda short.
Awaiting the Litepro components and since I’m going to strip the frame to bare bones, I plan to have the frame sandblasted & powder coated. There’s a metric century ride coming up next month and I don’t want to rush the upgrade so, the frame tear down, frame prep & new components installed after the ride.
On the debate over having 1x vs 2x, I’m in favor of 1x simplicity. I have a fixie, a single speed folder & a 1x8 folder. I live on the side of a volcano (Punchbowl on The island of Oahu) so, the motor has to be my priority. The change to 11spd will give me a couple of more usable middle gears but probably 2 gears (32 & 36) that I’ll probably never use. I don’t think I’ve ever used the 32 on my current 8spd cassette. Maybe a cassette configuration change for later?
Awaiting the Litepro components and since I’m going to strip the frame to bare bones, I plan to have the frame sandblasted & powder coated. There’s a metric century ride coming up next month and I don’t want to rush the upgrade so, the frame tear down, frame prep & new components installed after the ride.
On the debate over having 1x vs 2x, I’m in favor of 1x simplicity. I have a fixie, a single speed folder & a 1x8 folder. I live on the side of a volcano (Punchbowl on The island of Oahu) so, the motor has to be my priority. The change to 11spd will give me a couple of more usable middle gears but probably 2 gears (32 & 36) that I’ll probably never use. I don’t think I’ve ever used the 32 on my current 8spd cassette. Maybe a cassette configuration change for later?
#29
Before the decision to convert from 8spd to 11spd, I got an SRAM trigger shifter to replace the original grip shift. The shifter barrel adjustment screw had to be constantly turned to maintain tension & the grip was starting to fall apart. The conversation was completed and a test ride done today to get used to trigger shifting & tweaking the adjustments. The only downside is the right handgrip is kinda short.
Awaiting the Litepro components and since I’m going to strip the frame to bare bones, I plan to have the frame sandblasted & powder coated. There’s a metric century ride coming up next month and I don’t want to rush the upgrade so, the frame tear down, frame prep & new components installed after the ride.
On the debate over having 1x vs 2x, I’m in favor of 1x simplicity. I have a fixie, a single speed folder & a 1x8 folder. I live on the side of a volcano (Punchbowl on The island of Oahu) so, the motor has to be my priority. The change to 11spd will give me a couple of more usable middle gears but probably 2 gears (32 & 36) that I’ll probably never use. I don’t think I’ve ever used the 32 on my current 8spd cassette. Maybe a cassette configuration change for later?
Awaiting the Litepro components and since I’m going to strip the frame to bare bones, I plan to have the frame sandblasted & powder coated. There’s a metric century ride coming up next month and I don’t want to rush the upgrade so, the frame tear down, frame prep & new components installed after the ride.
On the debate over having 1x vs 2x, I’m in favor of 1x simplicity. I have a fixie, a single speed folder & a 1x8 folder. I live on the side of a volcano (Punchbowl on The island of Oahu) so, the motor has to be my priority. The change to 11spd will give me a couple of more usable middle gears but probably 2 gears (32 & 36) that I’ll probably never use. I don’t think I’ve ever used the 32 on my current 8spd cassette. Maybe a cassette configuration change for later?
1X is great, no duplicate gears. In the long run I may go that direction. But for now, I'm really happy with the 2X setup, except for the excessively stiff FD spring, and because of differences in linkage, a Shimano FD won't fit the FD adaptor. Chain tests also indicate that 8 speed chains are now junk (which were supposed to be more durable than higher speeds because wider), because no one will pay a premium price for one, so the makers put their best technology on 10/11/12 speed chains, and cheaper steel and no surface treatments on 8s.
Cat-rigged (single-sail) sailboats are boring to me, I also want a jib.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 04-01-24 at 07:53 PM.
