Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
02-09-16, 07:46 PM
#4702
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The tape and saddle definitely add good color! I noticed the studded tires - nice! This is the first year I have used studded tires and am amazed at the control and grip. I've got the 26" x 2" Schwalbe Marathon's so they are not a deep snow tire, but I really was looking for something which would keep me upright on ice and for that they're great.
02-09-16, 08:01 PM
#4703
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Rust removal with oxalic acid
FYI - Found this thread on the BMX Museum site on how to remove rust from steel frames and thought I'd share for anyone just starting with a vintage restoration or conversion.
The first page of the thread has good description and basics. Long story short, oxalic acid can be used to remove rust from the steel tubes. OA will remove rust stains from chrome and will NOT attack paint nor most decals. Severely rusted chrome will clean up but will have pitting, so no OA doesn't do miracles.
Once the rust has been removed one still needs to protect the bare metal otherwise new rust will form. Frame Saver or similar for the inside of tubes. On the outside one can use clear lacquer or touch-up paint over paint chips which have gone down to bare metal.
The first page of the thread has good description and basics. Long story short, oxalic acid can be used to remove rust from the steel tubes. OA will remove rust stains from chrome and will NOT attack paint nor most decals. Severely rusted chrome will clean up but will have pitting, so no OA doesn't do miracles.
Once the rust has been removed one still needs to protect the bare metal otherwise new rust will form. Frame Saver or similar for the inside of tubes. On the outside one can use clear lacquer or touch-up paint over paint chips which have gone down to bare metal.
02-10-16, 12:04 PM
#4704
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My Mongoose IBOC Sport in a singlespeed / beachrace kind off configuration.
Schwalbe Big Apples on 30mm wide rims
Tektro RL520 levers that handle the V-Brakes
Inverted and shortened city bike bars
Surly Stainless 33T up front, 16 on the back. Homemade chain tensioner.
Schwalbe Big Apples on 30mm wide rims
Tektro RL520 levers that handle the V-Brakes
Inverted and shortened city bike bars
Surly Stainless 33T up front, 16 on the back. Homemade chain tensioner.
Last edited by pfonck; 02-10-16 at 12:12 PM.
02-13-16, 07:58 PM
#4705
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Took my bike out for a shakedown cruise this afternoon. It has an odd occasional chain skip when I really hammer it, which I need to figure out. I also need to relearn how to ride dropbars again...found myself grabbing around trying to find the brakes a couple of times.
It's a '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, a store brand for Pederson Sports. Originally dark purple, now powdercoated. Tange plain-gauge chromoly, Deore XT components except for an LX crank, Mavic rims, Ritchey headset and handlebar, Ultegra barends, Shimano 600 brake levers, Tektro CR720 brakes with dual-compound Koolstops, Panaracer Soar tires, and a Murphy Swallow saddle which isn't the ass-hatchet that it looks like, it was fairly comfortable.
Still need to replace the front brake housing and tape the left bar. There's an elbow adapter at the cable hanger that just isn't working out, and the housing isn't long enough to reach the hanger by itself.
It's a '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, a store brand for Pederson Sports. Originally dark purple, now powdercoated. Tange plain-gauge chromoly, Deore XT components except for an LX crank, Mavic rims, Ritchey headset and handlebar, Ultegra barends, Shimano 600 brake levers, Tektro CR720 brakes with dual-compound Koolstops, Panaracer Soar tires, and a Murphy Swallow saddle which isn't the ass-hatchet that it looks like, it was fairly comfortable.
Still need to replace the front brake housing and tape the left bar. There's an elbow adapter at the cable hanger that just isn't working out, and the housing isn't long enough to reach the hanger by itself.
Last edited by arex; 02-13-16 at 09:46 PM.
02-13-16, 08:02 PM
#4706
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Wow...sorry for the picture size.
02-13-16, 08:52 PM
#4707
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Nice build, and the powdercoat color is sharp!
02-13-16, 09:45 PM
#4708
Senior Member
thats pretty cool, it come with that fork?
02-13-16, 09:50 PM
#4709
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02-14-16, 06:46 AM
#4710
is just a real cool dude
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My first decent Mtb was a Mongoose IBOC (unsure what model) but came with a RS Judy XC fork and STX components i believe. Raced it for just a few times and cracked the frame. Then picked up my first expensive mtb which was a Giant XTC SE1. I think i paid 1200 and was last years model also. I would love to have one of these again in yellow. Must of been around 2000 or 2001.
02-14-16, 07:00 AM
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02-14-16, 07:11 AM
#4712
Thrifty Bill
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Skipping: If the chain and cassette are new, the first thing I check is the rear derailleur hanger. My eyeballs are not good enough to see it, unless it is way off. 75% of the time, IF the chain and cassette are new, its the hanger. The best part is if you have the DAG tool, straightening the hanger is free. If you don't, and you are going to wrench on bikes, I'd buy the tool. Its worth it.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
Last edited by wrk101; 02-14-16 at 07:15 AM.
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02-14-16, 07:57 AM
#4713
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That is a very useful post. I plan to put it to good use.
eom
eom
Skipping: If the chain and cassette are new, the first thing I check is the rear derailleur hanger. My eyeballs are not good enough to see it, unless it is way off. 75% of the time, IF the chain and cassette are new, its the hanger. The best part is if you have the DAG tool, straightening the hanger is free. If you don't, and you are going to wrench on bikes, I'd buy the tool. Its worth it.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
02-14-16, 08:39 AM
#4715
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Chain and chainrings are new, the cassette is not. However, I examined the cassette pretty closely after I cleaned it, and it looked okay. I think I have a new spare that I was reserving for another bike. I'll put it on today and go for another ride and see what happens.
