Your Most Recent Cycling-related Repair
#26
Senior Member
I'll probably have to balance the wheel after this....
Update: Rode it several rides- maybe 200 miles. The stitching held well,
but there's a slight bump, noticeable mainly on very smooth pavement.
Just pulled it off; satisfied w/ the experiment, but moving on to a new tire..
Update: Rode it several rides- maybe 200 miles. The stitching held well,
but there's a slight bump, noticeable mainly on very smooth pavement.
Just pulled it off; satisfied w/ the experiment, but moving on to a new tire..
Last edited by woodcraft; 09-08-17 at 12:35 AM.
Likes For woodcraft:
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
I removed the ripped leather and foam covering from my Selle SMP Evolution saddle
Removing the Leather by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
So that it is just the plastic remaining
Leatherless Selle SMP Evolution Saddle by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
and it works fine. I did not like the shape of the Dynamic saddle that I bought to replace it.
i updated the Sidi-fied heels of my shoes and tried putting some liquid plastic on the cleats
S
idi-ed Heels and Shoe-goo-ed Cleats by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
But the stuff I bought was so hard that it made walking on flooring like ice skating so I tried some rubber pads instead using the carbon epoxy that I used to mend the toe of my left hand shoe.
Added Carbon and Rubber by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
The carbon is from a Carbonology repair kit as before. The rubber pads soon came off. I have some Chinese shoo goo on order.
I while back I put a spare rear light on one of my bikes.
I also changed the bottom bracket on my other bike but failed to prevent the creak coming from that area. I don't think it is the pedals or the chainrings (which do creak if those star shaped nuts get loose) so I am not sure what the cause of the creak could be.
I got cheap chain checker but it says my chain is not yet worn even though it is slipping.
I also raised my saddle even more than abnormal since I damaged my thigh in karate.
Removing the Leather by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
So that it is just the plastic remaining
Leatherless Selle SMP Evolution Saddle by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
and it works fine. I did not like the shape of the Dynamic saddle that I bought to replace it.
i updated the Sidi-fied heels of my shoes and tried putting some liquid plastic on the cleats
S
idi-ed Heels and Shoe-goo-ed Cleats by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
But the stuff I bought was so hard that it made walking on flooring like ice skating so I tried some rubber pads instead using the carbon epoxy that I used to mend the toe of my left hand shoe.
Added Carbon and Rubber by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
The carbon is from a Carbonology repair kit as before. The rubber pads soon came off. I have some Chinese shoo goo on order.
I while back I put a spare rear light on one of my bikes.
I also changed the bottom bracket on my other bike but failed to prevent the creak coming from that area. I don't think it is the pedals or the chainrings (which do creak if those star shaped nuts get loose) so I am not sure what the cause of the creak could be.
I got cheap chain checker but it says my chain is not yet worn even though it is slipping.
I also raised my saddle even more than abnormal since I damaged my thigh in karate.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
I got the dreaded "bottom bracket creaks". I googled these two checklists on other forums. The first on road bike review did not have what turned out to the the cure
Clicking and Creaking sound/noise checklist
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/...omment13782570
I CLEANED MY DROPOUTS!
The grit in the dropouts, combined with a not very tight, lightweight open cam quick release allowed micro movements of the rear wheel as I pedalled, resulting in carbon frame creak. Changing to a sturdy closed cam quick release reduced the noise. Wiping with a rag almost got rid of it. Cleaning with brake cleaner (and scratching the paint off the surface of the dérailleur hanger) got rid of the creak completely!
I have junked a carbon frame for this! Tell the world! Clean your dropouts!
My KMC missing link is going parallelogram and could be lethal so I have ordered one of those too. It comes in three days. I hope my chain does not break before then. Death.
I am bidding on a non-compact crank set since I am always in my highest gear and destroying freehubs partly as a result, I think. I want to be in third from top when cruising (leaving the top to for downhills and tailwinds) not in top gear all the time.
Clicking and Creaking sound/noise checklist
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/...omment13782570
I CLEANED MY DROPOUTS!
The grit in the dropouts, combined with a not very tight, lightweight open cam quick release allowed micro movements of the rear wheel as I pedalled, resulting in carbon frame creak. Changing to a sturdy closed cam quick release reduced the noise. Wiping with a rag almost got rid of it. Cleaning with brake cleaner (and scratching the paint off the surface of the dérailleur hanger) got rid of the creak completely!