#30
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
#31
#32
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
#33
Yes I had to look up "Aztec sports team". I already knew the car. The above pic is a Pontiac Aztek, an infamous marketing flop due to styling, though perfectly functional features. They had a bit of a cult following in the wake of Walter White driving one in Breaking Bad, which itself was a joke because it was considered such an unfashionable car.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-25-24 at 10:40 PM.
#34
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Litepro stuff
The 1st of my Litepro parts from China arrived today. I was apprehensive about the shipping process, even if it was for free. Based on the arrival time & the condition upon arrival, has to be two thumbs up. This order was placed on 16 March and arrived 11 working days later. I know that there’s mention of a US warehouse but all three of my shipments are originating from China (2 smaller shipments from Dongguan, main shipment from Shanghai). I’m anticipating the main shipment tomorrow.
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#35
Danger Will Robinson!
I just saw this, missed it before:
Steel sandblasts usually OK unless very thin. Aluminum can be a problem if very thin, warping, and those frame tubes might be. Better choice, if possible, is blasting with crushed walnut shells, if I recall, they use that media when the part is more delicate, but I don't know if it will strip paint. In my teens I was restoring a discarded Motobecane steel frame, and I was using a pretty good sandblaster, and it was taking forever, that baked on enamel was tough. Another option is to coat the frame with paint stripper (and make sure it's aluminum safe, like NO sodium hydroxide), and while that can be a mess to then clean off enough to paint, you might instead then just send it out for a light blasting, the stripper may allow that. Also check that the powdercoat melt temperature is aluminum safe; it won't melt the aluminum but could still effect it if hot enough; The majority of the bike industry went to 7005 aluminum from 6061-T6, because the latter requires a post-weld heat-treat, both expense and warpage possible, whereas 7005 needs no post-weld heat-treat.
Awaiting the Litepro components and since I’m going to strip the frame to bare bones, I plan to have the frame sandblasted & powder coated.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 04-01-24 at 08:09 PM.
#36
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Litepro wheels assembled & components have arrived
Xmas in April! Main shipment of Litepro components arrived today! 15 working days from order date for arrival from China, well packed, order fulfilled correctly and no damages found. Litepro proves to be a good supplier.
Since the frame is going to be stripped & repainted, the frame components with be stored until assembly occurring next month. The wheels were assembled though.
Attached the SRAM 11-26 cassette & 160mm rotor. The quick releases require a 5mm Allen key. Had to add 30mm valve extenders Since this is my 1st venture with disc brakes, attached Tektro calipers to carbon fork and test mounted the front wheel to check if an adapter is needed.
Last edited by Need41speed; 04-05-24 at 01:51 AM.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 781
Bikes: Dahon Jetstream p8 (sold), customized Dahon Helios x10, customzed Dahon Smooth Hound x11,customized Dahon Hammerhead 8.0 d7, Planet X Free Ranger (mullet setup 1x11), Planet X Giovanissimi 20 (1x9), Frog 52 (1x9) and Frog 48 1s
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What tube did you go for? I found that bontrager seemed to be the only one supplying 20" tybe with 48mm presta valves....
And yes, I used to run 2x9 (39/53 x 11-25) because a long lime ago, it was easy and cheap and then went to 1x9 (55x11-34) because cheap but still missing something and final a moved to 1x10 and 1x11 as my race bike (not in picture) because prices have come down as people move to 12s and electronic.
And yes, I used to run 2x9 (39/53 x 11-25) because a long lime ago, it was easy and cheap and then went to 1x9 (55x11-34) because cheap but still missing something and final a moved to 1x10 and 1x11 as my race bike (not in picture) because prices have come down as people move to 12s and electronic.
#40
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
I use Continental compact 20 slim tubes w/ 42mm valve stems. I prefer that tube for both this project & my other folder. I used 30mm valve extensions also fm Continental to provide access with a 40mm rim depth.
#41
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
LitePro replacement upgrades
Started pairing up carbon fiber LitePro components.
