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Old 11-09-22, 01:50 PM
  #126  
stardognine
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Originally Posted by xiaoman1
I am reconsidering......

As long is it's Safe....Do what works for you....if you choose to.
You have to be careful there. We might not need no steenking badges, but most of us WANT headbadges. Si, senor? 🙃😁😉
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Old 11-09-22, 02:07 PM
  #127  
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Hi-viz anything, unless it's clearly an 80s reference.
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Old 11-09-22, 02:25 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Bianchi84
Bars taped bottom to top
some dingus wrote this in a Craigslist ad* :



* ok, it was me.
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Old 11-09-22, 03:43 PM
  #129  
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I resisted, but oh, what the hell.

Bicycle Specialization Syndrome, or BSS. It's a collection of bs beliefs I see circulate. Examples:

-Bicycles require special lubricants. No, they don't. It's a freaking bicycle.
-Big box bikes can't be repaired and will fall apart. Always uttered by bike "mechanics" and always followed by the reasoning (if you can call it that) that they are assembled poorly and use crappy components. Both of those things may be true, but are fixable and can be taught to the average twelve-year-old. "Oh, the welds are crappy." Ever seen the brazing on a Raleigh from the '70s? Welds can be fixed, too, which could be easily done by just about any real mechanic. Google search "cracked titanium frame." Did all those people get what they paid for? I have a Chinese Next here that was ridden hard and chucked to the curb, and it is welded nicer than my '73 Super Course's brazing. It didn't break! Lots of bikes fall apart, even the expensive ones. Certain Trek seat stays and forks, Ultegra Hollowtech cranks, Campagnolo cranks, and many, many others.
-Good steel bikes are only made from 4130 Cro-moly, 531, Colombus, etc. Right. That high end tube set really made all the difference in getting any non-competitive rider anywhere ever. Never mind frame geometry, wheel/tire choice, bars/saddle, gearing, etc. Right. Any good frame builder could totally make a fool out of the connoisseurs of ferrousness, most of whom don't actually know anything about steel.
-Bicycles always need special bikey tools. Sure, some things do require special tools - crank pullers, cassette/freewheel tools, cone wrenches, and the like. But mostly, ordinary socket sets, combo wrenches, hex keys are vastly superior to the sea of cheap, flimsy, stamped sheet metal "tools" marketed to bike customers.
-Throw in any other nonsense about needing at least 105 to be "serious", or SPD this or that, etc. "I'm a serious cyclist. The name on my crankset/downtube/helmet/billboard says so!"
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Old 11-09-22, 05:37 PM
  #130  
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Bottle cage clamps placed on top of decals. I always find a way around this!

Noisy under-saddle bags, clanging tools or whatever.
Bags that hang by the stitching that attaches the straps, instead of having the straps go up between the saddle rails and then out to encircle the bag.

Jagwire's over-length, loud-looking ferrules, accentuating their crooked exit from a loose-fitting housing stop and forcing sharper bend in the housing.

Levers set too low on the bars (bars usually tipped up to compensate, or not).

High-friction cabling used with high-effort derailers, think Varsity. The uncomfortable saddle and thinner, vinyl-wrapped (7/8") steel bar add to the need for immediate modifications. Yeah, I got carried away.

Age-hardened cable housing vinyl that tinks and clacks against frame tubing, bars/stem or even adjacent cabling.

Axles that are driveside-spaced too long for the freewheel's width, leaves the axle unsupported and never helps the chainline.

Overly-long bottom bracket spindles.

Saddles tilted or slammed rearward.
Leather saddles that look like they've sagged too far.

Indexed downtube levers. I honestly prefer friction unless we're talking integrated shifters and Hyperglide.

Salmon-colored brake pads, only because black compounds grip better. (I rarely ride in the rain, and the pink pads are only a little better then).

Group riders who show up wearing bulky clothing that obscures a trailing rider's vision.

Riders who never check the condition of their road pedal's plastic cleats or the bolt tension. Accidents waiting to happen.

Having to use the wrong hoods on Shimano AX-era levers.

Difficulties servicing older Phil hubs (luckily not needed often).

STI cables left to rub through unprotected headtube paint.

Regarding marble bar tapes, it looks absolutely great on certain bikes, like the black/yellow on my (black) 1995 Mondonico-built Masi, or the red/orange on my 2005 Litespeed Siena.
The multi-color "marble" tapes however, were nicknamed "clown vomit" for a reason I guess.

When a stem's bar-clamp bolt breaks while merely loosening it (after noticing that the bars had suddenly started creaking). Uneasy feeling from that encounter.