I have junked a carbon frame for this! Tell the world! Clean your dropouts!
My KMC missing link is going parallelogram and could be lethal so I have ordered one of those too. It comes in three days. I hope my chain does not break before then. Death.
I am bidding on a non-compact crank set since I am always in my highest gear and destroying freehubs partly as a result, I think. I want to be in third from top when cruising (leaving the top to for downhills and tailwinds) not in top gear all the time.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 765
Bikes: Fitz randonneuse, Trek Superfly/AL, Tsunami SS, Bacchetta, HPV Speed Machine, Rans Screamer
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
My front derailleur cable slipped, must have neglected to torque it. I don't use it much, so never noticed. Also re dished the rear wheel.
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
drop bar grip discovery
I had my gear cables changed and the bar tape at the same time. I chose the cheapest, highest visibility tape and found the bar tape to be very thin and harsh on my hands. So, after trying some 100 yen shop prototypes,
Cheap Bar Tape Augmented with 100 yen Shop Bar Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I ordered some ordinary shopper/MTB handlebar grips from China for about 1.5USD in the same colour as my new bar tape.
Now with Yellow Bar Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I find that the only place I put my weight is on the hoods (where tape has little impact) and on or in the drops, where this new idea to use standard grips on the drops is highly recommended. It was tough getting them on though since they are for 22mm bars where as my bars are "oversized" but with some washing up liquid and effort they are on and ready for tomorrow morning's cycle.
"Drop Tube" handlebar grips in one of seven colours available here
https://goo.gl/enAXCQ
I think that most people who use their drops would be well advised to use some simple handlebar grips on their drops. I am sure why I did not think of this sooner.
Cheap Bar Tape Augmented with 100 yen Shop Bar Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I ordered some ordinary shopper/MTB handlebar grips from China for about 1.5USD in the same colour as my new bar tape.
Now with Yellow Bar Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I find that the only place I put my weight is on the hoods (where tape has little impact) and on or in the drops, where this new idea to use standard grips on the drops is highly recommended. It was tough getting them on though since they are for 22mm bars where as my bars are "oversized" but with some washing up liquid and effort they are on and ready for tomorrow morning's cycle.
"Drop Tube" handlebar grips in one of seven colours available here
https://goo.gl/enAXCQ
I think that most people who use their drops would be well advised to use some simple handlebar grips on their drops. I am sure why I did not think of this sooner.
Last edited by timtak; 09-04-17 at 06:14 AM.
#33
well hello there
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Point Loma, CA
Posts: 15,435
Bikes: Bill Holland (Road-Ti), Fuji Roubaix Pro (back-up), Bike Friday (folder), Co-Motion (tandem) & Trek 750 (hybrid)
Liked 343 Times
in
211 Posts
Yellow handlebar tape for daughter's bike, to make it look prettier.
__________________
.
.
Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
.
.
Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
#35
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Liked 2,435 Times
in
1,187 Posts
Replaced the battery in my speed/cadence sensor.
#37
Senior Member
Had the windshield replaced in my pickup after taking two rocks during trip to Blazing Saddle 75 in Granbury, TX.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: RVA
Posts: 514
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Synapse 6 Tiagra + 2016 Cannondale CAAD 12 Dura Ace
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had my gear cables changed and the bar tape at the same time. I chose the cheapest, highest visibility tape and found the bar tape to be very thin and harsh on my hands. So, after trying some 100 yen shop prototypes,
Cheap Bar Tape Augmented with 100 yen Shop Bar Grips[/URL] by
I ordered some ordinary shopper/MTB handlebar grips from China for about 1.5USD in the same colour as my new bar tape.
I find that the only place I put my weight is on the hoods (where tape has little impact) and on or in the drops, where this new idea to use standard grips on the drops is highly recommended. It was tough getting them on though since they are for 22mm bars where as my bars are "oversized" but with some washing up liquid and effort they are on and ready for tomorrow morning's cycle.
"Drop Tube" handlebar grips in one of seven colours available here
https://goo.gl/enAXCQ
I think that most people who use their drops would be well advised to use some simple handlebar grips on their drops. I am sure why I did not think of this sooner.
Cheap Bar Tape Augmented with 100 yen Shop Bar Grips[/URL] by
I ordered some ordinary shopper/MTB handlebar grips from China for about 1.5USD in the same colour as my new bar tape.