The forward bent folding stem is a few cm longer than the OEM telescoping linear stem. Also selected the folding action to the right (outside the bike fold), opposite the current fold direction. The carbon saddle will be interesting! The current seat post features an internal “seat pump”. The carbon replacements should drastically reduce weight and help dampen road vibrations.
The forward bent folding stem is a few cm longer than the OEM telescoping linear stem. Also selected the folding action to the right (outside the bike fold), opposite the current fold direction. The carbon saddle will be interesting! The current seat post features an internal “seat pump”. The carbon replacements should drastically reduce weight and help dampen road vibrations.
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#42
Senior Member
Having done 1x for so long on at least 6 folders and toured with enough of them, I'd say that I am veering back to 2x (even a cheap 2x9 ) as the best, no ground clearance issues for RD, no extreme chain angle, able to tacking almost anything with a loaded bike.
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#43
+1. The gearing numbers don't lie. Slick double-pivot derailleurs like the Zee are greatly improving ground clearance for 1X on small wheels. But I like that, on my 2X, when I am climbing in low, or hammering in high, the chainline is better. Most chain wear and breakage happens under high load, and more extreme chainline angles.
#44
Junior Member
Started pairing up carbon fiber LitePro components.
The forward bent folding stem is a few cm longer than the OEM telescoping linear stem. Also selected the folding action to the right (outside the bike fold), opposite the current fold direction. The carbon saddle will be interesting! The current seat post features an internal “seat pump”. The carbon replacements should drastically reduce weight and help dampen road vibrations.
The forward bent folding stem is a few cm longer than the OEM telescoping linear stem. Also selected the folding action to the right (outside the bike fold), opposite the current fold direction. The carbon saddle will be interesting! The current seat post features an internal “seat pump”. The carbon replacements should drastically reduce weight and help dampen road vibrations.
#45
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
The last of the SRAM 11 speed components arrived (shifter). I’ve got different cassettes for this project. The 11-26T nicknamed “Alawai” after a straight shot 1.3 mi leg bordering Waikiki & the 11-36T called “Tantalus” which is a torturous hill climb overlooking Honolulu. Rival medium cage derailleur and Apex shifter mated to 1170 cassettes & chain
Cockpit is taking shape with LitePro parts. Awaiting Deda extensions & colored fastener bling to dress up the controls. Carbon handlebars & curved folding stem will lighten & stretch body position.
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#46
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Had issues with the 30mm valve extensions. When assembled, the bore of the extension tube restricted movement of the presta core, preventing air to flow into the tube. P lan B is to Google a suitable tube with a presta stem greater than 50-55mm. There were no 406 butyl tubes with longer stems but found these TPU tubes (1st exposure to TPU). So, a fix for a workable stem, lighter weight & more space in my flat kit, a win win win!
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
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Posts: 1,654
Bikes: Several, all affordably priced, none exalted cult artifacts
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Had issues with the 30mm valve extensions. When assembled, the bore of the extension tube restricted movement of the presta core, preventing air to flow into the tube. P lan B is to Google a suitable tube with a presta stem greater than 50-55mm. There were no 406 butyl tubes with longer stems but found these TPU tubes (1st exposure to TPU). So, a fix for a workable stem, lighter weight & more space in my flat kit, a win win win!
#48
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Had to google “eschew”! Thanks for expanding my vocabulary 😜. I favor hi profile because of their strength in form & they just look cool. It was because of this valve length problem that lead me to discover TPU tubes! This may lead to exclusion of tire liners?
#50
BeastMaster
Thread Starter
Dismantling the V clamp hinge
The bike has been stripped of all components and prepping for powder coating. Encountered a problem with disassembling the hinge. There is a long spindle (ventral view of hinge) in this port that I’m unsure of how to remove. There are no visible surfaces for an Allen key or threads. Anyone ever tackled this problem?
The shaft is shown in the 2nd pic, on the left side.
The shaft is shown in the 2nd pic, on the left side.
Last edited by Need41speed; 05-09-24 at 04:27 PM. Reason: Add picture