The hanger is visually straight, and no reason to think it ever got bent. I've had the bike since it was new.
I think the rear indexing is fine, no tell-tale chain rattling of a misaligned derailleur.
And yes, it only happened in higher gears when I was really hammering on it. Nothing in the lower gears.
The hanger is visually straight, and no reason to think it ever got bent. I've had the bike since it was new.
I think the rear indexing is fine, no tell-tale chain rattling of a misaligned derailleur.
And yes, it only happened in higher gears when I was really hammering on it. Nothing in the lower gears.
Skipping: If the chain and cassette are new, the first thing I check is the rear derailleur hanger. My eyeballs are not good enough to see it, unless it is way off. 75% of the time, IF the chain and cassette are new, its the hanger. The best part is if you have the DAG tool, straightening the hanger is free. If you don't, and you are going to wrench on bikes, I'd buy the tool. Its worth it.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
It doesn't take much to bend a hanger. I buy a lot of neglected bikes, and a bent hanger is pretty common for me.
Those bar end shifters and that XT RD should index flawlessly.
Now if you have a used chain or cassette, you may need to change them. Chain wear is easy to measure (just use a ruler). Cassette wear to me is similar to bent derailleur hanger. If it is really bad, easy to spot. But if it is marginal, I can't tell just by looking at it. I keep enough spares around that I just swap it out, after checking the hanger first.
One thing I learned in the chemical industry is to try the FREE stuff first, prior to spending money. Even if the likelihood is relatively low, if I can easily check it at no cost, I do it. Even the 5% chance or even 1% chance stuff happens!
My typical test ride on a bike rebuild is to take it up a hill (one block from my shop) in high gear, and hammer it up the hill. Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
02-14-16, 10:02 AM
#4716
Sunshine
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My first decent Mtb was a Mongoose IBOC (unsure what model) but came with a RS Judy XC fork and STX components i believe. Raced it for just a few times and cracked the frame. Then picked up my first expensive mtb which was a Giant XTC SE1. I think i paid 1200 and was last years model also. I would love to have one of these again in yellow. Must of been around 2000 or 2001.
Was your Mongoose this frame?
Its a '94 and came with the components and fork you mentioned.
I just picked the frame up a couple weeks ago, its been in storage for 20+ years.
02-14-16, 11:00 AM
#4717
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Wow...that frame's perfect.
Somebody at the building I work at has an IBOC. Well-used, but looks solid and is eye-catching.
Somebody at the building I work at has an IBOC. Well-used, but looks solid and is eye-catching.
02-14-16, 11:11 AM
#4718
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02-14-16, 06:11 PM
#4719
Sunshine
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Taiwan built raleigh mixtes, a few very large Mongoose mtb rlframes from the 90s, and a few Schwinn Continental frames.
Really odd mix of brand new frames. I cant wait to build it up...probably next fall or winter at this point.
02-15-16, 03:16 AM
#4720
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By swapping the stem for a shorter one I got my reach where I wanted it when I added the drop bars. Top tubes were really long back then. For reference my stepson's 16.5" 1991 Trek 850 has a 56cm top tube and a 10cm stem. By swapping in an 8cm stem your reach would be like your road bike.
Now I need to find an On One Midge bar or Salsa Woodchipper. In the meantime, I will need to figure out which route I will take the shifter and brake for the drop bar... bar ends or brifters.
Here's the photo of the 1990 DiamondBack Apex (before cleanup and any modification). I will update photo once it has gone through its transformation.
Last edited by BigSung; 02-15-16 at 05:37 PM.
02-15-16, 05:39 AM
#4721
Senior Member
Posted on the Moulton page yesterday, love this!
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02-16-16, 09:49 AM
#4722
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Bikes: Brompton H6, Schwinn Mirada, Cruzbike Sofrider. Used to own: ICE B1, 2 F-frame Moultons, Koga Myata Elevation 5000 mtb, Challenge Hurricane, Riese & Mueller Birdy Silver, Actionbent Tidalwave 3
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Not exactly a vintage MTB conversion, but I love it anyway! I used to have a Moulton F-type Deluxe 4-speed, it was a great city bike and surprisingly not a bad light tourer (I know Moultons are great for touring b/c carrying the load low, but just 4 speeds was a limitation). I was occasionally tempted to give mine the racer treatment like that one, but never did...
02-16-16, 10:58 AM
#4723
Junior Member
Here's my too larger 86 850 with drops and stem mounted shifters.
It's a 22" with a stand over of 33" on 26x1.75. I'm awaiting on my new 18" MC 4500 to arrive, and then swap the items over.
It's a 22" with a stand over of 33" on 26x1.75. I'm awaiting on my new 18" MC 4500 to arrive, and then swap the items over.
02-16-16, 12:25 PM
#4724
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Chain and chainrings are new, the cassette is not. However, I examined the cassette pretty closely after I cleaned it, and it looked okay. I think I have a new spare that I was reserving for another bike. I'll put it on today and go for another ride and see what happens.
The hanger is visually straight, and no reason to think it ever got bent. I've had the bike since it was new.
I think the rear indexing is fine, no tell-tale chain rattling of a misaligned derailleur.
And yes, it only happened in higher gears when I was really hammering on it. Nothing in the lower gears.
The hanger is visually straight, and no reason to think it ever got bent. I've had the bike since it was new.
I think the rear indexing is fine, no tell-tale chain rattling of a misaligned derailleur.
And yes, it only happened in higher gears when I was really hammering on it. Nothing in the lower gears.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
02-16-16, 01:08 PM
#4725
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