I find that the only place I put my weight is on the hoods (where tape has little impact) and on or in the drops, where this new idea to use standard grips on the drops is highly recommended. It was tough getting them on though since they are for 22mm bars where as my bars are "oversized" but with some washing up liquid and effort they are on and ready for tomorrow morning's cycle.
"Drop Tube" handlebar grips in one of seven colours available here
https://goo.gl/enAXCQ
I think that most people who use their drops would be well advised to use some simple handlebar grips on their drops. I am sure why I did not think of this sooner.
#39
Installed titanium bolts in the front suspension pivots of my folding bike. I also cleaned the chain on the same bike, and my wife's bike. I replaced the brake pads on my old Gios, and trued the wheels as close to perfect as I could get them (which was pretty close). The original Record brake/shifter levers were worn and scratched, I was able to find a set of NOS Record 9 speed carbon levers for a decent price, and installed them with an NOS Record 9 speed carbon rear derailleur. The bike shifts like new again.
This week I need to install a new carbon seat post and a new B17 Ti seat on my Birdy folder. My folder was originally a 1x8 with Sora components. I upgraded it to Dura-Ace 7800 on the front, and XTR 9000 on the rear, giving me a 2x11 setup with a 40t big gear in the back. I had to fabricate a bracket to hold the 7800 front derailleur, and then modify the shifter and derailleur lever length to give me the right travel. The cage interfered with the rear swing arm, so I had to grind part of it away.
This week I need to install a new carbon seat post and a new B17 Ti seat on my Birdy folder. My folder was originally a 1x8 with Sora components. I upgraded it to Dura-Ace 7800 on the front, and XTR 9000 on the rear, giving me a 2x11 setup with a 40t big gear in the back. I had to fabricate a bracket to hold the 7800 front derailleur, and then modify the shifter and derailleur lever length to give me the right travel. The cage interfered with the rear swing arm, so I had to grind part of it away.
Likes For Sangetsu:
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
15 - 30 a "Rock Crawler" "trial bike" (not time trial bike) stem flipped due to my purchase of a fairly "relaxed" bike in a smallish size. I can't find them any more.
These look good.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Cycl...8-3042ecdc7467
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Adju...1-acd201efa00b
Very enterprising. Way beyond my capabilities.
These look good.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Cycl...8-3042ecdc7467
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Adju...1-acd201efa00b
This week I need to install a new carbon seat post and a new B17 Ti seat on my Birdy folder. My folder was originally a 1x8 with Sora components. I upgraded it to Dura-Ace 7800 on the front, and XTR 9000 on the rear, giving me a 2x11 setup with a 40t big gear in the back. I had to fabricate a bracket to hold the 7800 front derailleur, and then modify the shifter and derailleur lever length to give me the right travel. The cage interfered with the rear swing arm, so I had to grind part of it away.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Central Io-way
Posts: 2,738
Bikes: LeMond Zurich, Giant Talon 29er
Liked 691 Times
in
504 Posts
Lol well I was going to have nothing to report but now I'm going to drop my quill stem an inch after seeing that pic, that's crazy slammed. I've been meaning to do it for awhile now that I've gotten better at tucking.
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
**********)???? PRESTO ULTEGRA **********?? **********? ??? ?? HONJO 540********************???? ********************************************************************************?? ??? ??? ********** ??? - 103,500?
#43
Senior Member
It's going to be removing some kind of some, glass, or nail from my tire/tube and patching the tube, one it stops raining.
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
I am about to do this too because my carbon fibre roadie is creaking again. I wonder if the chain will help. Just tightening and improving the rear quick release worked for a while.
And for the past two days we have had light rain during which time the creaking has ceased suggesting to me that it is a lubrication/tightening issue not a cracked frame.
One of the "drop tubes" (handlebar grips) on my drops burst apart. The 100 yen shop grips were more flexible but a bit shorter. I have ordered some more grips like the 100 yen shop grips but a bit longer (and partly in yellow) from alixexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pc-...311.0.0.xzNZih
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...311.0.0.xzNZih
New chain. Perhaps a new cassette.
And for the past two days we have had light rain during which time the creaking has ceased suggesting to me that it is a lubrication/tightening issue not a cracked frame.
One of the "drop tubes" (handlebar grips) on my drops burst apart. The 100 yen shop grips were more flexible but a bit shorter. I have ordered some more grips like the 100 yen shop grips but a bit longer (and partly in yellow) from alixexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pc-...311.0.0.xzNZih
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...311.0.0.xzNZih
New chain. Perhaps a new cassette.