When a Vintage Bianchi's frame turns out to have 5mm holes drilled into it's butted seat tube, hidden by bottle cage. This and the above both on the same bike!

Last edited by dddd; 11-09-22 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 11-12-22, 08:30 AM
  #131  
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When people pick a frameset clean they selling like a thanksgiving turkey!

Why do people remove a headset, especially something like just an Ofmega, Tange, 105, or any really, from a frame they are selling? Same goes with the seatpost binder and dropout adjusters

On my recent purchase I specified I wanted the headset so didn’t have to hassle with finding one the correct size, and it appeared to a basic no frills black one anyway. well the shop that did a lousy job of packing the frame removed the fork (why I don’t know it wasn’t like they then cut the box smaller) but didn’t put the bearings in the box!

They also took off the seatpost binder bolt, now I need to scrounge one of those.

thankfully they left the dropout adjusters. I don’t know though if they were left behind because they were bent and couldn’t be easily removed or if they got bent in shipping.
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Old 11-12-22, 11:56 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
When people pick a frameset clean they selling like a thanksgiving turkey!

Why do people remove a headset, especially something like just an Ofmega, Tange, 105, or any really, from a frame they are selling? Same goes with the seatpost binder and dropout adjusters

On my recent purchase I specified I wanted the headset so didn’t have to hassle with finding one the correct size, and it appeared to a basic no frills black one anyway. well the shop that did a lousy job of packing the frame removed the fork (why I don’t know it wasn’t like they then cut the box smaller) but didn’t put the bearings in the box!

They also took off the seatpost binder bolt, now I need to scrounge one of those.

thankfully they left the dropout adjusters. I don’t know though if they were left behind because they were bent and couldn’t be easily removed or if they got bent in shipping.
Preach it sister!
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Old 11-12-22, 02:27 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
When people pick a frameset clean they selling like a thanksgiving turkey!

Why do people remove a headset, especially something like just an Ofmega, Tange, 105, or any really, from a frame they are selling? Same goes with the seatpost binder and dropout adjusters

On my recent purchase I specified I wanted the headset so didn’t have to hassle with finding one the correct size, and it appeared to a basic no frills black one anyway. well the shop that did a lousy job of packing the frame removed the fork (why I don’t know it wasn’t like they then cut the box smaller) but didn’t put the bearings in the box!

They also took off the seatpost binder bolt, now I need to scrounge one of those.

thankfully they left the dropout adjusters. I don’t know though if they were left behind because they were bent and couldn’t be easily removed or if they got bent in shipping.
I have to stop myself from doing this. It's compulsive behavior. I think I would disassemble everything in a room i'm left alone in if i had slightly less self control.
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Old 11-12-22, 05:02 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Soody
I have to stop myself from doing this. It's compulsive behavior. I think I would disassemble everything in a room i'm left alone in if i had slightly less self control.
Thats called Tweaking and it’s a whole different issue. LOL.
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Old 11-13-22, 11:15 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
Thats called Tweaking and it’s a whole different issue. LOL.
I ain't touchin' that one. 😁😉

Why do some companies still put bottle cage braze-ons right where the front derailleur has to go? 🤔

Are they "trying" to upset me? 😵🙄😉

Obviously, you can just use those thick washers, but why not just mount the braze-ons 6" higher? 🙃
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Old 11-13-22, 11:27 AM
  #136  
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I hate bicycles. Every. SIngle. Part. Of. Them. I hate the wheels, the derailleurs, the cranks...all of it. The older they are, the worse they are. I especially hate bicycles that look like they were actually ridden.

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Old 11-13-22, 11:38 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by stardognine
I ain't touchin' that one. 😁😉

Why do some companies still put bottle cage braze-ons right where the front derailleur has to go? 🤔

Are they "trying" to upset me? 😵🙄😉

Obviously, you can just use those thick washers, but why not just mount the braze-ons 6" higher? 🙃
“Aesthetics Mr Douglas…. aes·thet·ics. They do it thataway soes it looks nice”.


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Old 11-13-22, 06:43 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by dddd
Indexed downtube levers. I honestly prefer friction unless we're talking integrated shifters and Hyperglide.
I know it's not C&V gospel, but I really like my indexed Campy 8 speed downtube shifters.

Originally Posted by dddd
Salmon-colored brake pads, only because black compounds grip better. (I rarely ride in the rain, and the pink pads are only a little better then).
I can't do salmon on aesthetic grounds. Delicious, though.