#45
My front tubeless tire punctured during a century ride to NYC on Sunday. It repaired itself as I took a bite of an apple.
#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
I am still working on my handlebars.
My new yellow drop tubes (handlebar grips) split fell off on one side and before the aliexpress grips could arrive, I realised that I had a 45cm long closed cell foam tube, designed for padding chair legs and such for those that have toddlers (I guess). Unfortunately it is brown and the cells are not quite closed so it takes on a bit of water in the wet, but it goes right up into the ⊃ of my drops. This is comfort.
Bar Grip Evolution by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
Additionally, I have attached the grip that split and fell off to the top of my bars with cable ties.
I have paid lots of money for carbon fibre forks (and frame) only to ride around on a handlebar without much in the way of padding. Why is grip tape so thin?
My new yellow drop tubes (handlebar grips) split fell off on one side and before the aliexpress grips could arrive, I realised that I had a 45cm long closed cell foam tube, designed for padding chair legs and such for those that have toddlers (I guess). Unfortunately it is brown and the cells are not quite closed so it takes on a bit of water in the wet, but it goes right up into the ⊃ of my drops. This is comfort.
Bar Grip Evolution by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
Additionally, I have attached the grip that split and fell off to the top of my bars with cable ties.
I have paid lots of money for carbon fibre forks (and frame) only to ride around on a handlebar without much in the way of padding. Why is grip tape so thin?
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
The chain and chainwheel was warn, and I was always in the smallest 12T at the back, so I swapped to a 11-25T cassette, a new chain, and a non compact right hand side Ultegra 130 PCD BCD standard crank paired with my old 10 crank on the left. The only non-compatibility appears to be the plastic crank mounting bolt (which I have on order, but for the time being just tapped both sides with a mallet) and the colour. I have Ultegra silver bling on the right and 105 black on the left.
I would prefer 53 (or 54 of 58) 39 but I had a 42 to hand and 53 in 9 speed was cheap so 53-42t it is.
53-42T Ultegra Right Crank by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
105 Left Crank by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
And my bars are now wrapped up like a sofa. Old man?
Sofa Bars by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I am not sure why I did not pad my handlebars a decade ago.
I would prefer 53 (or 54 of 58) 39 but I had a 42 to hand and 53 in 9 speed was cheap so 53-42t it is.
53-42T Ultegra Right Crank by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
105 Left Crank by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
And my bars are now wrapped up like a sofa. Old man?
Sofa Bars by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I am not sure why I did not pad my handlebars a decade ago.
#48
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 25,052
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Liked 3,684 Times
in
2,080 Posts
On my own bike? Replacing the stripped axle key on my Sturmey-Archer hub.
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yamaguchi City, Japan
Posts: 1,109
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 SL 2007, Look KG386, R022 Re-framed Azzurri Primo, Felt Z5, Trek F7.3 FX
Liked 85 Times
in
73 Posts
I had a bike shop replace my front derailleur wire. There are two types of bike shop in Japan. Those that service shoppers and those that cater to road bikers. The former are very cheap, the latter very expensive. The gear wire (inner and outer) replacement was 15USD including wire. I want to go and give them a present.
The wire replacement required the removal of my bar tape and 'drop tube' (my name for road bike handlebar padding) which split when being pushed back on. I used some more Chinese bar grip covers from aliexpress at less than 1 USD again to replace it. I will get another two more grips for symmetry.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pc-...311.0.0.lriDr7
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I just don't know how I managed to cycle 10 years without padding my handlebars. I got the idea because my local road-bike-related bike shop charged me 16USD for some paper thin bar tape.
I still have not sourced some padding for the hoods. The yellow grips are a bit too smooth. The stripey red ones above are a bit too short (10.5cm - I need 13cm)
The wire replacement required the removal of my bar tape and 'drop tube' (my name for road bike handlebar padding) which split when being pushed back on. I used some more Chinese bar grip covers from aliexpress at less than 1 USD again to replace it. I will get another two more grips for symmetry.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pc-...311.0.0.lriDr7
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I just don't know how I managed to cycle 10 years without padding my handlebars. I got the idea because my local road-bike-related bike shop charged me 16USD for some paper thin bar tape.
I still have not sourced some padding for the hoods. The yellow grips are a bit too smooth. The stripey red ones above are a bit too short (10.5cm - I need 13cm)