Originally Posted by dddd
STI cables left to rub through unprotected headtube paint.
Right lever to left stop, left lever to right stop, cross cables under downtube. (Under BB cabling only.)
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Old 11-13-22, 10:48 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by styggno1
Continued









WRT to being able to see the hub marking through the valve stem hole, this seems . exactly opposite of what I think would look best! If the valve stem naturally descends to the lowest point, then shouldn’t the hub marking be visible on the top of the hub? This standard causes the hub marking to be unreadable when the valve stem reaches its lowest position.
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Old 11-14-22, 12:47 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by p!n20
i know it's not c&v gospel, but i really like my indexed campy 8 speed downtube shifters....
me too!
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Old 11-14-22, 10:06 AM
  #141  
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I always seem to see oversized older road bikes where the SR LaPrade seatpost is "slammed" so low that it is messing up the seat clamping cluster.
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Old 11-14-22, 10:27 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by dddd
Salmon-colored brake pads, only because black compounds grip better. (I rarely ride in the rain, and the pink pads are only a little better then).
I've been sold on salmon pads ever since I moved to the PNW (where, of course, we get a bit more rain than you do). But they do seem to wear out faster. Just before starting out on our recent Neal Lerner tour of the PNW I put in new salmon pads. 4 days later they were pretty worn, I swapped them out at a bike shop with black ones. We didn't have rain the last 2 days to test them, but in dry weather they work just fine, and to my memory, last longer. This make sense, as black pads have carbon black in them, which is the typical tire additive to improve wear.
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Old 11-14-22, 10:38 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by P!N20

I can't do salmon on aesthetic grounds. Delicious, though.

Oh man, I grabbed a container of smoked salmon dip a couple nights ago, that just blew my mind. Made by little short Japanese ladies, so who knows what kinda magic they did on it. 🤔😋👍
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Old 11-14-22, 10:39 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by gugie
I've been sold on salmon pads ever since I moved to the PNW (where, of course, we get a bit more rain than you do). But they do seem to wear out faster. Just before starting out on our recent Neal Lerner tour of the PNW I put in new salmon pads. 4 days later they were pretty worn, I swapped them out at a bike shop with black ones. We didn't have rain the last 2 days to test them, but in dry weather they work just fine, and to my memory, last longer. This make sense, as black pads have carbon black in them, which is the typical tire additive to improve wear.
I tried the Kool Stop salmon Shimano inserts but did not understand the "wings" on the back. I could never get them adjusted to my satisfaction and found that the wear was exceptionally fast. For where I ride the hills in the rain in SW Ohio, I could go through 2 sets of these per year.
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Old 11-14-22, 10:46 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
“Aesthetics Mr Douglas…. aes·thet·ics. They do it thataway soes it looks nice”.


Mr. Douglas: "Oh, for the love of....Haney, get that truck out of here." 😁😉
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Old 11-14-22, 11:51 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by elcraft
This standard causes the hub marking to be unreadable when the valve stem reaches its lowest position.
The markings on my Velox rim tape are unreadable unless I have the tire off. But I make it readable from the drive side anyway.
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Old 11-17-22, 09:25 PM
  #147  
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I fixed a flat tonight on the bike I hope to ride tomorrow and after airing it up, I noticed that the label isn't aligned with the valve stem. I'm only slightly peeved though. A bourbon neat should fix that. The peeving that is, not the label.
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Old 11-17-22, 09:52 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by tendency
You mean ... like this? muahahaha:




EXQUISITELY drilled (and steerer tube extended) by the one and only Paul Brodie. Mmmmmm .. tasty.
That's the other thing I don't like to see in a track fork - a sloped crown My other pet peeve is PINK!
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Old 11-17-22, 10:08 PM
  #149  
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I was trained to set bikes up the way Italian racers did. My boss was persnickety. So am I by nature, and I try to beat back that tendency.

A couple of years ago, I was setting up a bike for myself, and my intuition told me to rotate the bars back a bit. OK, a bit better. Then I tipped them back a bit more, and oh my goodness, I'm in heaven, why did it take me so long? It looks bad and feels good. I'm leaving it this way.
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Old 11-18-22, 12:33 AM
  #150  
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that steel wire stuck in your foot

blunt cable cutters that worked yesterday but decided to shred my new cable today. Inevitably when I've been working where I shouldn't and even a magnet
wont pick up all those little pieces of steel wire. Bring on the spotlight, tweezers and duct-tape as the nearly invisible wire is stuck in my foot.
Not my peeve, using the kitchen as a workshop,
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